Phred

2ManyZs Sorry didn't I provide the complete address. http://www.precisionbrakescompany.com/willwood_overture.html I just keyed it up and got the complete site. Wonder whats up with the for sale bit? I suppose the next time I place an order, it'll be like Datsun-NLA! Phred

Important! Do not set up your brake system to lock the rears first. I have about twenty years experence setting up race and street brakes. If you lock the rears first, the rear of the car will try to pass the front, and bad things will happen. If the fronts lock first, the car goes straight. To recover, you simply release pedal pressure, regain traction and drive away. Cars are cars, not motorcycles. Before you kill yourself, go to www.willwood.com or call them at (805) 388-1188 for info. Phred

The pilot bearing, weather a needle roller type or bronze bushing should be a press fit in the back of the crank. The input shaft spins in the bush. The bush should not spin in the crank. I have run into non-press fit situations, and have secured the pilot bearing in the crank by completely cleaning the end of the crank and the OD of the bush, roughing both parts up with some fine sandpaper, clean completely, then install the pilot brg. with some Loctite stud and bearing formula, red or green. After its fully set, (which can be speeded up with carefull use of a butane torch, do not exceed 200 degrees) put a very small coating of grease on the ID of the bush and input shaft, and your good to go. Phred

Ok I'll Give you my 2 cents worth. I have had some experience with a similar problem. First, after sitting unused for a long time, two different things can happen to the valves/guides. First is the carbon on the valve stem and guide I.D. will really harden with unuse. Combine this with an engine sitting around for a long time, and what oil there was on the valve/guide has completely drained off. Now you start it up and the valve momentarily sticks to the guide when its half open. Then the rocker arm jumps off, and the piston comes back up and trys to close the valve. So you end up with a bent valve. It just depends on how much lift the valve had when it stuck, weather or not the piston would hit it or not. Generally there is plenty of valve/piston clr. The only other thing that would cause V-P interferance is if the cam lost its timing due to a timimg chain jumping a number of teeth. Quick test for damage. remove the rocker arm and spark plug from the cyl. in question. Turn eng. over so piston is at bottom dead center. Now with lash pad removed, tap on the end of the valve stem with a brass punch and hammer. You don't have to hit hard. It should pop up and down freely, and all retainers should be very close to the same relative height. When this happens it can also nick up the lobe when the rocker tries to jump out. So check for damage there too. More than likely the head is going to have to come off for proper repair. Phred

New, only have 4ea. spare wheel studs. 60mm from underside of head to end of thread, with 8mm added to tip as pilot for wheel nut. Please download picture. These sell new for $8.00 ea. My price $2.00 ea. plus $2.00 shipping. Send me a cashiers check or money order for $10.00 and they will shipped same day. Phred

1980 ZX fan/clutch in very good cond. $40.00 plus shipping. Phred fly.fred@verizon.net

Mudge, Coming up with flow #'s will be very subjective. Which head? which valve size? Fresh valve job? 1,2,or3 angle? All these things and more make large differences in flow. However, flow development is normally started with a baseline. This would at least give you some #'s to put in your program. To save time, most head flow people will go for what they know works, then flow it, then touch up to optimize and balance the flow from port to port. then flow again, repeat if needed, till they get the #'s they know are best from experience. So, what I suggest is to call B.C. Gerolamy in Sacramento (916-922-7652) in your backyard! Very politely ask them if you could get some baseline flow #'s for a E88, N42, P79, or whatever they might be willing to offer. Make it sound like your a potential customer, and they might take the time to help you out. Afterall, its not like there giving away trade secrets. just baseline #'s. Good luck. Phred

The extra "webbing", actually just a filler of cast iron, can best be viewed through the first and last expansion plug holes on the side of the block. (only if they have been removed, of coarse) On the F54 block you will see how the cly's are siamese'd or cast together at the very center of the block. on non F54 blocks, you will be able to see air space between the cyl's. Phred

This should clear up the muddy water a bit. Phred datsun l6 stock cam specs.txt

Try this link for more info: http://lighting.mbz.org/ Phred

Ozlime240Z. www.zcarparts.com (Motorsport Auto) has them listed @ $259.95 ea. Also check www.kspeed.com & www.racing-stuff.com I bought some 16x7 and fitted them with 225/50-16 BFG Comp TA Good Luck mate. Phred

This thread is exactly what I need. I am about to start installation of a 15 gal. Fuel Safe cell in my 240. The floor/tire well area has been removed, and the cell cage is next. I would like input on a problem you all have been discussing. I would like to have a flush "trunk" area, but am not sure I can mount everything low enough. The cell (with nice aluminum container) is 25x17x9.5 but the fittings and fill cap add another 1.5in so overall depth below the floor is 11in. Add 1in for the square tube frame and depth below floor is 12in. Do you think I will have sufficent ground clr. for a road race setup? Any advice will be welcome. Thanks guys. Phred

http://members.aol.com/drsideways/auto/index.htm

If anyone is in need of 80' calipers, I've changed my plans to install them on my Z and so they are for sale. They are in "as removed" cond. Also have the used discs. Make offer. Phred

Try: www.modern-motorsports.com www.arizonazcar.com Phred

Victor, I havn't bought stock 8mm rod bolts for years, but a call to your local Nissan dealer will reveal availability and price. Don't be surprised if they cost the same or more than ARP. Also, you can't go into an engine rebuild and expect to do even a halfassed job without spending some hard earned money. You wouldn't believe the number of people I've built engines for who don't have enough money to do it right the first time, but always have the money to do it twice. Phred

Tanny, I should clairify, and note the official Nissan communist Party Line on replacing rod bolts. These were designed as a one time stretch bolt. They recommend replacement at each rebuild. General Info: Rod bolts 101 A rod bolt maintains its torque through tensile strength. This is measured as elongation in the bolt when torque is applied. Typical bolt stretch is from .0055 to .0065 depending on the bolt type. When torque is removed, the bolt will "relax", and return to its original length. If too much torque is applied, the bolt will yield, or deform to a longer length than it was originally. when this happens, the clamping force is reduced or lost. The Nissan bolt will not return to its original length after being stretched. Therefor the second time the bolt is stretched, it will not create the same clamping force as it did originally. A poor design for sure. but thats the fact jack. Having said all that, I have used 9mm bolts over with no disaster taking place. But since the engines I've built have been for performance applications, I have never reused a stock 8mm bolt. Note: do not exceed 28lbs. with a stock 8mm bolt. Phred

Tanny, I have built several L-24's and have seen both 8mm & 9mm bolts in that year. It seems they just used up their bolt stock, and then switched over to 9mm at some unknown (to me) eng. #. The bolt is measured at the thread. If you have 8mm bolts and are rebuilding, replace the bolts with ARP #202-6002 8mm bolts. They are actually stronger ( in tensile strength) than a stock 9mm bolt. The torque for the ARP bolts is 30 lbs. with Moly lube. When replacing rod bolts, The big ends should be checked for cap shift, (ID roundness and taper) and proper brg. clr. with the caps torqued to spec. About 90% of the time they require resizing. Wherein a few thousanths are ground off the mating surfaces of the rod and cap, the caps are then torqued to spec, and then honed back out to the proper size, which makes them perfectly round, with the correct brg. clr. All this can only be done by a quality eng. rebuilding shop. Prefeably a race eng. shop. This can be done with the pistons attached. If you are also replacing pistons, you could also balance rods and pistons at this time if your budget allows. Hope this helps. Phred www.arp-bolts.com

Steve-O, In the engine compartment, on the right hand strut tower, there is a data plate with the info you seek. If the engine # matches the data plate #, its original. Thats what is meant when someone sells a collector car advertised as "numbers match". Phred

CoastGaurdZ, I was having a lousy day till I read this thread. What a hoot. I have been in the race business for many years, and even though I might be put off by the type of people you describe, ya gotta deal with them like their really humanoid. After all, a few of them are going to turn out to be good ol' hot rodders just like us. So hang in there. Also, thanks to you and your brother Coast Gaurd guys out here on the West coast. They saved my skinny back side one day about two miles off Depoe Bay, central Oregon coast. Phred

Externally excellent cond. Internal plastic is cracked so will not snap on tightly. $25.00 Money Order or Cashiers Check I will pay postage and ship USPS after payment recieved Phred fly.fred@verizon.net

Bill, I have been rebuilding heads for many years. If I was going to salvage an old head like yours, I would thow away the valves, springs, keepers(locks), rocker arms, and spray bar. If visual inspection of the retainers showed no unusual wear on the spring perch or lock taper, they could be used again. Also the spring seat shims(washers) are hard and can normally be used again. The mouse trap springs which retain the rockers can be reused if they were not bent out of shape when disassembled. Closely inspect the rocker ball adjusters. If they are smooth with no scarfs, they can be used again. The cam could be used again if checked and confirmed by micrometer that the lobes were not worn. If the lobes are not great, it is still valuble as a core for an aftermarket regrind. The cam thrust plate is normally reusable. Before you send the head to the scrap metal yard, save the cam towers and tie them together as a set. If someone damages a single cam tower, its very hard to fit a single replacement, but usually easy to replace as a set. If the cam tower dowels come out easy, save them too. machine shops sometimes lose them when pressure cleaning, and its nice to have a few spares laying around. Phred

I have a 5-speed I took out of a 1980 280ZX. There is a # 7Y19873 stamped on the top of the bellhousing, between the two top bolts. I also have an earlier (year unknown) 5-speed with #7(orZ)535361 in the same place. The only noticeable difference I found was in the shift lever fulcrum length. In the pic I have hopefully attatched, the shorter lever is out of the 1980. It measures about 1.5 in. from the center of the pivot pin bore, to the center of the lower ball. The longer lever measures about 1.75 in. It seems most of the people I talk to with early Z's with 5-speeds, have no idea which model Z it came out of. which means the ratios are unknown. If anyone has any info on the relationship of these numbers to model year, or any other method of identifying a 5-speed year by visual inspection, please post. Thanks. Phred

Rick Hanson: No, I did'nt need to carry any extra oil, But I did carry a set of points, and a coil. "Charles Lucas-Father of darkness" is not a myth. Phred

Steve77, Your old wives tale has some truth. The problem occured in years past when non detergent oils were popular. When some well meaning soul put a detergent oil in an old horse that had been raised on non detergent, The s__t would literally hit the fan. The detergent would loosen up the gooky stuff left over from old non detergent and it would start floating around and sometimes plug things up. They used to try and keep the oils from getting mixed up by putting a blue color band on the top of non detergent cans, and a red band on the detergent. However, all current detergent petroilum oils are compatible with synthetics. Not sure about the old Castrol R "bean" oil though. I ran that stuff back in the early seventys in a H-Prod Bugeye just cause I liked the way it smelled. Also, I too change synthetic oil every 2500 to 3000 mi. The oil is still perfectly good, but dirt, fuel contaminants, carbon, and other nasty stuff can not all be removed by the filter. Thats why it turns brown or black. Clean oil means life to your engine. I've been building mostly racing (and aircraft) engines for nearly thirty years, and have found clean oil to be the best insurance an engine can have for a long life. One last thing. Choosing a brand or wt. of oil is like having sex. Everybody has there own preference on how to go about it. But they all seam to get the job done ok. Phred