CanTechZ

I use one like this, the triangular shape makes it easy to pour out after, if it gets to full I just slide under a second small tray to catch the last couple of liters: 9 Litre Triangular Oil Drain Pan | Princess Auto

Just an update on this event, coming up this weekend, the following link has be updated with registration info, etc. The 510 Realm - View topic - 2014 Vancouver All Nissan Meet; August 10th It looks like the Autocross part has been canceled, but on the plus side the weather should be great for the show on Sunday. Mike

I had problems with my fan switch working intermittently and after I had the switch contacts cleaned it has worked fine since. I think the headlight thing is just coincidence.

Thanks for all the advice, when I am ready to have the repairs done I will do a full removal of the tar mats in the floors. For now I will make patterns and continue with the spot checks to expose the worst of the rusted areas so that I know what I am getting myself into.

Thanks for the replies so far, if/when I decide do a complete removal I will definitely use the dry ice method. Either way I will also use the ice pick idea to check the extent of rusted areas. Here are a few more pics as I wanted to investigate the areas that Chris pointed out, its looks like I have been somewhat lucky as the rust on the area of the spot welds is only surface, due to a crack in the tar mat as indicated by the arrows in the third picture Any other opinions, suggestions, comments are welcomed. Mike

As one of the first steps in the restoration process of my '70 240z I'm trying to determine the full extent of my rust issue and I'm looking for opinions regarding floor tar mat removal. I plan to have "all" rust removed and have a complete paint job back to the original 918 Orange. I know that the safest method is to remove all of the tar mats but most of mine are in such good shape I am hoping that will not be necessary. I have started to remove the undercoating below the floors to identify rusty areas and found that rust in the floors is mainly in areas with damage and the undercoating had cracked or had loosened allowing moisture in. For a test I removed a small area of tar mat that was bubbled and directly over some rust on the underside of the drivers side floor. It was 30°C today so I used a 1" scraper to lift the tar mat and then used a rag with varsol to remove the excess, no sanding was done. I was expecting to see a lot of surface rust, or worse, adjacent to the rust holes but was surprised to see how clean the bare steel was. Here are a few pics of what I found. Passenger Side Drivers Side, with tar mat removed in rusted area Close-up showing clean bare metal adjacent to rusted areas Close-up showing what bubbles in tar mat looked like previous to removal The area of tar mat I have removed is not the full extent of the issue but I don't want to blindly remove all the tar when I am trying keep my car as original as possible. I value any input or suggestions you may have. Thanks Mike

I remembered seeing the thread below when I did a search about rebuilding hatch struts, maybe it will shed some light on your problem regarding the weld attach points. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/33754-71-240z-hatch-strut-mount.html

Lots of good stuff there, even has the original series one radio and steering wheel.

Actually two days ago, took the 240Z to a local car show at an excellent venue. Of 144 registered cars three were Japanese, mine, a very nicely restored '74 260Z and a very nice '74 Toyota Celica GT. Here is a link to a youtube presentation posted by the event organizers, if you like history you will enjoy it. You will see me arriving at 3:59, there was a wide variety of vehicles. Mike

This event is hosted by the 510 Club of BC, a friend of mine is a member. There is an Auto cross on the Saturday in Surrey and a show on the Sunday in the Lonsdale Quay area of North Vancouver, it is a nice setting. Here is a link to the details: The 510 Realm - View topic - 2014 Vancouver All Nissan Meet, August 9th and 10th The date is getting closer and I have been told more details will be posted soon. Usually there is a decent showing of S30's, here is a pic from the 2012 event. I plan to be at the show on the Sunday Mike

That's interesting, I have the original warranty and service booklet for mine and it was sold by Hugh Rider Ltd. in Vancouver, delivered to the first owner Aug. 28/70.

Very nice work, your attention to detail has been inspiring. I hope to do a similar job to my '70 over the next few years to be complete before our cars hit 50 years old. I was curious about the history of your car, was it a Canadian car? The clutch fan discussion here reminded me of an issue I had back in '83. I heard a strange intermittent ticking and then eventually a thud from under the hood as I was driving on the highway. Well it turned out that my water pump was failing and the intermittent ticking was the fan just contacting the rad as the water pump shaft was walking in and out. The thud was when a fan blade hit the rad to hard, bent over 90° and stuck right into my newly re-cored rad as I was approaching my destination. Luckily I didn't over heat as all of my coolant was on the ground. Mike

Was cleaning out the garage today and found my Candar Ski Rack, a dealer add on accessory from 1979, price was C$30 plus C$24 labor to install. Anyone else found any cool period accessories lately. Mike

Does this help: XenonS30 If you search around on xenons30 you probably find the console as well, or download the '73 FSM. Mike

Or an old school TV antenna

Here's a Pic showing the installation. Mike

Was watching "Halt And Catch Fire" on AMC last night, it's a show about the computer industry set in the early 80's. At the end of the episode they destroyed an '83 280ZX with a sledge hammer, five bucks per smack. Here's a screen capture from my phone,

Thanks, the body and paint was done in the early '80s and the paint is definitely showing it's age, some faded and checked areas. Luckily the rust repairs are holding up well, as the car is parked for winter. One day I hope to do a re-paint back to the original 918 orange. Your '72 looks very nice, and only 5% to go, wish I could say the same. Aren't those last few points always the hardest.

Spent Father's Day with my son, cleaning up the 30 year old paint job on '70 S30. Wash, Mothers Clay Bar, Auto Glym Super Resin Polish, finish with Mothers California Gold carnauba wax. I think we knocked at least 10 years off the paint job, it was a 20' car before and now it's a 10' car . Thanks Chris. Mike/Dad

I'm also located in Chilliwack, I'm not much of a mechanic and luckily I've never had a problem with the SU's on my '70, but I will send a message to a friend and see if he can help. Nice to here about another local 240, if you want PM me and maybe we can compare rides sometime. Mike I seem to have lost the contact info for the guy I was thinking of, but you could try Dan at the ZShop in Surrey, I've bought parts from him in the past and I have heard good things about his service as well. ZShop.ca

My Series one S30 also has the "Don't open when hot" cap. I can't confirm that it is the original cap but it was on the car when I purchased it in 1978. Anyone else have one of these on an early car?

Here's my garage today, just got the 240 running after sitting four years. I planned to share my garage right after we got the Audi but that was over a year ago. Anyway better late than never. Also the mods done to my Samurai, in the back, are listed in signature.

Both the early master cylinder (for use up to Aug '71) and the later one have a 7/8" bore, as far as I know the early one has been harder to find and therefore usually more expensive. The early one P/N 46010-E4602 can still be ordered from Nissan Dealerships, I have one on order right now due for delivery from Japan to western Canada by the end of this month. I went this way both for originality and ease of installation, ie: no brake line modifications required. Mike

I just checked mine on my '70 and three of them are M4 x 0.7mm with a Phillips head and strangely one is a No. 8-32UNC with a slotted head. Mike Just an update, when I reinstalled the screws the M4 x 0.7mm did feel like a better fit.