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CanTechZ

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Everything posted by CanTechZ

  1. CanTechZ replied to HuD 91gt's post in a topic in Suspension & Steering
    Are you positive that the rack is the problem, is there any play in the u-joint at the rack end of your lower steering rod? Even a small amount of play in that u-joint can add significant play in your steering. I replaced my lower steering rod c/w u-joint with good used parts and it made a huge difference. Mike
  2. I did a little more digging in my old parts invoices and it looks like the CMC P/N 30610-Y4401 might be from one of my 510's. However I do have an invoice from 1979 where I had the local Datsun dealer replace my CMC with P/N 30610-N4001, IIRC that was the only time it was changed. Sorry for the confusion.
  3. My CMC was replaced in 1983 with a center reservoir style, the dealer invoice shows P/N 30610-Y4401. I'm not sure why there is a "Y" in the part number? It's a Nabco and the overall length of the alum. body measures 4.5". Here's a pic showing the clearance with the WS washer reservoir. The clearance between the end of the CMC alum. body and the WS washer reservoir is almost 3/8". HTH Mike
  4. CanTechZ replied to sinnersahuayo's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Looks like you've got a good project, good luck and enjoy the process. If your car has dealer applied undercoating, which a lot of northwest cars did, do yourself a favor and do a very close inspection of the critical areas in the frame rails and shock towers as well as the floors. I found a small issue on mine in the area of the support plate on the lower front frame rail where the front suspension cross member bolts on when I scraped off the 44 year old undercoating recently. It's all fixable but definitely better to know about in advance. Mike
  5. I've been working on removing the 44 year old undercoating, it was nice to find original paint. Also decided to try using magnetic tools to check for and fish out loose rust in the frame rails through the existing drain holes. Here's what I found.
  6. Sorry about that, good luck on your search on an NOS part, maybe you will get lucky. I did a quick search and saw this on ebay, no idea if this is a good vendor: Vintage Nissan Oil Pressure Sender Part Number 25070 89910 | eBay Sorry, just noticed it was an old auction, but at least they do come up, cheers.
  7. I replaced my series I oil sending unit PN 25070-89910 in 1979 with the correct 10 KG OEM switch and it stills seems to read OK on the 140 psi gauge. Attached is a parts page showing different PN's for the 10 KG and 6 KG units. Is there a date on shop instructions sheet that you have? Sorry I don't have any specs for the 10 KG sender. Mike
  8. CanTechZ replied to 240dkw's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Dan, Not sure if you are still looking for info on this, but here is a picture of the original emissions sticker on my car, as we discussed earlier they are both Canadian non-emissions cars and very close in S/N. I am quite confident that this is the original sticker as the underside of the hood has never been repainted. It's strange that the sticker mentions an air pump but my car definitely didn't have one. HTH Mike
  9. FYI, the ebay link you have posted comes up NLA.
  10. CanTechZ replied to TomoHawk's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Lot's of great ideas here, but don't forget to add an OEM fan belt to your collection. Like this one that has been in my LH tool box for the last 30+ years. Mike
  11. They did do a Nissan Skyline in season 9, so maybe there's hope. :classic:
  12. CanTechZ replied to northernz's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Great work so far, that color looks awesome. Following your progress is getting me motivated to do the same. Mike
  13. CanTechZ replied to Hardway's post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Perhaps we should be repairing our old cracked parts with 100 mile an hour tape, it's available in plenty of colors as well. Mike
  14. I think this depends on the market that the car was sold into as emissions standards were different in various countries. My 7/70 Series I car is from Canada and has the non emission air box (no cold air flap or heat riser tubr), non emission balance tube etc. but as far as I know most of the US series I cars mfd in 1970 had the emission version of these parts to meet tighter emission standards. Maybe someone more knowledgeable on this subject will chime in if I am not correct.
  15. FYI. The door and quarter window glass is not flat, so they definitely would be different part numbers.
  16. In thinking about this it also explains the backwards etching on the RH side windows. If the same fixture and tooling was used to etch both the LH and RH windows and the fixture was first designed to hold the LH windows so that etching was done on the outside it would read correctly and if the same fixture was used to hold the RH windows then the etching would have to be done on the inside, resulting in reverse lettering when viewed from the outside.
  17. My 7/70 Series I car has this reverse lettering on the passenger side also.
  18. Thanks Dean, we enjoyed meeting you as well. To be honest the skis were only on after we got of the freeway as since the quarter panels were replaced not all of the threaded inserts to mount the lower bracket have been replaced, so I didn't trust one bolt only. In case you haven't noticed there are pics of the show being added on the 510 Realm website, starting on page two: The 510 Realm - View topic - 2014 Vancouver All Nissan Meet; August 10th Mike
  19. Best I can tell the pitch on my M2 screw is 0.4mm Mike
  20. On my series I car the choke handle screw is an M2, the length under the head is 6mm and the head is 4mm diameter by 1.5mm high. It is a Phillips pan head type machine screw, if I have a small enough thread pitch gage I will check the pitch later today. Here is a page from my Spaenaur catalog: Spaenaur Metric Machine Screws.pdf
  21. As a temporary fix you could use a longer M3 screw and slide on a bushing, sized to fit the counterbore in the choke handle, then the bolt head won't have to go into the handle recess. Like making a small shoulder bolt. I probably don't have to warn you about "temporary" fixes.
  22. This should be in the "What did my Zedd do for me today" category. On the way home from an all Nissan show in North Vancouver BC my clock, that has not functioned in at least 20 years, seemed to be working. So my son set it to the correct time, and this morning 16 hours later it still seems to be right. We had a great day and it was the longest drive for this car in many years, even in temps over 30°C+ and up hills the Zedd performed great. Overall it was a relatively small turnout at show but there were nine S30's. Of those 4 were series one, including mine. Here's a few pics from the show. The red car is number 36, notice the lack of defroster lines on the rear glass. Also check out the back of the yacht.
  23. I'm not sure if this has been mentioned before but, while I was at a show yesterday I noticed that the plastic left and right side interior trim panels on the series one cars have no perforations where they line up with the 240z pillar emblems on the outside, later cars have perforations in these trim panels that line up with the vents on the outside. The areas I am describing are circled in red in this parts fiche image. Also the series one brake master cylinders have the reservoirs reversed as compared to series two and later. I know this has been noted in other brake system related threads but I thought it would be worth including here. Mike
  24. CanTechZ replied to tamo3's post in a topic in Body & Paint
    All I can say is, wow!! It was very good of you to remove your fender so that we could have a look.
  25. Detailed the car for a show tomorrow: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/general-announcements/52693-2014-vancouver-all-nissan-meet-august-9th-10th.html When I opened up the spare tire cover it was like opening a 44 year old time capsule.

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