CanTechZ

The Nissan parts book shows it as a M10x1.25 x 28mm long, metric fine pitch. To see if it is a shoulder bolt measure the ID of hole in the yoke, if it is10mm then it's not a shoulder bolt.

Thanks for posting this Jim. I just went onto there site to look at their rear bumper and asked a few question using their on-line chat. They were very helpful and even sent me a picture of their rear bumper installed when I asked if the center section has that slight curve to match the body. Here's the pic. I will be placing an order soon. Thanks again.

You're welcome. I had nothing to lose cutting up that old door panel and I found it quite interesting to look into the methods of manufacture used 50+ years ago.

I found the old non-useable door panels (cards) from my 12'70 parts car and dissected one. Firstly the plastic "chromed" strip was definitely applied with some kind of hot molding process, as @Patconsuggested. It appears to have been done with some kind of heated platen that would do the full door panel in one go. The original vinyl has thin padding that appears to be glued to the back side before the heat molding process. The strip can be removed but it would be very difficult to salvage the chrome coating. I used two methods and both worked to remove it. First was using a sharp utility knife with the blade on the "flat" during cutting. Second method was with a heat gun on a low setting and after cutting the end free with a utility knife, I did some preheating and then held the heat gun aimed at the "release" point while pulling the strip free slowly. I had to kneel on the door panel to keep tension on the vinyl as I pulled. The heat method does more damage to the chrome on the strip. Here are some pictures on the door panel and vinyl and the process.

I think I might still have a pair off an old 12/70 parts car that are beyond repair in my shed. If I can find them I will take one apart and report back later this week.

I agree that Hagerty does under represent Asian auto manufacturers in this bi-monthly magazine. To be fair in the May-June edition there is a Japanese inclusion on the page after the Kia, a 2023 Toyota 4Runner. They mention it's the 40th anniversary of the 4Runner. In the Mar-Apr edition Hagerty did a better job of representing the Japanese segment with three inclusions. The 2022 Subaru WRX as number 3 in the new car section, a two page article about the Mazda Miata in segment called affordable classics, and best of all, a short member story from a West Virginia original owner of a Datsun 280Z, includes a pic of the car and owner. My gripe is not quite as severe as yours. 🙂

It appears that someone cut an OEM one piece shroud in half to make it easier to remove. Your top half looks identical to the upper part of the complete one I have. Purchased mine from a local Datsun dealership in the early eighties to help with a running hot issue. Here's a pic from before I started my resto.

Try searching unicoil or unicoil hose former. Shows 90° max but maybe there are others. https://www.unicoil.com.au/product/single-unicoils/

You're welcome.

If it helps here is a link to a recent discussion where I shared a hi-res TIF file of the FSM chassis drawing above. Hopefully it might reduce strain on your body guy's eyes.

Here's a pic from the 5/70 that sold in 2020 on BaT for 310K. Wheel chocks are 1970-February. Can't quite make out the jack date code. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-124/

Okay, I'll start. On my 7/70 the chocks are 0G, (= 1970-July) and my jack is PFI, (= 1970-June-9). I bought and stripped a 12/70 parts car about 25 years ago and I believe these chocks were in that car when I got it, one still shows an inked stamp with what I think is 9G, (= 1969-July)

Not a 78 owner but I know a little about this. 77 and 78 280Z's had side mount blades instead of the top mount used on 70 thru 76, all had the twin wire blade design. Also in 1977 it was mandated in the US that wiper arms and blades be black. Here are a couple of images from 1976 and 1977 280Z sales brochures. 1976 280Z with early style, unpainted SS twin wire blades and top mount arms, 1977 280Z with later style, black painted SS twin wire blades and side mount arms, When I was on the search a few years back for replacements (I had aftermarket plastic blades) I got a set of the later style blades and arms that I decided to use on my 1970, When I got them they has quite a bit of the original black paint that I had to remove. Turned out pretty good, most people wouldn't know that they are not correct for my car. Here's a couple of pics of mine for a better look at the difference of the 77/78 style.

With no pic, I'm going to take a guess and assume you are talking about this piece circled in red that goes on the "B-pillar". If it is the piece in the following pics it goes on the door.

Here is the measurement of the OE headliner from my 7/70, overall thickness 11mm (.433") and best I could measure the vinyl thickness is 0.3 mm (.012") Here's a pic showing the grain and "stipple" pattern with a tape measure. I call it stippling as it's more of a depression, definitely not a hole that goes through the vinyl.

In my case the headliner, both the vinyl and foam backing are in excellent shape. No damage to the vinyl and the foam (polyurethane?) is still fully intact and still has excellent flexibility, memory. The original headliner has a very unique fine grain and light "stippling" effect that I have yet to see on reproductions. Repos I've seen have almost no graining or to much with what looks like perforations. If someone makes one that is very close to OEM I may possibly go that route but for my restoration I am trying to use/re-use as many original parts and materials as I can. Here a few pics of my OE headliner showing the texture at different angles, it's hard to capture in pics.

Will do, it will be a couple of days before I can get to it.

Very nice seeing this kind of effort to re-use original materials. I was lucky when I removed my headliner that the foam was in excellent shape and came out perfectly with no damage to the vinyl or foam. I used a 1.25" wide paint scraper with the corners rounded off. If it helps I could get you a measurement of the thickness.

That's very good to hear and you're welcome. Gives me more confidence to use them on my own resto. I will be checking into the 3M product you used, thanks for the link. Was it very difficult to cut?

That someone was me. 🙂 The templates were taken from my 7/70 car, there are some differences for later cars, mainly with the rear deck template.

You're very welcome.

Lower fender to rocker bolt.

My 7/70 has the plastic pivot bracket.

Here are some pics that might help that I took as I was disassembling my 7/70. Basically as you described. HTH Mike

For reference here are a few pics of mine (pump and markings) on the engine from my 7/70. And some trivia as well.🙂 I replaced mine in 1983 with one I purchased from my local Datsun dealership, I learned today that it's actually likely a 280ZX water pump based on what I can tell from the part number (21010-P7526) on the receipt that I still have. It is a backwards compatible OEM part with the manufacturer name, Atsugi, cast in. The original is long gone, it succumbed to the weight of the original metal clutch fan. The history of Atsugi is quite interesting, it started out as part of Nissan to later become part of Hitachi's auto parts division. Here is a snippet from a Hitachi automotive systems history web page, see the link below for more, if you're interested. https://www.hitachiastemo.com/en/corporate/history/automotive/