Rob

The inside of the cam covers on my Westfield are powder coated and it has never caused a problem. They have been like that for five years and the powder coat is still there, good as new (The car has only done 6000km in that time so it hasn't had an exhaustive test though).

I might have one off a 260. I'll let you know tomorrow.

Thanks for sharing Seriously, that's good advice. When I was studying materials chem at uni we learned about sensitisers, which are things that your body will cope with up to a point, before developing an allergic reaction. IIRC paint thinners was a known sensitiser.

Stick an 5 or 6mm allan key in one of the bellhousing bolt holes and spin it clockwise until it hits the ring gear. Locks it up nicely.

Don't worry, I just knocked on a bit of wood Good luck with the sale

Dude, you sure you want to let them go? They could come in really handy if some goose runs into the back of you. My 260 is insured but I still had to help the panel beater find parts for it when somebody ran up the back of me... They don't take up much room either. Just tell "motheral" that they are part of a uni assignment on light diffraction :nervous:

That sounds like a great deal, Why are you selling them? You're still building a GTR replica aren't you? Just curious...

Thanks G260. Another handy contact. He can get new ones. Apparently they are still available from Nissan if you know the right people. $240 each but.

Hello all, I need two inner tie rod ends (the ones that go inside the steering rack) for a 75 260Z. Nissan don't list them any more, neither does my regular parts shop. Does anybody know where I can get these? Preferably in Australia, but will order from US if I have to. Thanks

I know this sounds dumb, but have you undone the centre bolt? It's just that, from the photos, it looks like it might be still there. Other than that, the only think I could suggest is a good soaking with WD40, and put some grease on the thread of the puller. You could try some gentle heat (like from a heat gun), but only as a very last resort 'cause you don;t want to melt the rubber in the balancer Good luck

Never got them here in Australia, but I have seen one that was bought cheap from an importer.

I have a car just like this only without rust in my backyard. I can guarantee that it would be cheaper to buy mine and ship it to the US than it would be to restore that thing

A funny thing happened to me at a rally on the weekend that made me remember this thread... Here's what happened: I was navigating in a pretty competitive Ford Escort. We bent the LH steering arm on the first stage, did the second stage with wonky steering and went into the service park to fix it. We tried to adjust the wheel alignment around the bent arm but discovered there wasn't enough thread on the tie rods so we had to change it. Due to some confusion and stress, we didn't realise we only had a spare for the RH side until the LH side was removed. At about this time, Gemma, a friend of mine, noticed that the Escort was supported on stands but the LH front wheel was sitting next to the car, instead of underneath it, so if the car fell off the stands it would not have stopped until it hit the ground. So she put the wheel under the car. About thirty seconds later, I was under the car trying to figure out how to fit a RH steering arm to a LH strut (with no success at all), when the jack stands sunk into the ground and tipped over. I heard somebody shout "OOOHHHH" just before I saw the car drop and felt my head starting to be squashed between the radiator support panel of the Escort and the dirt with the amount of pressure you would expect from the weight of a car. It stopped squashing when it hit the wheel that Gemma put under the car moments before, which left just enough room for my head to be well and truly clamped down, but not squished. About a tenth of a second later, a crowd of people lifted the car off me and I crawled out with nothing more than a few cuts and bruises, a headache, and a whole new attitude about jack stands and soft ground.

If I were you I would a: return to the shop and very politely ask them to fix the car the way you wanted it done. You are likely to get a lukewarm reception, however if you can explain to them that you don't want to cause trouble, you just want your car the way you said you wanted it, you may have some luck. This approach has worked for me once. If the above fails; * get a quote from a body shop to get the hole repaired * get a quote from another speed shop to get the press bends replaced with mandrels and the radiator hose replaced with silicon, and for the BOV to be moved. * Find the government department that deals with shonky traders (we call them consumer affairs down here), and see if they will take up your cause for you. Good luck

If you just want to get it going then I've got a set of 260Z carbs here. They work fine for 260Z carbs. You can have them for what they're worth. Nothing! (As long as you pay postage from Canberra)

For vertical welds on thin sheet, try doing the weld as a series of overlapping dots by: 1. Aim at start of weld 2. pull trigger for about 1 second 3. aim for the edge of the 1/4" dot you just created 4. wait for one second 5. repeat from step two until complete You will find that you can use more voltage without blowing through using this technique.

You might want to write down the rego and make enquiries with the Police. They should be hassling the owner to move their car anyway so they may be able to give them your number so you can make them an offer. It the Police are in a good mood that is... Sad thing is, if it sit there for a couple of days...:dead:

A few years ago I pulled the square top Hitachi SU things off my 260 and put on a single Weber 32/36 carb. Better in every possible way: cold start; hot start; power; economy; responsivness. I think the level of improvement had a lot to do with the crappiness of the late Hitachi SUs though.

That's a nice car. I have a good exhaust manifold that came off my 260Z. Know anybody coming to Canberra? $20 sound fair?

Why, Oh why, did it have to be a 2+2? I think I have an exhaust mainfold. I'll have a look tonight.

For my sister's Silvia I got an alarm from Jaycar, replaced the convenient multi-coloured wring with all black, and spent two days wiring it into every part of the car I could think of. Didn't cost much and should confound any theif without a forklift. Before I did it I spoke to a couple of alarm places and one said not to fit a fuel pump immobiliser on its own as that's the first thing that theives look for.

It's pretty common for doors to be hard to close for a while after fitting new seals, until they squoosh down a bit. Is it possible that the seals just needed squooshing time or was there no chance of the door closing?

That's a very nice car. It's very fortunate that converting a Z from auto to manual doesn't involve cutting anything:classic:

Is the bum of a 2+2 wider than a coupe?