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CanTechZ

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Everything posted by CanTechZ

  1. Well then it looks like a trip to the hardware store is in order, as previously was stated If you purchase a reproduction part you can't assume that the four screws that join the two halves will be exactly the same as oem. This older topic, that you have recently posted on, has a very good description on the other two screws, see post #4 by george71z. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40203-needed-installation-hardware-specs-for-240z-steering-column-cover-clamshell/ I see you were looking for a picture of the screws. We all know a picture is worth a thousand words, but in this case I think George's description is more than enough. For me solving some of these small issues myself is one of the joys of owning a classic car.
  2. Look closer on the MSA site, the description says that the screws are included. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08d22/40-3125A Problem solved.
  3. Aston Martin DBS V8 1969 - 1972
  4. Here are a couple of pics showing some yellow paint marks that were revealed as I was doing some cleaning under my 7/70 last winter. The marks on the mustache bar were very randomly applied. The cross member at the front of the diff also has some yellow paint marks, I will try to get a better picture next time the car is up on jack stands. Mike
  5. CanTechZ posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    I think that the Black Dragon SN data came from the Nissan Parts micro fiche, mine is dated 1979. The Nissan document also shows the same problem with the with 1970 SN's, likely the May '70 date was an error and should have read Dec '70. Here is the micro fiche page showing the issue. Mike
  6. CanTechZ posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    If you accidentally make a new duplicate topic you can go back in re-name the topic with the editing tools. I have edited the title of a topic when I made a spelling mistake. Maybe re-name it something like: "Oops Double Post - Do Not Reply".
  7. CanTechZ posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Battery hold down bracket screw, I believe
  8. CanTechZ posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Hey Bart, here is a higher res pdf file of the chassis dimension from my 1972 FSM. Good luck with the repairs. Mike 240Z Chassis Dimensions - Source 1972 FSM Dated 10SEP71.pdf
  9. CanTechZ posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Are you looking for the FSM chassis drawing like the one in post 3 of this thread? http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/33933-chassis-and-body-dimensions-for-us-240z-available/?hl=%2Bchassis+%2Bdimensions If need a higher resolution drawing PM me and I could do a high res scan from my printed FSM and send it to you Mike
  10. While searching for something else I found this 510 FSM: http://datsun510.com/manuals/Service_Manual_510_1600_1973.pdf They have a lot of old Datsun content, beware some files are very large: http://datsun510.com/manuals/
  11. CanTechZ posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I just looked at mine, and it has only one washer between the spring and the clevis. I just noticed that the picture you posted has dual points, my setup is original with single points. I have no idea if this makes a difference.
  12. I measured M3 on mine. I think the pitch is 0.5mm, it's hard to get a thread pitch gage under there. Have you tried chasing the threads? Mike
  13. CanTechZ posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    At the machine shop I previously worked for, we used Precision Twist Drill (PTD) and Dormer among others. Try checking the sales flyer at KBC tools for deals. Be aware that we found the KBC house brand drills were quite low quality, you get what you pay for. http://www.kbctools.ca/products/CUTTING%20TOOLS/DRILLS/JOBBERS%20DRILLS/JOBBERS%20DRILL%20SETS.aspx HTH Mike
  14. Here's one with the mother, so proud.
  15. CanTechZ posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Clips and Fasteners has quite a good selection of re-useable push type retainers for many hole sizes including 1/4" with various head sizes. Maybe one might work. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Push_Type_Retainers_At_Clipsandfasteners_com_s/154.htm HTH Mike Looking more closely the 1/4" hole size retainers likely won't work, My thinking was that the two prong retainers might go into a 5mm hole. After another search I did find these: http://www.lawsonproducts.ca/Nissan/Body-Hardware/Automotive/AT100100.lpc Set search parameter to 5mm hole size.
  16. You're welcome. To bad about the missing info on the glass, I didn't see it either. I think that the sedan and wagon both used the same instrument panel, so this might be what you are looking for: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun510/Datsun510Index/Electrical/InstrumentMeter/FromOct69/tabid/561/Default.aspx
  17. Here you go.... http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun510/Datsun510Index.aspx Good luck with the 510 Here's another great 510 resource: http://www.the510realm.com/ Cheers Mike
  18. Excellent write up, also wondering if you could use the rocker arm pin from an F10 pump to replace a worn pin on a 240Z pump? Mine has started to leak oil in that area.
  19. Nice work so far, glad to hear you are close to the milestone of starting your car. In looking at your engine pictures I might be wrong but it looks like your sparkplug wires might be OEM originals, can you read the Yazaki manufacturer's name and the matching year of manufacture on them? If so they might be quite rare.
  20. Did you try downloading the pdf attachment in post 27. It still worked when I just tried. HTH Mike
  21. Just wondering where the 104 octane number for an E31 head came from. Here is a discussion from last year about this subject: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49259-best-octane-for-e31-head/?hl=%26quot%3Boctane+rating%26quot%3B#entry448124
  22. Nice subtle change, I like the new stance. Mine sits about 1/2" lower in the rear when measuring the distance from ground up to the underside of the fender lip at center. With this set up the body line near your body side molding is quite parallel with the ground.
  23. Careful scraping of the undercoating to expose most of the back and the retaining studs, both broke off when trying to undo the rusted nuts even after multiple applications of penetrating oil. After removing the turn signals, more careful scraping of the hard undercoating with various small scrapers and picks. Then I cleaned off the residue with Dupli-Color wax & grease remover followed by a wash/rinse with soap and water. A light sanding was required for some stubborn areas.
  24. Just finished refreshing my front turn signals. The LH one was totally hidden by undercoating on the inside. Before: After:
  25. Or This.... Here it is on "How It's Made Dream Cars"

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