CanTechZ

Outstanding work, your attention to detail is inspiring. Truly a great reference for us all. If only we could get your old thread back as well.

I finally got around to painting my TL finisher panels and license plate light, here's how it turned out. I'm quite pleased with the results. Here is a pic comparing the new color to an unrestored original hubcap: And one comparing the same hubcap with my unrestored original grill and a license plate light body painted in the new color:

Here's a pic from the image gallery taken a number of years ago. It's a 7'70 car and is a bit unique in that it is a Canadian non-emissions model. Good luck in your search. Mike

Looks very nice, this is one of the things on my to do list. How does the plating on the inner surfaces look, did you need to add any other protection there? Also are the rubbers strips new? If so where did you get them? Mine are getting quite dried out and cracked.

Here is a discussion about "series 1" unique parts that you might find interesting: Also try searching "series 1 (or one) differences" or "series 1 vs 2"

Looking at the range of S30 chassis numbers mentioned by @HS30-H in post 20, it looks like at least five times more HLS30's (240z's) were built in 1970. Seems to me that would be somewhat rare everywhere, especially considering there were more S30 model variations as compared to the models available in North America.

Wasn't TOPY the wheel manufacturer used by Nissan? I do agree that that it makes sense that Nissan would have planned to use the same color for grill, TL panel and hubcaps but I do believe some variation did occur. Differing sub mfger's is one possible reason, as you have mentioned, also the way the grill reflects light could just be making the color appear lighter. If I had to paint my grill I would use the same color as the hubcaps.

Here is an old thread with a "spirited" discussion on the subject of grill vs tail light panel vs hubcap colors. No clear consensus but interesting none the less. I am still working on stripping the old paint from my T.L. panel as well as polishing some scratches out of the stainless trim, and I like the look of the hubcap color so that is what I am matching to. However I am of the opinion that the grill is a similar but lighter grey, when I get my car out of the garage and into some better light I will look at this again to re-evaluate my opinion. FWIW Mike

Its always interesting hearing about what has happened to our cars over their long history. Does your 1970 engine still have an E31 head like it originally would have come with? Here is an interesting thread on the subject of early engine numbers:

you're welcome. I will share some pics after I do the actual re-paint. I hope it looks as good as yours.

Just getting ready to re-paint the tail light finisher on my 7'70 that is currently satin black and I found a very close matching Dupli-Color paint that is not a metallic finish, It is a Ford color called Dark Shadow Gray. In Canada it is Dupli-Clor number CBFM0360. For a test I did a partial paint to the inside of a tail light finisher half from my 12/70 parts car that was the original grey. I also did a test on a old license plate light body. I used two coats of paint and two coats of the Dupli-Color matte clear. Here are the results comparing to one of my un-restored original hubcaps that are only brought out for shows. Here is a close up showing the new paint at the top and the original paint at the bottom, I'm quite happy with the results. The paint not being metallic makes the job much more forgiving. And here is the license plate light body with new paint compared to the un-restored hub cap:

Sold for $10,850 A good deal for both buyer and seller.

@240zfabville my post may not have been the most helpful here but my intent was sincere in that search is your friend and we try to promote it as the first thing a new user does. A lot of new users just come and go after expecting others to do their leg work with out even the courtesy to reply back after being given help and those who plan to do a quick flip are usually in that group. I don't consider myself an expert but I am definitely an enthusiast bordering on fanatic, LOL. Here's hoping you might become one to. I can offer this advice from an owner of a Canadian car, most Canadian cars got heavy tar like undercoating that can separate from the underbody trapping water causing rust that is not visible, the same inside the car where moisture is trapped under the sound deadening tar mats over the floors, trans tunnel and rear deck/spare tire area. Be sure to get and awl or ice pick to check for soft spots and look for bubbling up of the tar mats. Check the doubler on the frame rails at the front cross member. If you see dents in the floor or frame rails this is usually where the undercoating separates from the metal, so check those areas closely. Being tarped for so long condensation may be a problem, if it smells musty inside you will know. Also check for rust around the seat mtg brackets and in the floor seam behind the seats. Good Luck Mike

Try using the search feature for S30 value, rust issues, inspection, etc. You mention that you likely plan to flip the car so I suggest you put in some effort yourself instead of looking for instant answers from others. If you have put in an effort searching you should state that and you might get more help.

This page on Zhome has a more complete registry: http://www.zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/classic.htm I would say yours is a 1/72

Here is a very nice example of an '82 280ZX Turbo on BAT: http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1982-datsun-280zx-turbo/ Even being an automatic I like it, especially the color.

Anyone else notice the error in the FSM for the Mark "A" Distance piece, could potentially be a very tight fit between the bearings.

The steel fan was used up to July/71 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/water-pump-fan My 7/70 had the steel fan and I had exactly the same problem as Dennis in the early 80's. I now have a plastic fan from a 280.

I had no idea that brace was not always part of the original design, but apparently it was not by this picture of #00051. I found it in the flickr album pointed to in this BaT link: http://bringatrailer.com/2013/11/21/bat-exclusive-the-18th-earliest-surviving-datsun-240z/ @Gav240z shared this link in post #13 of this topic. My 7/70, car 06521, does have those braces, I wonder when they were added?

This picture of Z's at port looks like the same slate/charcoal grey for both the tail light finisher and the license plate lamp when you zoom in, I also agree that they look best being the same color. Here is the full picture, I don't remember who first posted it but thanks to whoever it was.

I decided to take my rear license plate for cleaning after reading your topic (and because I have been planning to) and I found something interesting. My license plate light has only one "metal shade", on the left side, and that side is noticeably more deformed from heat build-up than the right side. I think your theory about heat build-up is correct. Here are a few pictures of mine:

Here is a picture of what mine looks like and a cropped image from the parts manual. The outer lug on the end of the clamp is actually deformed to locate the end of the sheath and the lug that is in line with the screw is the one that clamps the sheath, I'm not sure how much it is crimped as you don't want to crush the sheath to much. Make sure the cable is clean and lubricated while you have it apart.

I would recommend downloading the '73 240 and '74 260 FSM's from our downloads area. Each year more information was added about the hood hinge and latching setup and adjustment, and most of the parts are the same. The same p/n for the hinges was used up to 08/74. As far as the cable issue, are you talking about cable clamp that holds the cable outer sheath or the barrel shaped end that is crimped onto the cable itself, if the latter you probably new a new cable. Here is a link to the parts info for the 240Z hood latch, also a useful resource to compare with parts of later model years when using the later FSM's. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/hood-lock-control