Everything posted by Doehring
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fuel return tube
240 ZX, thank you for the good explanation, esp. concerning that little block. I always wondered how it works. Over the weekend I took the fuel return pipe off at it's end and pushed the wire out from the rear. Rolf
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fuel return tube
My '72Z's fuel return pipe is closed. So I tried to open it with a wire. That thin wire broke inside the tube and now I'm at the end of my wisdom. Question 1: What will happen to my driving with a closed fuel return pipe, are there any dangers like SU carb overflow and fuel dropping out and on the hot exhaust or too rich mixture or ... ? Question 2: Any ideas what to do? The possibility to get a tube at a wreckyard is near to 0 here. Question 3: Is it an easy job to take off that tube from the rear (tank) and to work from that end and is there anything to take care of, like valves for instance ? Thanks in advance Rolf
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Rally du Bandama 1973
Sorry, another item: Is it the same car on Guus' and Alan's pictures? Not only the lamps are different, als the side mirror and why should that be changed in case of a front crash. I also can't believe that the factory drivers used a blue car. I always thought it was a private entry, maybe a french. Rolf
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Rally du Bandama 1973
Are you shure it's '73 and that it is no private entry? The poster was once published in the german "Rallye +Racing" magazine and I have it at home. Another centerfold was Metha's jumping 260Z at the Acropolis. I have that, too. Unfortunately the magazine's publisher is sold and the old staff did not join the new one, else I could ask there. Rolf
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Rich SU Carb <- Newbie
silv3r72, Good luck! I did that job without taking the carbs off. I unplugged the choke and when I tried to move the shaft up and down I felt that sticking. So I cleaned the underside and the whole mechanism and oiled it carefully. I also took off the piston with needle, turned the mixture screw at first fully in so that it was in level with the bridge. After that I slightly loosened the needle in the piston, pulled it a little bit out and put the piston with that loose needle back into the shaft. By that the needle's shoulder came in line with the shaft and closed the gap (means totally lean mixture). After that I fixed the needle in the piston and turnde the mixture screw until the shaft was 1,5 mm lower than the level of the bridge. That was my starting position for the fine tuning of the mixture. That took me a lot of time 'cause I didn't do it with the colortune that I have but by looking at the plug No. 2 about every 50 mls of normal drive.
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Rich SU Carb <- Newbie
Sorry, I'm not a mechanic and english is not my mother-language so I have some problems to find the correcct technical idioms and words. Let me try: At a SU the air-fuel-mixture becomes richer when the little distance between the needle and the shaft becomes bigger. This happens either when the vacuum sucks the piston up (when accelerating) or when you screw the shaft down by turning the mixture screw or when the choke pulls the shaft down. When there is sticky dirt around the shaft and the choke had been pulled once ago it can happen that the shaft goes not fully back upwards. By that the mixture becomes too rich. So make shure that the shaft works propery, does not stick and goes fully up to the basic position that is done by the mixture screw.In case you are then still too rich you have to lean the mixture. A great help to understand your SUs is the ZTherapy video. Rolf
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Early morning
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Rich SU Carb <- Newbie
Greengooey, turn only the front carb leaner but clean it at first. There often is oil and dirt around the up and down going needle seat and maybe that by that even the choke doesn't work free and always is a little pulled. In that case you must not lean the fuel mixture 'cause the choke makes it too fat. Check that first. Good luck Rolf
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Z on Nurburgring
Guus and all european friends, Festival of speed can be a good place to meet. Guus is right although I think the entrance to the festival including the presentation of the car is 25 EURO, the person without a car is 15. The Nuerburgring north loop ( F1 driver Jackie Stewart called it the "green hell") is absolutely great. Dangerous for us car drivers are the motorbikes; you will see what I mean when you are there. What you should do is to study the map (see www-link above) exactly. Enlarge it on your screen and work out what you think is the best line. You should have the 21 km in your head, curve by curve! If you are fast and happy in the one section you are quite shure too fast in the next section and get in troubles. Take care Rolf
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Z on Nurburgring
Hi Guus, thanks for the hint . In the net take www.nuerburgring.de choose a language, enter, go to "Termine" and than to "Vollstandige Monatsübersicht". August will arrive but choose "September" in the line on top.. Click on 13./14. September "Festival of Speed". When this side is open go onto "Clubs und Enthusiasts am RinG" and you have the girl at the right top. I don't know if the northern loop is open to the public during "Festival of speed" but at least you can olace your car for the show, as they advertise. If you take the webside www. nuerburgring.de you can immediatly go to "Opening times northern loop" but in that case the boys can't see what sometimes may go on beside the northern loop.
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Z on Nurburgring
Guus, Sept. 13./14. there is the Festival of Speed, an International Motorsports and Tuning Festival at Nuerburgring Rolf
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stuttering......
Dero, I had the same problem. I got that great ZTherapy video (Thanks Pam!) and I did to my SU's what I could do. I even made one set of needles slimmer to get more fuel in the middle range. Looking at the plugs I got a good mixture with only 2 turns out (Needle shaft downwards 1,5 mm). It became much better, but not totally. I than advanced the Ignition from 17 to 20 BTC and it became much better. The problem is now only when I accelerate under load (uphill). I will try 23 degrees the next time, using a 98 octane fuel. I think the ignition is the key when everything else is okay. Good luck Rolf
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240Z Electronic Ignition upgrade
The Pertronix Ignitor works fine, is easy to install and not so expensive Rolf
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Diesel Crank.
Hi, what is the reason why you want to go for a diesel crank in the L 28 and what else do you have to change to reach your targets? Thanks for the explications in advance Rolf
- Refreshed rear
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Z at sunset, pt 2
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The red Z strike again...
Sorry, it's not a Porsche 917 but a Chevron in John Wyer colours behind that nice Z!
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The red Z strike again...
Thanks, missed the arrow on top 'cause I scrolled down. I love that Z in front of a Porsche 917. Rolf
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The red Z strike again...
Fred, sorry for that! Is your camera a french one? If not, you see others also strike sometimes. By the way, I can't find a pic of the Z at Charade's gallery, that's a pity. Rolf
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The red Z strike again...
Fred, did you shoot pictures? Please add, if possible. Vive la Tour de FranZ Rolf
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Pea brain security
Tanny, could it have fallen out of the basket on your way through the store or to the car? Perhaps they found it in the store when cleaning the floor. Did you ask Alpine for an replacement? Good luck! Rolf
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Club watch
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unleaded fuel
Bonjour, normally a turbo has less compression than a NA , so you might need Normal. Nevertheless, security first, my recommendationis Eurosuper and an additive. In my 240 Z I even use 100 oct Shell V-power and an additive. The V-power's km-efficiency is a little better so it isn't that expensive. May be for the Turbo 100 octan is too much, so prefer - as mentioned - Eurosuper. Rolf
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help....spark or fuel problem
Hi all, my stock '72Z has the same problem and up to now I couldn't find a solution. Whatever I did, it became worse. Timing, gap, plugs, everything is alright. So I cleaned the carbs, found the choke sticking and made it work properly, the carbs are balanced, the float level and float bowls (see my gallery) are set, still problems above 4500 rpm under load. I started experimenting with the needles. In the end at about 4500 rpm both carbs started backfireing and black smoke came out of the exhaust at the same time. One explanation could be that the mixture is too fat on the one hand and that at the same time there is a lack of fuel for milliseconds (not enaugh fuel ?). So I will try to go back to the original setting of the needles/carbs and start to study the ztherapy video that I got today (Nice people there at ztherapy!). Nevertheless, my feeling is that the fuel pump or the lines make the problem. Drecord, let me know what you find out. I hope we all together can find the right way what to do. Thanks to everybody for the input on that. Rolf
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Looking for a good Roll Bar
Marty, in my Z is the MSA roll bar. It suits fine. Look at my gallery, "Angie innen top" shows the bar. Rolf