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I know you cant watch your tach 24/7, but if you happen to notice the tach exactly as it happens, and the tach hits zero RPM's hard and stays there, that is how mine responded with the corrosion issues I had, and would definitely indicate an ignition problem.

I remember back in the day I worked in a Z car junk yard, and I had every make an model at my disposal. So I mixed and matched pieces from 240's 260's, 280's and Maybe even 280ZX's and solved it 95%, but it seemed that the last pivot above the throttle linkage had the most amount of resistance. If you can duplicate that last item with a set of teflon lined heim joints (spherical rod end bearing) that makes a BIG difference. Also, if you have the resources to press the factory bushing out of the intake manifold boss and bore it out to accept a needle bearing and seal from a parts shop, that might solve all of your problems. But many above are correct, the beginning of the travel for the factory linkage is a bit over-center and it makes the initial depressing of the throttle abrupt if the pivots are not lubed properly. I 100% stock is your goal, I remember graphite on the bronze bushing in the manifold/carb helped. A filling each nylon cup with synthetic lube helped quite a bit. Also you could have an oilite bushing machined by a local machinist pretty cheap, then pres it in the factory location. The raw bushing material can be purchased from McMaster Carr.

Thanks, I will probably post here in the "Open S30 Discussions", as it seems the check out my ride page is kinda hard to find. I have a TON of photos, and I am in contact with a Moderator to see if I can post all the images on the same thread to keep my original post uncluttered, since I have so many photos and some descriptions of what I did with some modifications. Thanks to both of you.

I have had a similar problem with more than one of my Z's but they were all 240's. In each case it was a (very) slightly corroded Coil Lead. After everyone else's suggestion of checking spark when it fails again, pull the simple spade connector off the coil scuff with scotchbright, and use needle nose pliers to crimp that connector a tiny bit tighter (don't crush it closed) so it more solidly/positively engages the spade fastened to the coil, and see if that works. Also check the coil for any oil around it. Older coils used to start leaking before they completely failed. You are a braver man than I trying to keep that original EFI running. My hats off to you. GOOD LUCK SIR!!!

The car in my Sig was originally blue, and I was 20 when I converted it to black. Now 20+ years later I wish I would have made it blue again. The interior paint under the panels, and carpet are still blue, and I kinda wish I would have went blue. I say keep it blue if you keep it. I grew up in the rust belt, in love with Z cars, and even when I was young (in 1984) a 1975 280Z my friends dad owned was a total rust bucket. Only 9 years old not worthy of fixing up. I moved to AZ in 87 and I could not believe how much cleaner = rust free, Z cars were, all the plastic and rubber were cooked but... Not knocking your find, but knowing how clean and rust free AZ, TX and CA cars are, I would be very surprised if the original owner does go for it. Also in my opinion one thing that makes any 240 more valuable, is having not been in a collision that damages part of the sub-frame and basic tub. If that's all straight, I say you have a GREAT find. But... there is always that nostalgia factor. Good luck to whoever ends up owning it!!!

If we wanted to post a bunch of photos of our build, do you guys have a specific place you recommend?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-280ZX-280-ZX-All-Original-Arizona-Car_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQihZ002QQitemZ4649344866QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I have personally cut at least a dozen Z cars. I would dare to say I am the one that first gave John the idea to cut teh top off of a Z car. Its pretty easy all the early ones I got the idea from were the HOUSE OF Z conversions they looked great, I saw them in HOT ROD magazine and maybe a Car and Driver. Those articles covered the conversion pretty good. You basiacally cut the windsheild at the support behind the windsheild bout 2.5 inches back. Then cut the hatch out an inch or 2 above the feature line, then took the rear window out and cut 14 inches out of the window length and welded it back together, both the hatch and the outer rail. Its easier to do this 14 inch removal as one of the first cuts on the whole car that way the stuff isnt flopping around on the ground withthe sawsall. Go to the junk yard and find a similarly sloping roof (I seem to remember a Mustang 2 working pretty good) and bring home the whole roof and reskin the entire rear hatch with the old mustang roof. I have lots of old photos, just none of them scanned. For frome support my early cars used 3/16 wall 3x3inch box steal cut it down the center to make 2 C-channels and those fit over the original frame rails froom front suspension to rear subframe support. This seemd to work OK but definately could use some more support. If you guys see John floating around on this board tell him to PM me. Thanks Andy Z

Nice swap Aussie260z, I really wanted a lot of power for cheep, heres my 7mgte swap Im probably making more than 450 RWHP with a price of $750 for motor and tranny, since I saved so much on the motor and tranny I broke the bank on everything else. Sure I would love the 2JZGTE but not the 3K-6K price tag for motor and tranny alone. front iso Turbo no IC tubes O2 sensor welding plan view complete motor rear suspension no strut Rear brakes installed Exhaust rear Front Iso IC Auto X

They are FN01RC's 17x8 25mm in front and 17x9 35mm in the rear. Since they are aftermarket and different widths and offsets I dont think you can say they really came off of an "S" body. I bought them new. Great price for the weight. I am very happy with them. Oh and its a 4 of 1971 manufacture date, and Thanks Until you have more than 3 times the rear wheel horsepower the car came with stock. I have probably more than 450 RWHP with my current setup at 21 PSI. You shoulda seen the look on the GSXR1000's owners face when I beat him in a roll on from 40-140, hell I was even surprised.

Yea this is mostly to benefit a 240 owner but to make the most of this mod you should run a Relay and wire the fan directly to the battery. Also another friend ran like 3 inch ducting from the center plenum to the side vents with pretty decent results.

Im sure its not the same kit, as Dave at ArizonaZcar.com does not sell his kit to any other suppliers, he designs the entire system and has every part made to complete the conversion, everything is perfect I have 2 Zcars with his Wilwood kit and they both rock the house. heres a few photos. BTW thats his new coilover kit and Chromoly rear control arms and billet mustache bar if you look close. Oh those are behind 9inch wide 17's on the rear http://img214.echo.cx/img214/8520/cimg34166zy.jpg Front brakes behind wheel http://img136.echo.cx/img136/940/cimg34239io.jpg rear brakes behind wheel http://img56.echo.cx/img56/9864/cimg34181zp.jpg front long shot http://img159.echo.cx/img159/2995/cimg35074go.jpg