CanTechZ

I have been looking for some touch-up paint to use in the engine bay of my 918 orange '70 240z and I found a company called ColorRite that supplies touch-up paint in aerosols, half pints and pens in a few of our colors. Here is a link to their site and a link to an amazon example: http://www.expresspaint.com/automotivetouchup/pc/viewPrd.asp?idProduct=17516&idCategory=24&resetSess=Y#details http://www.amazon.com/ColorRite-Aerosol-Nissan-Automotive-Touch-up/dp/B00GVOBDIM/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Nissan|67&Model=240Z|2284&Year=1970|1970&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive Anyone have any experience with this company and if so how would you rate their products. If you know of other touch-paint suppliers for our old paint codes please add to this thread with supplier names and reviews if possible. Mike

Thanks Jim, and nice work on your horn resto. How does the original color of your horns compare to the olive green seat rail color? The dates on my horns are also very close to the car build date, it seems they were very good at the "just in time" manufacturing method for parts procurement.

That was my thought also. Too bad they didn't make a commercial like this with a 280Z and an 810, especially as they were the predecessor to the Maxima,

Just found this '77 810 time capsule on Craigslist. It has the original fuel injected L24 engine and the seller claims only 28,000 miles. Here's the link to the ad: http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/pml/cto/5007735139.html

Good score.

I recently removed my horns to remove some overspray and noticed a few things. Firstly they are the olive drab color, which I was expecting as this a 1970 car. Here's a pic during the cleaning process. When I started to wire brush the backs of the horns I noticed that the decibel rating was 110dB, not the 115dB rating I have seen in pictures. Here are pictures of the backs. I have read posts talking about later horns being black in color and I was wondering if this was when the change to 115dB was made. I have a horn from a 12/70 parts car that has a horn date code of T11 (1970 November) and it has a rating of 115dB, this horn has so much paint on it I can't tell what the original color was. My low tone 110dB horn has a date code of T6 (1970 June) and my high tone 110dB horn has a date code of T7 (1970 July). I hope I am interpreting the date codes correctly. Here is a link to a thread I found with some good background info: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/29367-media-blasting-resurrection-of-the-horns/?hl=%26quot%3Bhorn+color%26quot%3B#entry260401 Any thoughts? Mike

Thanks, not a perfect job but better than when I started. And yes the plug end is for a block heater, it really came in handy during winters when this was my daily driver back in the 80's.

For a long time I've been planning to spruce up area in front of the rad in my car as it has been neglected for a long time. So today was the day, mainly old grime and overspray from a 35 year old re paint. The horns and wiring harness cleaned up OK. Before.... And after....

This same car just sold on Ebay, on the 19th..... or did it? http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51319-the-best-represented-datsun-on-ebay/

Here is a great topic on our site that I often refer to: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/32197-1970-z-refreshbiting-the-bullet/page-1?hl

I just happened to find this auction item in Japan, sorry it appears to be black. http://japamart.com/auctoolitem.php?url=http://ord.yahoo.co.jp/o/auction/_ylt=A3Jvdl7kEDFV1BcAwSZAPDh8;_ylu=X3oDMTBhNmMwMjNqBHZ0aWQDQVMwMDQ-/SIG=12bf5b3na/EXP=1429365348/**http%3a//page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f152582347

Or as the seller claims.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-GT-Coupe-/331528299490 Check out his other auctions, he seems to have a common element in his marketing strategy.

http://www.classiccarmotoroil.com/index.html I've never tried these products so I can't endorse them, sorry I could not fit a site with "zero hype"

Two more days left and it's up to $17,500

No worries, the only reason I even noticed was that I had to replace my brake MC last year and the series one MC was about three times the price of the later ones. The good thing was that I did get an OEM one from my Nissan parts guy.

Looking good, this is on my to do list as well.

I definitely agree on the "Very nice" but the brake reservoirs look correctly placed to me for a series one car. And Mark, enjoy the cross Canada drive, please keep the pics coming

Where do you plan to route the hose for that vent to prevent fuel from sloshing out during aggressive cornering? Just curious.

Another hint....

Here's a hint, this small part has been discussed in recent posts in another topic.

Just to add some more background info, here are few pictures of the fuel vapor venting system in my non emissions car as it came from the factory without the vapor recover tank, it doesn't get much simpler than this. Also look at what I happened to find in the second picture, below the red arrow.

Have you tried using search for help with this? If it helps I just did, does this look familiar... http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49287-damper-oil-for-hitachi-su-twin-carbs/?hl=damper

Over the years all of the original Nissan fabric braided hoses I have seen look to me more greyish in color than black. Lighting conditions make quite a difference in the shade of grey in my opinion. The outer cross hatched fabric strands look to me like a lighter grey than the under laying fabric, but this could just be the way they reflect light. If you do proceed with dying hoses I would be in interested in seeing the results. This picture is of a new unused hose taken outside in direct sunlight.

I purchased the car in 1978 and the engine has never been pulled since then, I am quite sure that the PO hadn't either. I had an "in car" re-build done on the engine shortly after buying it and the oil pan was dropped but the same one was replaced. There is also some blue paint overspray on the engine mounts, a little less than in the picture from 26th-Z. No painting was done at the time of the re-build. The car has 145,000 miles and is still running strong on the original main bearings.

For the last couple of years I have been using a Meguiar's water magnet microfiber drying towel after washing my cars, http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/x2000-water-magnetreg-microfiber-drying-towel/ To help minimize micro-scratches don't use a circular motion when drying, just lay the towel out flat on the surface and lightly drag it back over the surface. I also found it helps to do your final rinse of the car with out a spray nozzle on the hose and simply point the hose point straight up and let the water cascade down in a sheet over the whole surface of the car. This helps minimize the surface tension in the water allowing it to drain quickly without beads, minimizing water spots when drying. On my black Audi this has worked very well. HTH Mike Also the microfiber towels are washable, but should be washed in a separate load with no fabric softener. Residue from fabric softener will cause micro-scratches.