Rob

This one was! It was like they had used araldite instead of sealant! I'm glad to hear they aren't usually that tenacious but I'm keeping the angle iron just in case!

Get brutal! The only way that I could get mine apart was to cut an 18" bit of 2" x 2" angle iron, drill two holes in it so I could bolt it to where the mount goes, hold the bell housing and belt the bejesus out of the bit of angle iron with a big steel mallet. The box came apart fairly easily with no damage. If you do this make sure the bolts you use to hold the angle iron are REALLY tight.

Yeah I've done it to my 260Z. I used a 180B gearbox (I had one handy and by the look of the gear sizes it wouldn't be much weaker than the six cylinder one, and it has now lasted two years with no probs) I also used the clutch and flywheel from a four cylinder, as I had these lying around. They have also lasted fine. (of course, if you are going out and buying stuff, you may as well buy the six cylinder stuff, but if someone gives you the four cylinder stuff, don't be afraid to use it!) I found the pedal boxes themselves were identical, So if mine was still OK and not cut up for a disabled driver mod I could have used it and just changed the pedals, which would have saved time as it was a full mornings work swapping pedal boxes. I got a second hand master cylinder which worked fine, and I found it cheaper to use a bit of dash 3 braided line for the plumbing than to buy factory rubber brake hose. The great thing was that the tailshaft, gearbox crossmember, and speedo cable all bolted up! Oh and I used the old auto console with a boot grafted on to it. Looks fine! Costs: gearbox: free (probably would have been $100) clutch and flywheel: free (probably would have been $50) pedal box & master cyl: $50 slave cyl (new): $25 braided line: $30 gear oil: $20 Time: fit pedal box : 6 hours fit gearbox and get running: 5 hours As you can see, it was no big deal really. Hope this helps.

suntadz, I have tried a rotisserie built from something like two engine stands and caused a fair bit of damage to the Ford Escort that was attached to it, as one stand tipped over :eek: (I didn't take any pics - I'll leave it to your imagination) While surveying the damage and feeling fairly depressed (and very dumb), I concluded that: The track width of an engine stand is'nt wide enough to be stable. For a rotisserie to work properly there needs to be a full frame underneath for the wheels to attach to, to stop them going in different directions. Phred, That thing looks like a great idea! How hard is it tip on its side with a Z body bolted to it? Can two peple do it?

I've got a book that is nothing but magazine road tests of Zs. Can't remember what it's called but the same mob do books like this for all sorts of cars. I'll dig it up and post the title if that helps.

Sounds like the earth wire isn't connected. When this wire isn't connected the headlight bulb seems to earth itself through the high beam filment which makes both high and low beam glow dimly. Easy way to check this is to run a temporary wire from the earth pin on the bulb (not sure which one it is - anybody know?) and touch it to a good earth - the front bumper comes to mind. If I'm right the headlight should glow brightly. Then it's just a matter of figuring out why there is no earth to that headlight, or cheating and running a separate earth wire to the body

geevum, Was there a happy ending? I would have taken the car for sure but I'm a bit too far away!

G'day, I've owned my 2 seater 260Z for two years now and I don't think I can live with the 260Z tail lights any longer. I reckon 240Z ones look much better . A: Does anybody know if the 240Z taillights and surround will fit a 260Z? B: Does anyone have/know where I can get the tailights and surround? (In Australia preferably ) Thanks