THE73Z

Thanks for the good tip. She's in storage at a friend's for a couple weeks while I work on another project in my garage, but I will get her all cleaned up, when she comes back. Thanks again, Z

Round

That is exactly what happened! I had to move it to another garage and it died along the way. I couldn't get it to start until I figured out that the nozzles were stuck down. It ain't perfect, but it runs pretty f'n good now. Thanks for all thye help guys.

On some levels that seems accurate. It makes my eyes water like there's tons of unspent fuel coming from the exhaust, but I don't understand why it would run with the choke on and get progressively worse as I let the choke out if that were the case. I was thinking it might be cap and rotor/plugs and wires since it ran fine six months ago and now it runs terrible after sitting for so long. Aside from messing with the chokes none of the carb adjustments have changed - unless there's just varnish build-up that is some how effecting the mixture. I never really got around to learning these carbs. Thanks for all your help. Z

I know what you mean, but it seemed somehow abnormal. I guess It's hard to explain.

It wasn't my fault - really. I've had a ton of obligations lately and the poor Z has been neglected. I've been fiddling with the choke a bit and had it running great, but now it won't idle without the choke, smells strongly of fuel, and sounds like it's missing. If I put my palm in front of the tail pipe, I hear a pop pop pop as the exhaust hits my hand. If I cover either airhorn the engine dies. There is a little vacuum port on top of the front carb (73 SU) that is sucking tons of air (way more than normal). If I cover it the engine dies. I'm thinking distributor...? Any clues? Thanks, Z

I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the switch. Even with the cables completely loose, the light doesn't go out with the lever forward. That is... I can push the lever all the way forward and the light goes out, but when I let go the lever comes back a bit and the light goes back on. So it looks like I'll have to take the console apart. I assume the switch is right under the lever. Wait... I can read... it's on the front of the choke lever bracket. Is it normal for the lever to spring back a bit from the most forward position? It seems like it has always done this, but now the light goes on when it does. Thanks, Z

History: Choke light and choke both worked. Then choke light worked and choke didn't. Adjusted the cables, choke worked, didn't notice the choke light. Now choke works and choke light is always on. If I push the choke lever all the way forward the light goes out, but then it returns to it's original position and light goes back on. I figured the cable was too tight so I loosened the clamps and pulled the lever back a bit thinking it would self adjust. But it didn't. Pulled the lever all the way back with loose clamps then all the way forward and still nothing. Gave up. Cable position doesn't seem to have any effect on the choke light. It's always on. Choke will surely need to be re-adjusted. Question: Is there some sort switch for the choke light under the center console that I can adjust so the light goes out when I want it to? Prepping the car for sale and need to resolve this. Datsun shop manual was of no help of course. Thanks, Z

I found a fair amount of discussion about weather stripping in general on this site. Most people are happy with OEM but it is out of this world expensive. Some people have had good experiences with various aftermarket products, but a lot of people (myself included) have found them to be a PITA. Usually, they are too firm or too thick and require you to use both hands to close your door or hatch. I have OEM and even that requires a little follow through when closing the door. Seems like someone had good experiences with JC W, but I can't be certain. Let your fingers do the walking. HTH, Z

OK, so I took Dave's advice and polished the nozzles and now they slide up and down smoothly. However, there are some springs hooked onto the hose clamps at the nozzles that are presumably to keep the nozzles in the up position when the choke is off. But they only seem to cause the nozzles to bind (because they pull at an angle) and seem like somebody's quick fix. With the choke cables properly adjusted, the springs seem completely unnecessary if not detrimental to the performance of the choke. Are the springs OEM or Jackass installed? Thanks, Z Btw, after wrecking my back for an hour bent over the engine bay, I discovered that the carbs are at the perfect height to work on by kneeling next to the front tire. OMG, what could be better!

You're awesome! Thank you VERY much. Z

73, L24, with 72 SU's. Did a few searches but didn't find the answer, books aren't helping either. Trying to avoid the inevitable learning by removal, disassembly, reassembly, and reinstalling... I know I should but I really don't have the time these days. With the choke cables detached from the carbs, both chokes stick - the front considerably worse than the rear. Can I remove and repair the chokes without removing the entire carb? Do they just unscrew? I have an entire book on SU's that doesn't help at all. Thanks, Z

That's a bummer. However, I think it would work fine for stop light to stop light driving and autocross. Is there a dry sump system available for it? Seems like bushy has lost interest. Z

Actually, I think that was in reference to the BMC 4 cyl that came in MGBs and Triumphs. It was one heavy little motor. A SBC adds 140 lbs to a Z and the Buick/Rover, while lighter than the SBC, still adds weight to the Z - but the trade-off for the added hp is still well worth it. Z

Accidental repost deleted.

If you're serious about doing the V8 swap, get the Jags That Run conversion manual. Jagsthatrun.com. It'll save you all kinds of headaches. You generally have to move the hood latch to clear the distributor on the SBC, but it would seem you could avoid that with the Buick/Rover since the distributor is in the front. If you want gobs of power and tons of options for relatively less money go with the SBC. If you want something lighter, more exotic and you don't mind a few more headaches, a little less power, and a little more costly go with the Buick/Rover - the car will be better balanced. A properly set up SBC adds 100 lbs to the front and 40 lbs to the rear, which isn't bad at all considering you just doubled the hp, but the Buick/Rover would do even better in terms of weight. For more info on the Buick/Rover do a search for MGB V8 conversions. D&D Fabrications (as mentioned earlier) can be found at AluminumV8.com. And unless you need the Rover bling factor, save yourself some money and buy a Buick - it is EXACTLY the same as the Rover. Buick 215 = Rover 3.5L. Rover bought the engine from Buick so they could build a factory V8 MGB after they saw everyone else doing it at home. As far as fuel economy goes, horsepower is made from gas. When you put a V8 in a Z, fuel economy is the last thing on your mind. You're too busy trying to figure out why you can taste your ears. A 300hp turbocharged 2.5L Subaru engine might be more efficient than a 300hp 3.5L carbureted Rover, but the Subaru is still going to suck all kinds of fuel at 5,000 rpms. You don't get anything for nothing. The reality is, it's easier to make 300hp with the SBC, so you won't have to run a big cam that idles like crap and spend a fortune port and polishing your heads. A mild 350 will get roughly 22 mpg highway in a Z, but understand that a 3.5L Rover that is all tricked out to produce 300hp isn't going to get very good fuel economy. Besides, torque is generally more important than hp. Torque is what gets you up to speed, hp is what keeps you going at that speed. When you build an engine to produce lots of horsepower (relative to what it was designed to produce) you generally sacrifice torque. I bet you don't hit 300hp until roughly 5,500 rpms with a 3.5L. If you plan on running the car primarily on a track then you probably won't mind. But if you want that off the line power that throws you back in your seat and won't let you breath until you shift, then you'll want your power curve to come in lower. Is this car for street or track? I'm not trying to talk you out of the Rover, it just won't be as easy, convenient, or inexpensive as the SBC. And I think you'll get crappy gas mileage when you put a big cam in it. Your options with the SBC are endless. You can always start off mild and then build it up if you decide you need more. A lot of people pull one from a wrecked Camaro (you can the get the tranny and clutch at the same time) and you'll even get EFI. It'll idle smoothly and best of all it will be quiet (provided you have a sensible exhaust). No one will be the wiser when you pull up along side them. But if you have a big cam, Holley Dominator, and Flowmasters you'll know every cop in town. On the other hand, if you build a mild Buick/Rover you'll probably still get 200-225hp (which will still put a smile on your face, but you won't have the fastest car in town) and you'll get halfway decent fuel economy. Only you know how fast you want to go. If you haven't already had the pleasure of riding in or driving a V8Z, find someone to show you their's. You might find out that 300hp is way too much... or way too little. HTH, Z

Nissan bag, part number, etc. Thanks for the info. Z

If they don't say genuine and cost a fortune then they are aftermarket. At MSA for example, they sell "reproduction" door WS for $35 vs $73 for "genuine." The big difference is fit. Z

I'm sure anyone can ship to the Philippines once payment has cleared. Are you looking for "genuine" or aftermarket? If you haven't been following, do a search so you are aware of all the headaches associated with the different types of weatherstripping. Z

Hmmm... so this weatherstripping is from '73? Maybe Nissan just picked up all their short ends and glued them together to sell as replacement WS - . Z

I received my genuine weatherstripping from MSA and it has been glued together. It's glued in the corner - which I don't really care about, but it is glued again about half way down the longer piece where it would cross the dash near the upper door hinge. It looks like someone cut it by mistake, glued it back together with rubber cement about 10 years ago and then sent it back to the dealership. I called MSA, and after a little research they told me the other one they had in stock was also glued together and that is how it came from the factory. Does anyone else out there have the genuine WS that has a seam in the middle? Thanks, Z

Bummer. -Z