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CanTechZ

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Everything posted by CanTechZ

  1. CanTechZ posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Here's what you could buy in 1979 at my local Datsun dealership, I think I even test drove that pickup. Those Z's sure held their value! .
  2. I think you are measuring to the wrong surface, have you downloaded the 260z FSM for the manuals section in the downloads area? Here is a pic from the FSM showing taking the measurement from the top of the pedal to the toe board surface (carpet & jute not shown would have to be folded back or removed). Don't forget to check for free play as well. HTH Mike
  3. You're welcome, keep up the great work!!
  4. It looks like the original clamps were O-rings. Here are a couple of pictures from the FSM. They are missing on my 7'70 since the boots were replaced 10 years ago, but an old steering rack from a 12'70 parts car I have does have some of them. HTH Mike
  5. CanTechZ replied to Matthew Abate's post in a topic in Build Threads
    Martin does have good products, I've used their industrial machine parts as well and they have a good sense of humor. Here's a page from my old Martin Catalog:
  6. CanTechZ replied to James@TheZStore's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Sounds like a good club fund raising opportunity. I would be in. Anyone have a publishing connection. Cheers Mike
  7. CanTechZ replied to Richard McDonel's post in a topic in Wanted
    You can get pdf versions here, to see the differences. Unfortunately they don't have the '71 owners manual yet. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/ownersmanuals.html
  8. CanTechZ replied to northernz's post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Yes M12 x 1.25 RH is correct. Cheers Mike
  9. CanTechZ replied to Richard McDonel's post in a topic in Wanted
    What year?
  10. CanTechZ replied to James@TheZStore's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Here's a couple shots of mine as well,
  11. Have you removed the amber rocker from your switch by pressing out the roll pin. Then you can clean up the inside of the body so that rocker pivots freely and clean the recess where the spring/pin goes so that the spring also moves freely. My car has the unlit switch and I took mine apart for cleaning when it froze up but unfortunately the tip of the pin was broken off where the it goes inside the spring. For reference here are a couple pics of mine. I'm not sure if the roll pin comes out the same on your lit switch.
  12. Here is an old picture I found in the Gallery that describes a fix and shows what the switch looks like inside, http://www.classiczcars.com/gallery/image/10699-inside-the-defrost-switch/ HTH Mike Edit> Sorry, I just realized that this picture is actually a '72 switch.
  13. CanTechZ replied to hatepotholez's post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Here you go
  14. CanTechZ replied to grannyknot's post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Bad Dog has these rear frame rails/connectors, not sure if this was what John was referring to: http://baddogparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2 These are for a 240Z not sure about what they have for a 280.
  15. I just noticed this in the Datsun classifieds, if you are still looking: http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/auto-parts/240z-e41-quot-euro-quot-jdm-balance-tube-carburetors-250.00-240k-240z-260z-280z-280zx-4566.html It came up in recent ads but I have no idea how old the ad is. HTH Mike
  16. This afternoon I received the .055 wire (both SS, p/n 9495K91 and carbon steel, p/n 9666K68) that I ordered from McMaster-Carr. Both wire types look to me like they will do the job and measured very close to 0.055" by micrometer. Both wires seem to have about the same spring back capability. That comment is a bit subjective as I just tried to feel the amount of effort it took to bend the wire until it would not flex back to its original state. When I compared the bending effort to do the same test on the original choke wire from my car, it took less effort to bend the wire to the point it would not flex back. I would say that the original choke cable wire has a lower ultimate tensile strength that either of the new wires. Hopefully on the weekend I will be able to test both of the new wire types in my car. FYI, For other Canadians trying to order from McMaster-Carr, don't bother unless you can order through a company or they will cancel your order. I first set up a web account with them and they sent me the message the next morning: "Due to the complexity of U.S. export regulations, McMaster-Carr accepts international orders only from businesses. This decision also applies to orders shipping within the United States, because it is based on the final destination of the items. We cannot accept this order or future orders." Luckily with one phone call I was able to add my company name to my web account and then I could place my order. All in all the service was good and I will use them in the future. Mike
  17. I have just placed an order with McMaster Carr for both the SS wire and phosphate coated carbon steel wire above. I will report back with my observations of both products after I receive them.
  18. Here's another idea for choke cable wire if you are worried about corrosion: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9495k91/=11m0s0p It has a little lower tensile strength than A228 music wire but it still looks to have good properties and a good price. McMaster-Carr also has Hi-tensile steel music, Here are the specs for comparison to the SS wire above: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9666k68/=11m0vpx This wire does have a phosphate coating which would give a small amount of corrosion resistance and help decrease friction inside the outer cable sheath.
  19. Dave, thanks for link above. It was very timely as I was just looking for replacement wire for my series 1 choke. About ten years ago I bought a new cable from a local Nissan dealer and all I could get was the choke cable for a '72 car (P/N 18410-E8803). At the time I did not know much about the differences between model years, the new cable is about 2.5" shorter than my original one. I was able to get it installed but the bend in the cable coming from the termination at the top of the carbs is now quite tight and it takes a fair amount of effort to use the choke lever and I have been afraid I might break the fragile plastic knob. I don't want to push my luck so I have been thinking about putting new wire in the old cable sheaths which luckily I kept. Thanks again and hopefully soon I will have a slightly used 18410-E8803 for sale. Mike
  20. Bike cables are braided wire and wouldn't work well in this application as it has to push as well as pull
  21. I bet this guy wears driving gloves.
  22. The subject of distributors for the early 240z's does get a bit confusing, I don't have your answer but here is some more background info from a thread in 2009: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/31224-correct-early-series-1-distributor/?do=findComment&comment=278184 Here are parts book pages for the early version of D612-52 (part No. 22100-E4601) the later version of D612-52 (part No. 22100-E4603) the parts book makes no mention of D606-52, unlike the FSM. I noticed that the later parts page notes "Set-Spring" whereas the early parts page does not. FWIW, Mike
  23. CanTechZ replied to rexz's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I have a full one piece steel shroud on my 7'70 that I ordered from my local Datsun dealer in 1979, it is part number 21475-E4100 and cost $68.35. Too bad we it wasn't that easy today. Mike Strange that the parts book for the US and Canada doesn't indicate that the shroud is optional for the 240Z, but it does for the 260Z?

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