Phred

Brandon, I've built a few engines with similar specs, and it seems your results are not uncommon. You are at that point where its hard to have the best of both worlds. Thats a pretty big cam for the street. They will tend to feel boggy till you get in the range where they are ment to run. You are amplifing this condition by Installing larger chokes (venturi). The larger venturi size will slow down the velocity of the incoming air. You need higher velocity. By removing your velocity stacks, ( they named them correctly) you created turbulance at the entrance of the carb, and while it may have seemed better, your horsepower at peak was less. I've seen up to 10 HP lost with stacks removed. So what can you do? Its not practical to shorten an intake manifold. Most all brands are about the same lenght. But you could put on the real short stacks that TWM offers.(find them on the Web) Another trick to try is to advance your cam a couple degrees. This will have the effect of moving the power band down slightly, making a bit more power down low. Making your flat spot a bit less bothersome. Also, Different venturis require different jetting. You might need to get one of those mixture sensors, or an EGT gauge to nail down the proper jetting. Getting the jetting right can make a world of difference, drivabilty wise. Its a tough problem, one which you might not be able to totally cure, but you should be able to make it better. Good luck buddy. Phred

Well. This is no rottisserie, but it serves the same function, and as a shop roll-around when its not up on its side. The "handles" can be slippid in either side of the roll-around, and using over center weight distribution, the handles then become the "feet" for the whole thing. I can give you more details if your interested in building one. Phred

I just lightened a stock 1980 ZX flywheel. It started out at just over 24 lbs. I suppose they vary a bit, depending on the casting and how much was factory balanced out of it. So when you talk of a shaved fly at 22 lbs, it probably had the easy weight taken off. There's a lug of material just behind the ring gear thats easy to machine off, and its about two pounds or so. After that, you have to start being more of a machinist. (which I am) I was very conservative, and took out 6lbs. for a total weight of 18lbs. The Centerforce Dual Friction clutch weights 10 lbs. I saw a 12 lb. cast fly, and it scared me. Lite steel is good. lite cast, bad. has to do with metalergy and strength of materials. Just for comparison, a Cosworth BDD Formula Atlantic engine uses a steel fly on the order of 5 to 7 lbs. and they commonly shift at 9,500 to 10,500 RPM. and I havn't seen one fail in Twenty years.

Hi Team, I'm building a 71Z as a Vintage SCCA car. I have been reading all the comments on the Quaife/Gleason/Torson units. I have chosen to use the R-180 for the weight savings it offers. I have a 3.9:1, however I need to pull it apart to measure the ring gear, as Quaife offers units in both 110mm, and 115mm ID. Unless I can find a used one for sale, I'll be ordering one in a month or two. I"ll let you know how it goes. Phred