Doehring

Ed, thank you. I did it like you did and it looks the same. Does anyone know whether this is correct? A mistake in the steering could end bad to us so please let us know. At the Codrivers side the bushing matched properly. Rolf

Hi all, I try to change my driver side steering rack bushing to an urethan one from G-Machine. I'm successless. Whatever I try, at the cut i have a gap of about 1,5 cm. Has the cut-side to be upside or downside? Thanks for your help Rolf

I love my white interior in my yellow Z

Thanks for your input. Compared to ZTherapy's proposal the float level was okay. I changed to an electric fuel pump and the problem is gone, don't know why. Rolf

Hi all, I rebuilt my carbs 'cause I had the well known problem that there was a "rev limiter" at 5000 rpm. This problem was discussed in another thread up to 2 weeks ago. The engine now runs fine and the colour of the spark plugs is ideal, but when I have to stop for instance at a red light the engine starts to die (revs go down to 100 rpm) for a short time, than idle goes up to normal (700 rpm) again. I didn't have that effect before the carbs tuning. Any idea what is wrong and what I have to do? Thanks Rolf

Fred, that picture is great. I think Arnie will like it, too. That Austrian "Mussleparcel" seems still to have that humor that is typical for the "Oetzis".

26th-Z, you are welcome! When I look at the german Z-ZX-Club register I think that there are not more than 20 240Zs here in Germany. We have some more 260Zs (incl.2+2), perhaps up to 5 280 Z, about 6o-100 280 ZX that survived the rusty winters and some 300 Z(mainly Turbos) and Twin Turbos. In Porsche-, BMW-, Audi- and Mercedes-Land the Z/ZX never became that popular. Don't forget, Ferrar-, Alfa-, Maserati- and Lancialand is nearby as well as GB and France - other great sportscar producers. Japan is so far away! (As well as Mustang- or Corvette-Land). The Z and ZX series were quite expensive here all the time, the garages quite rare and most shops small. Spares are a big problem, I'm really depending on your good Services in the US - and that's expensive, too: Take any MSA or Vic Brit price, add the UPS or FedEx rate to overseas (sometimes higher than the parts value), add 8% import tax on the parts and than put another 16% Value Added Tax on the addition you did before. Life would be easier with Porsche fever than Z fire! Rolf

Daniel, have a good time here in Germany. Munich has it's regional Z Club. Look - if you want - into the Telephone Book for Fred Schuster-Orth. Can you now imagine what it means to run a 240z , a Twin Turbo or the new 350 Z flat out? Did you run on a normal bavarian alps country road at the allowed speed limit of 65 mph? Isn't that fun? Can you now imagine why US highways like the one from Tucson via Yuma to LA was an absolutely boring horror trip to me and why I loved the Apache Trail between Globe and Apache Junction on my way to Phoenix? The Smart Coupe and Roadster are real High Tech cars and the little City Smart runs really 100 mph on the Autobahn, but it's made for the city and there it is great as long as you don't have to carry the big bavarian beer boxes. By the way; I'm living between Cologne and Bonn overlooking the river Rhine valley, 400 mls away from Munich. Rolf

Blitzkraig, I had a similar problem. I took that little screw at the side of the piston, that fixes the needle, out , put W40 in and let it soak over night. Í than cleaned the needle and took a stripe of leather around the needle as a protection against scratces by the vice grip that I used carefully. From the other side I tried to move the needle with a little screwdriver through the hole of the fixing screw. It took some time but it worked. The problem seems to be that the fixing screw hurts the needle's shoulder and that little deformation makes the needle stick. When it's out sand it with a very fine wet sandpaper until it fits smoothly. Good luck Rolf

Hi Victor and 240ZMan, to me it's always astonishing how much knowledge the forum members all together have. Up to now I never read or heared what Victor wrote about the different advance curves and the dizzies. Thanks ! Rolf

Daniel, there was absolutely no problem to advance the timing. Are you shure your timing marker at the engine and the marks on the disk are correct? My first Z had once gotten another disk because of the added smog pump and the correct timing was not at Cylinder 1 but at No.4 ! What I did, I took out the No. 1 plug and put into the hole a slim stick instead. I turned the engine slowly and when the piston came up the visible end of the stick went down, like a lever. At the lowest point I looked at the marker to see if it is in line with the mark for 0° on the disc. Another possibility that you can't advance your timing enough might be that the dizzy isn't in the right position. Did you find the other discussions in the engine forum? Good luck Rolf

You wrote your timing is advanced 7° degrees. I think the manual mentions 17° advance. Can you find out the advance at 5000 rpm? I read it should be 32° (Rebello?). I have the same problem as you and it became better when I put the advance at idle (650rpm) to 20°. Perhaps I have to do even more. Before that with my car the funny thing was that it felt like a rev limiter already at 4500 rpm but when I lifted the gas pedal for a short time and pressed it again, the revs went up to 5500 and more before after some time the shaking started again. That's why I also believed in a fuel problem. In another thread here your (and my) problem was already discussed and there the solution after a long discussion and some trial and error actions was the timing. Good luck Rolf

Thanks 240ZX. Some time ago I saw a realy very old french motorbike that had a nicely polished copper fuel line. Cyclists always lived in danger.

Beandip, yes, I got the blockage out. Before I pushed with the long core wire of a bycyle's rear brake-drawing into the fuel line I blew W40 into it overnight. The blockage was a little piece of rubber (maybe from the upper rubberhose connection between the body's return line and the return line around the engine's cover). That was pressed by the first wire, the one that I used from the front and that broke, inside the fuel line at one of the bends at the firewall. By the way, you mentioned copper. What copper would be the right one in case someone of us has a similar problem and goees for copper? Thanks Rolf