THE73Z

That's not a bad idea. Z

Cool. Thanks dude. Z

That's one smart feller who made his own out of sheet metal. I'm the one restoring a car so I guess it should be "worth buck$" to me, but MSA sells them for $32. Not sure if theirs are "genuine." Just checked the label on the bag to see if it really went with the glove box... and this is classic. It says, "A GROVE BOX" - I guess it's the real thing. Anyway, I'm sure it'll hold up fine as long as I don't put anything heavier than the registration, insurance card, and one map in there. I guess I can just see what happens with this one, and if it falls apart I can get the one from MSA and coat it or make my own out of an old washing machine. The cardboard just seems a little inadequate. Z

Please excuse my ignorance, but is this piece of cardboard origami with staples in it my glove box? It's brand new in a Nissan bag... If so, does anyone make something a little nicer? If not, I'm thinking I might have it dipped in black acrylic. But, will it deform when it gets wet? Can I shellac it or something? Seems like the acrylic would work... Z

Zparts.com Eric deals only in used Z parts. I've never actually purchased anything from him because I've decided to buy new parts, but he's a nice guy and has a large inventory. I think you have to email him with your request and he'll get back to you. HTH, Z

I'm getting ready to install my rear interior panels (quarter panels etc) and I've noticed that the vinyl covering the wheel wells isn't glued down. Should I just use Spray 77 or is there a better longer lasting product? Plus, do I need to do anything to keep the plastic panels from squeaking where they overlap? I don't know that they will but it seems like they might. I'd rather just do the install once... Thanks, Z

I'm not touching the driver's side until I have to! I just sold my body by Fisher car - '65 Riv. Definitely a solid car, but that extra 1500 lbs sure made it slow. I could spin the tires half way through 2nd gear and I still wasn't going anywhere. Handled just like a ski boat. Definitely felt safer around the other land yaughts than I do now. Thanks for all the help, Z

Thank you. What I have looks identical in shape, but I think mine is more dense and yours more porous. I would think more porous would be better. The original owner of my car got everything from MSA, so it's likely he got the WS there too. How thick is it when you squeeze it in the other direction (as the door would)? Let me know what happens when you close your door... The dremel worked pretty well for removing material but it's tedious work. Thanks, Z

3/16" is a very nice sounding number. But, I wish I could use the stock welting. You shouldn't have to buy 3 different products to get one that works. Thanks for the numbers, Z

Well this was unexpected. The original owner covered the car with sound proofing and I guess he also filled a few cavities with expanding foam insulation. That plate isn't going anywhere. I'll have to open up the holes in the striker if I need to adjust it. This seemed like such a simple project. Thanks, Z

That's very helpful. That plate must be stuck. I'm sure a little love tap on the bolts will free it up. As far as the JC Whitney product is concerned, I would like to keep the moulded corner if possible, but I guess I could miter the corner and super glue it together - . I'm going to try cutting away some of the material inside the WS tunnel with a dremel. I never dreamed this would be such a pain. Thanks, Z

Ok, I did the search (as I should have in the first place) and now I know that there is no simple answer to the weatherstripping problem. There doesn't seem to be any one product that everyone likes. From a few photos it looks like the 1 pc from Precision is the narrowest - although a tape measure or quarter would have helped. Does anyone have a measurement on its thickness? And who sells it? The vendors don't seem to name the manufacturers of their weatherstripping. Is it this one from MSA? http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=34-1075A&Category_Code=SWR01C I am still toying with the idea of modifying what I have. What a PITA!

I think a darker tone of the orange you're using would be sweet. Especially if you're going with burnt orange, a darker burnt orange would look really nice. Have your paint shop show you a few tests. It'll be worth it. If you're not into the darker orange idea, dark silver or dark to medium grey would be very complimentary. I would not do black or white myself. Make sure you're happy with the test. You don't want to spend all that money and have it look ridiculous. Z

I recently replaced my door latch (which needed to be done anyway) but it failed solve my door rattle problem. I've read Enrique's door article and I feel like I understand it. The problem is the striker plate on my car has almost no adjustablity. For some reason the holes are not elongated. But then I remembered that the car came with new uninstalled weather stripping for the doors. It looks right for the application but seems really thick. The door fits in the opening properly, and it doesn't rattle anymore... but it takes 2 hands to close the door which is totally unacceptable. I don't want to buy new weather stripping only to find out I already have the right stuff. And, I don't want to start drilling the striker if the weather stripping is totally wrong. So I'm hoping someone can tell me if the weather stripping I have is right or not. I currently have it installed (but not glued) in hopes that it will compress over time. I can compress it between my fingers to 5/16". Otherwise it is 3/4" wide from the body seam it rides on. Thanks, Z

YES. It IS possible. I loosened the sash on the latch side of the door, and while pulling on the bottom of the sash I was able to fight the old latch out and the new one in. No harm done, the window still works fine. Several times it seemed like I would fail and then something would just fall into place. The hardest part was actually getting the rod off the outer door handle. When I finally tried the panel tool, it came right off. I tore the hell out of my arm squeezing it through a little hole to pull on the sash. For the install I got the great idea to tie some string to the bottom of the sash so I wouldn't have reach in as far. Struggle, struggle, struggle, struggle, struggle, struggle, struggle... did it just go in? Yeah baby! Time to adjust the striker and go enjoy the nice weather. Thanks, Z

Ok. That gives me a little hope. Thanks. Z

I need to replace my door latch mechanism and the manual says I need to remove the window sash which means removing the window. I can see that the mechanism is buried behind the window sash/track, but I really don't want to remove the window and sash if I don't have to. I think I know my fate, but I'm hoping someone has succeded in sliding the mechanism behind that track by loosening up the sash and getting really lucky. Normally I wouldn't care about removing a window but the whole door is skinned with sound proofing which I am now having to cut through and everything is in A+ condition appearance wise. I'll flip if I scratch the window. It's ok to lie to me. Thanks, Z

I'm used to American V8s and I'm still not very familliar with this engine, but here's what I have. Stock rebuilt 73 2.4L with 72 SU's and stock air cleaner (which I assume matches the carbs since the car came with the original carbs and another air cleaner). The problem; all of the sudden the car has difficulty starting. It sputters, backfires, gets up to speed then chokes and wants to die. It basically doesn't sound like it's getting enough fuel or air. Once it's warmed up it runs fine. However the idle seems a little rougher and slightly slower than I remember. All summer it just purred like a kitten. Where should I start? The flap on the air cleaner is in the open position, should I close it? The temp is about 65 here. I don't know anything about the mechanical choke -- other than it must restrict airflow causing the engine to run richer and therefore faster. The problem is the same with and without use of the choke. I may try some carb cleaner - though I don't think that's the problem. The carbs had sufficient oil the last time I checked. Or am I totally off, and I should be checking ignition? Thank you for your input, Z

Thank you for the speedy reply. Numbers matching! Z

This may be apples and oranges, but my 240Z came with an older exhuast modification that sounds really nice. There's a Y pipe up front followed by dual pipes through a glass pack on each side, mid ship. The two pipes exit, vertically stacked, in the stock location with no mufflers. It purrs like a kitten, is never loud, and sounds like a well tuned 60's European sports car. Plus, I don't think it very restrictive. Z

I tried a few searches but came up empty handed. A link would be great. I bought my 240Z from the original owner who says the original engine was rebuilt, but the paper work from 1991 says, Qty..Part number........Name of part..........................Price 1.....1010B-P7110RE....Reman Niss. Eng --> 7/79........1515.13 which leads me to believe he bought a remanufactured engine which would not be numbers matching. Any thoughts would be great. Thanks, Z

Thanks Russ, I'll look into it. Z

Could be bondo cracks. Take a magnet and wrap it in a t-shirt then go over the hatch and the rest of the car for that matter. If the magnet sticks you've got steel, if it doesn't stick you've got body filler. I always do the magnet test before I buy a car... and I bring ramps, and I've even pulled valve covers off. I'd have it x-rayed if I could - . Anyway, if you have bondo you might want to dig up your receipt for the paint job.

Ah, I didn't realize I could get them new - NOS? You wouldn't remember where you got them would you? Thanks, Z

I'm starting to think along the lines of tool dip - but a picture would be really helpful. This is an otherwise really nicely restored/kept car and I don't want to do anything half-assed. At the same time, the rattle/clunk really detracts from the car's sex appeal. Thanks for your help guys, Z