Rob

Don't think a twin cam head exists for the L26 but that's OK, just go an RB20DET or RB25DET (Skyline motors). Fuel injection off a 280ZX or a DR30 Skyline (the really ugly L24 powered ones) will fit an L26 easily. Just have to drill and tap four new holes in the head and carve out some injector reliefs in the ports. Takes about an hour to modify the head, then about two weeks to wire up the injection and fit high pressure fuel pumps etc:)

You should find two plugs screwed in to the rear cover of the diff. Fill through the top one until it dribbles out.

What's stopping you from visiting your local friendly exhaust shop and asking them to bend something up for you?

Good luck dude, not that you'll need it. Throw a battery in it and I'll bet it'll fire up! It is a Datsun after all! About five years ago I was givan an old Subaru that had been sitting outside for about 12 years. A new battery and it started second time on 12 year old fuel! Ah, Japanese cars. So easy.

Did you mean 1500 miles on the rebuilt engine or 1500 miles on the whole car? I'm in the wrong country to comment on price but if that car has 1500 miles on it then surely it's worth a lot 'cause it would have to be one of a kind!

A friend of mine brought a Lancia from London to Sydney in late 2000 and paid £1200 frieght, then 50% of the value of the car to the John Howard retirement fund once the car hit Sydney. Nice car too. Was well worth the effort:)

The paint really lets it down:( Underneath the cracked brown paint is a nice original straight rust free 260 though:) Once I've saved up a few $$$ It will start looking a bit better.

In case it helps, I just put two jpeged wiring diagrams for a '75 260 on the thread "AMP meter off the scale".

And here's the one for the rest of the world that knows which side of the road to drive on zwiringrhd.zip

Well done! I had just finished scanning these so here they are anyway, just in case anybody wants them... Here's the one for US (LHD): zwiringlhd.zip

Wow! a nice '89 GTR for $NZ30K! http://www.autopoint.co.nz/marketplace/UsedCarDetail.asp?ID=1976390&Criteria=%40Make%3D%27NISSAN%27%2C+%40Model%3D%27SKYLINE%27%2C+%40OrderBy%3D%27P2%27&NoOfRecs=165&PageNo=1&chkRows=500 I'm off to check on import laws... Don't really want to part with my Z but I have got to get one of those Skylines! As an aside, apparently a good 240Z is worth more than a good R32 GTR in Japan. Maybe I should see if anyone over there wants to swap...

Hello everybody I've been meaning to post this for a while, just in case anybody is interested. As a result of coming across a crashed Silvia (200sx) cheap (US$50), I found myself with a spare FJ20 driveline. As the old L26 in my Z could easily be beated off the line by a good pushbike (no joke - it actually happened!), and the Silvia was a pretty quick car before it was crashed, I figured why not make the most of what I had! The swap wasn't hard, took about 8 weeks of nights and weekends, and included: * making engine mounts * gearbox crossmember * wiring the ecu * cutting into the tank to fit a submerged fuel pump * making mounts to fit the Silvia radiator * putting the workings of the Silvia tacho into the Z housing Since I wasn't convinced this swap was a good idea until I finished, I did all the above without even drilling a hole in the original Z, so I could put it back the way it was if I wanted to. The entire cost of the conversion including a new exhaust was US$300. Now the Z goes about twice as fast, uses half the fuel, starts every time, and if I need more power I'll get the turbo version of the fj20 and bolt it straight in! Here's some pics: I'll fix the paint when I can afford it!

OK I'll post it tomorrow. I took one look at the external regulator wiring in my Z, got confused, and fitted an internal reg alternator out of a Nissan Silvia (200SX). Much simpler!

I have no idea where that wire goes but I found a wiring diagram for my 75 260 in the owners manual (those were the days!). I don't have it with me right now but I'm guessing it would show how the VR is wired. Let me know if it would help and I will scan it and upload it.

According to the guy I bought my Zed off, the original owner said that the dash started to crack after only about two years of Australian South Coast sun (which isn't that harsh). The dash I had recovered (for a Ford Escort) is still going strong five years later. So assuming that any dash you would buy from Nissan is new old stock, it probably wouldn't last long. So send it down under!

zep; Trade you my Z for a Skyline GTR? I'll pay the freight!

Nice work What's the story with the boxes? Do they somehow let you into the cubby holes they sit on top of? Good idea to put the speakers there, as the ones in my car are right at the back and you can't hear them when you are going on a trip and the hatch is full of gear.

Those Japanese carbs drove me mental so I tore them off about 12 months after buying my Z, so I don't have actual experience, and I'm not sure what you mean by 'idle limiter cap'. (Could be an American/Australian terminology difference) Assuming you mean the idle adjustment screw, you just turn it until you get the idle speed you are looking for. If you mean the idle mixture screw, use 1.5 turns from seated as a start, then wind it out until the motor starts to stumble from being too rich, then wind it in 1 turn. Don't know if this helps but good luck.

Probably doesn't need attention unless your brakes are feeling really hard. As it's such a simple device it doesn't usually give trouble unless brake fluid from a leaky master cylinder has gotten inside it. So I reckon you'd be better off leaving it alone. If it is broken I think you can open it up yourself and service it, but I have never had to work on one so I can't really help you here. Hope this helps Rob.

Injection is great, especially on a Zed, as those wacky Hitachi SU things don't seem to work (they didn't on my 260 anyway!). So definately go to injection, but you are probably better off using a 280zx / Skyline manifold than grafting injectors and throttle bodies on to a stock manifold because: * It's a lot less work * The standard computer will be tuned to a standard plenum chamber manifold. Admittedly this shouldn't make too much difference as they use an air flow meter instead of a manifold pressure sensor, so you may get away with it, but don't be too surprised if it's out of tune. * Having driven my Westfield (kit car) with both the standard manifold and then with quad throttle bodies, I can say that having a plenum makes stuff all actual difference to respose (On a Toyota 1600 anyways) Note: If you decide to use the Skyline/280zx manifold, you will have to cut injector scollops into your ports and drill and tap four extra holes into your head. (Cylinder head that is ). Best of luck with it!

OK here they are... The speakers under the seats... The tweeter stuck (with double sided tape) to the windscreen... The rear speakers (the panel is held in by the original luggage straps)... I reckon the sound from this set up is great and I didn't have to drill a single hole in my Z! Hope this helps

Pics are on their way... I'll get the digital camera this weekend!

I didn't want to cut my door either when I put speakers in so I made up panels and stuck them under the front of the seats. This worked great but the sound seemed a bit 'low' so I stuck tweeters in the lower corners of the windscreen. Now it sounds fine and I didn't have to cut anything! I can post pics if anyone is interested.

Before I discovered the angle iron + big hammer trick I tried prising the halves apart with some sharp screwdrivers but I was chewing up the aluminium (and my knuckles:() too much. The thing I liked about the angle iron + big hammer trick was that it didn't chew up anything (except for the angle which looks a bit second hand now)