catfish78

Great news! I started systematically checking electrical components and cleaning up connections. I started with the fusible links, and although they didn't look too bad, the metal was not shiny. Took some sand paper and a file, cleaned out around the links and put it all back together. Next day, turned it over and started no problem! No issues with starting cold. Great when things go your way. For those 280z owners out there, I did come across an article at the Atlantic Z club that dealt with trouble shooting electrical for fuel injection systems specifically.

surfing around I found a fantastic tech tip at the Atlantic Z club web site on cleaning connections. I've used this site many times in the past. Great for the do-it-yourselfer's out there! Looks like I've got my work cut out for me this weekend.

bad news, no improvement :disappoin Cleaning up the contacts didn't make a difference today. Tried to start it and it turned over and over and over... Wiggled the connections and associated wiring and it started no problem. Disconnected all the wiring with the suspect relay tonight, at least I feel better that it looks cleaner. Could be any number of wiring connections, guess I'll have to eliminate each potential problem one by one to get to the root cause. Thanks for listening. Any more insight would be welcome! PS - any other 280z owners out there, if you could post a pic of the same area of your engine bay so I could see what the wiring looks like I'd appreciate it. Wiring diagrams are great, but as they say a picture says a thousand words!

Thanks for the tips, guys. Like I said, the relay looks about as old as the car is so it was hard to tell if it was original or not. With that solved, I'm pulling it out. I disconnected the red wire from the suspect relay that was spliced to the white wire, tried starting it and didn't get it to fire. Pulled apart the wiring harnesses for the white wires and a pile of corrosion fell out. Cleaned up the contacts and it did finally start. Looks like the wiring harnesses had a poor connection and when the wires were wriggled it got just enough juice to start it. If I have trouble starting tomorrow when it's cold, likely that relay and the associated wiring is too corroded. I'll try this theory tomorrow and repost to let you know!

my bad, first post didn't take pic! I edited and added pic after it was posted.

Nope, the coil on my car is located on the driver's side of the engine bay, close to the air flow meter. The relay in the picture that I'm referring to is the one with 4 visible wires coming out of it (2 red, 2 black). It's right on the curved part of the strut tower (sorry, first time posting a picture. I couldn't figure out how to add an arrow to the part I'm talking about).

OK, here's one for you guys. I recently installed a stereo in my 280Z and came across this 'relay' against the passenger side strut tower. I suspect it is some sort of fuel pump shut off to the electric fuel pump as one of the wires lead to a toggle switch on the console. Well of course I had to figure out where the other 3 of the 4 wires go that come out of this relay. One is grounded on the front of the car, one is connected to the white wire (in picture) that hooks up to the battery and the last one dead ends 2 feet from the relay. The one connected to the battery has an inline fuse that is so corroded I think the relay stopped working for the PO some time ago. My problem is this: while installing my stereo I wiggled some of these wires in search of a live wire to my stereo. The next day, I couldn't start the car, it would just turn over and did not seem to fire. I suspected this relay had something to do with it. So I cleaned up the connections and voila it started. Well for the past few days, it's done the same thing. So I wiggle the connections around this relay and once again it starts. Now this is the kicker, I only have this problem when the car is dead cold. When it is warm, even after a few hours of sitting, it starts no problem. I've cleaned up all the connections, still no better. I've even disconnected all the wires to this relay when it is running and the car keeps running! :tapemouth If any of you guys can cast some light on this I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Mike

The metal around the frame is very sound but for some reason these cups have detached. Everything else is also in very good shape, including the T/C rod. This is my very concern with the lateral movement, this will put pressure on the metal and begin carving out the metal around the hole where the T/C rod goes through. I'll need a shop to fabricate these cups as there is not enough metal left on them to tack weld onto the frame.

Hi guys. I just finished replacing the bushings on my T/C rods - Thanks to Blue's tech tips at the Atlantic Z club! I had a problem however with the cups that hold the bushings in place on the frame. This cup is supposed to be pressed into the frame and is not removable. Well on my car the cups are rusted and have detached from the frame. I've called my mechanic at a local z shop and he didn't think you can buy any replacement components for these. I've gone ahead and replaced the bushings, washers and sleaves anyway. I put the cups into the bushings and torqued down the T/C rod to the frame. I couldn't feel any discernable 'play' in the end of the T/C rod even though the cups are pretty much floating against the frame. Anyone else have this problem and found a fix? What complications will I have if I leave this set up as is? Thanks for your feedback.

Hey Ryan, I was just up in your neck of the woods last week! Spent a week in Kelowna on vacation with the family. As far as gas prices, not much better in Langley 1.029 this morning. :eek: The best place to fill up if you ever come to Vancouver is to stop in at Abbotsford, off the Clearbrook exit. Gas sells around there for around 14 cents a litre cheaper than in Vancouver. I drive to Abbotsford daily to go to work so I do some comparative shopping every day. Price this morning in Abby was 89.9, plus another 3.5 cents off discount at the pump. Good luck on your car and welcome to the club! Mike

Welcome to the club, Ryan. I'm a little late replying to your post, I just got back from vacation and was checking out the latest news. I'm not sure where you are in BC, but there are a lot of z guys around the lower mainland that can help you out. Let me know if you need any info. BTW, nice car! Hope you can afford to drive it with the way fuel costs have risen over the past few months.

I spoke to a fellow locally and he knew of the BC Z registry but sounds like there was some parting of the ways between the members and the club broke up. He said there was some loose organization of z owners but had no leads for me. Thanks for your help guys. And if I am ever in the southern Okanagan, I will definitely give you a call! Mike

Hi guys. New to the club and want to introduce myself. I have a 1978 280z 5-speed, I'm the 2nd owner. I purchased it from the original owner this past December. I didn't really have a clue what to look for in a Z when I bought it, other than I wanted a 5-speed first generation as close to stock as possible. I've always liked the car ever since my friend in high school had a 240z (that was almost two decades ago!). Ever since then I've been looking on and off for one to restore when this one came up and I couldn't pass it up. So I've cautiously started doing some work on it since I bought it. I had a restoration guy replace the floor boards and frame rails, I've replaced the carpets and weatherstripping all around. Recently had the clutch and transmission overhauled. I am currently working on replacing the bushings myself in the front suspension. I live in Vancouver, BC and I'd like to hook up with a z club around the area. I could really use the help in my ongoing restoration. Hopefully you guys will be able to help over the net as well. Any suggestions or anyone know of some contacts in this neck of the woods, I'd appreciate the help. Thanks, Mike