71_240Z

I don't really have a response or anything constructive to add I just could'nt wait to use that quote.

do you have passenger side mirrors too? or does it matter? do you have a pair that match?

DANG IT.. why didnt someone tell me that before I left my primmed Z out in the rain!! Parts of the car were sanded down the the bare metal and primed. I thought it was protected.... :stupid: I was wondering where the $#%@ all of that &^%*# surface rust came from....

How much does she charge per hour?

As I have sanded my car down panel by panel, I have noticed what I would consider a little extra bondo here and there too. Why is there bondo on top of perfectly straight metal??!! My car has had at least three paint jobs in its life. That's red primer, blue, dark grey primer, blue, light grey primer, red. SIX coats in all. It seems that the "unnecessary" bondo is in places where the paint is thin - only the last coat, then bondo, then metal. Maybe a deep scratch in all that paint is easier to fix by sanding out a small area and filling with bondo back up to paint level. Several coats of paint is pretty thick. You cant just sand to bare metal and prime the metal. You have to fill the crater. That my 2 cent speculation.

I have one red door, one orange door, a black hood, a blue fender and a grey (primer) hatch. Talk about being confused! Macco told me that they charge extra to "change the color." I'm not sure that I want to go to Macco though. I need to learn more about paint before I decide who gets to paint it. I'm leaning towards red. The orange door DOES look nice though....

I dont know what's more fun, goading the near insane into rants.... or boobs.....

My rear skirt is mangled pretty bad - especially around the tail pipe. I guess I have to cut out the whole thing and reweld another one. Im exploring alternatives, but I dont really like the rear ground effect kits too much although it seems like a good solution to solve the cosmetic problem. Has anyone every replaced this part? It looks like I have to cut it out and hire a welder. I cant find any bolts. I was hoping for a bolt off / bolt on job. Do you have a straght one you can send me? Am I missing something? It does have to be welded, right?

I know there is a thread somewhere, but I don't know what to search on. I am sure that there is a word for the engine running a few seconds after you turn it off, but I can't recall. Is this a timing problem or a mixture problem? A point gap problem? I have adjusted all of these recently. Thanks.

As a Southerner, I resent that.

scary. I totally bypassed my mechanical pump, but its still bolted on. Should I remove it?

Before I paint my 71, I want to add a rear spoiler because they look so cool. Do you have one that I can have?

I need tail lights and the piece of metal under the rear bumper. The metal between the bumper and the gas tank with a cutout for the tail pipe. Mine is all mangled around the tail pipe.

what is the difference? do they look different? is there a durability issue?

Mine is under the hood in front of the strut tower. It sucks just fine. The only problem that I have had is that it sucks a little too well when the battery acid rusts a hole in the fuel line. The fuel line had a tiny hole for a while, but the suction kept the line from leaking. I kept "running out of gas" and hearing this sucking sound, but no gas leaks. When I disconnedted the fuel pump hose, the suction was released, gas spilled, and I found the hole.

no sway bar here... do you think adding one would help keep my butt on the road? I have never understood the purpose of adding sway bars - exept for the coolness factor. I am convinced that I need new struts. Help convince me on the sway bar. Thanks.

I checked underneath and nothing seems to be broken or disconnected. It looks pretty much like the Haynes manual. I guess I will try the struts. I will probably just use whatever Autozone carries (near OEM) unless there is some aftermarket strut that is far superior. My goal is to drive, not to race - except for an occasional autocross. I am also trying to figure out if I need new springs. I saw the post by carl beck and his OEM springs, but I can't figure out why springs go bad. Mine are still "springy." Any idea how to assess the need for spring replacement?

I currently use ATF too. It just happened to be in the garage when I noticed my carbs were low. The carbs work great. I have also used 10W40 10W30. I can't tell much difference. You could probably use vegetable oil (Im not going to try it). The oil doesnt really oil anything. Its just a liquid damper.

The springs are stock. As far as I know, the struts are orignial too. The back tires DO bounce around a bit on a smooth straight road. I cant really feel it (too much), but a friend who was following me said the back tires were bouncing a lot. When I am cornering hard and the pavement has ANY imperfection in it, the back end starts sliding. I figured the straight ahead bouncing was caused by an imbalanced tire, but now that you mention it, I guess it may all be related to the same problem.

Can you say 'arse?' :paranoid: I just got my Z running again after it had sat in the woods for a few years. No mice in the carbs (did you see that post!??). I'm trying work through all of the mechanics before I tackle the cosmetics, so I have been driving back and forth to work a few days a week. Every time I hit a curve too hard, the back end lets go of the pavement and scares me to death. I am not talking about racing speeds. Im talking about taking right hand turn into my neighborhood at about 20 to 30 mph on bone dry pavement. Something you would expect a Z to easily handle. My mazda 323 (four door sedan) will take the same curves at the same speed and stick to the road. My tires are newish. I can hardly MAKE the front tires slide even when I lay on the brakes, so I dont think its the tires. If I really get on it, the back tires bark when I shift into 2nd and even 3rd (sometimes). What do I need to adjust to keep my back end on the road? Any ideas? Would a simple strut replacement solve the problem? I think they need replacement, but I don't want to take everything apart, then put every thing back together and wind up with the same problem. The problem is even more pronounced when I hit a bumpy curve - even a small bump seems to render the back wheels airborne. Thats why I suspect struts. But I dont really know much about suspension. The struts on the front are a month old. I replaced them when I rebuilt my front brake system (toyota conversion). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. -Barry

Is it just me, or is there something hypocritical about a bunch of Japaneese sports Car enthusiasts calling other Japaneese cars "ricers?" I dont get it. Please enlighten.

I have never been disappointed by what was underneath the bra... even the old ones. No fear. -B

I think its a cool looking car. My engine bay looks like his and Im almost got my body in good enough shape to go to painting. I was thinking I would paint my engine bay too (oh the disassembly!!!), but after seeing this car, I think I may just steam the engine and just paint the outside. A PO painted it bubbly black... probably some type of undercoating. Who looks at the engine anyway? Im not building a trailer queen. I want to drive it a few times a week and autocross every so often. Not a fan of the wheels, but I LOVE the interior and paint I like a bumper on the front of a car. I am too nervous to park a bumperless car anywhere.

why dont you go ahead and ebay it and let us duke it out in the free market.