trwebb26

Could I weld in bigger fittings to my stock tank and run -6AN and -8AN from them? Does anybody know how big the pickup tubes inside are?

Today I dropped the tank... You can tip the tank from side to side and hear the rust sliding around in it. Flashlight through the sending unit hole confirmed it - rusty inards. I completely plan on making this a badass car (350+whp) with a L28ET swap. Questions: - Should I mess with the old tank (take it to a renu dealer) - or should I just put in a fuel cell? - Will the stock fuel lines acoomodate 350 whp - or while I'm rebuilding the fuel system - should I go ahead with bigger stainless send and return lines. I'm not that worried about the cost... I plan on having this car a long time and I want to do it "right" - If I do put in bigger lines - do I need to change out the elbows coming out of the fuel tank for bigger ones? Basically - while I'm spending all of this time - I wan't to do it right so I don't have to ever mess with it again. Like I said - I'm not so worried about the cost. I guess - if you were to design the ideal fuel system for a 78 Z - what would it look like? Thanks for the Replies!!! -Tim

Hey everybody! I recently purchased a 280z that has been in storage for quite some time. I was in the process of tuning up the engine to try and turn it over. I pulled the drain plug on the gas tank to make sure that no rust fell out and something else fell out - it looks and feels like pieces of rubber! My guess is that the vent lines and/or the return line are flaking on the inside. All the rubber hoses are shot (on the outside), so I want to replace them anyways. Anybody ever seen or heard of this before? Can somebody help me get a shopping list together to replace ALL of the fuel lines? Should I consider replacing the lines with stainless and/or putting in a bigger fuel pump. I've also noticed that the Z doesn't have a filter before the fuel pump... should there be one? Thanks! Tim

There is NO rust on the frame, doglegs, hatch, below radiator, spare tire area, floor pans, under battery tray, etc. The thing is in great shape! I plan on posting pics this weekend. What do you mean by rust proofing? Actually - the positive post is very close to the diagonal brace in the rear of the engine bay (close to the firewall). I'll try flipping it around. Any other pointers to try and get the engine fired up?

Hey everybody... my first thread! I just purchased a rust free 280Z out of Texas for $1500. The body is in phenominal shape, but the car has been sitting in a garage for a number of years. I plan on the every popular 280ZX built turbo motor swap, but would like to get the existing 280 FI motor running in the mean time. Here are the things I'm considering doing to the car to try and get it going: - Drain all the old gas flush all the lines (where can I take old gas???). Check for rust in the tank and have it worked over by a radiator shop if it is rusty. Replace the fuel filter and fill with new gas. - Check spray pattern for injectors (is there a "how to" on this somewhere?) - Check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. - Replace the cap, rotor, and plugs. - Check and adjust timing. - Charge the battery Is there anything else I'm missing to try and get this beast fired up? One other question I had was that the positive battery post is VERY close to the body of the car. There is VERY little clearance. I found this extremely weird. Is this common with the Z? Thanks! Tim

So what do you want for it? If you were to buy it - what would you expect to pay? I want to buy a Z - but I was hoping for one that was a little more put together. Thanks, Tim