Doehring

Thank you all, I will look for the problem the next days. At first I will check all the hoses around the vapour tank, I can't imagine its a rear gasket 'cause the worst smell appeared in the garage when the car stood still for a nightand the smell was extensive in the rear compartment. Poindexter's graph showed a possibility to get rid of the vapour tank. Any experiances with that? Rolf

These cars belong to a group called "slowly sideways". You can get more infos in the net looking for "slowky sideways". The group was founded by Rheinhard Klein, a Race and Rallye Photographer. They are not interested in Vintage Cars but in saving elder works rallye cars (and some remakes, like the 240Z on one of the pics. That belongs to our friend "Z-point"). Most of the cars are privatly owned but sometimes a works museum (like AUDI's) gives a car to a professional driver. Great show!

Thankyou Poindexter, I will look for the vapour tank region first. I will also try to find pout where to get that paint here. Rolf

What forum includes tank and fuel lines? When leaving a gas station the smell of fuel inside my car is horrible while driving for the next 100 mls. sometimes less(or even zero), sometimes a little more. I couldn't find out what circumstances make it worse or less. I don't think it's sucking from the exhaust. After my last drive the first time now the smell of fuel even filled my garage but no leak is visible. What to do, what to look for?

AndySplit, what question do you mean, the factory reconditioning one? Rolf

I had to swap the waterpump in one of my two '72 240 Zs. The new waterpump has two holes to the shaft, one to the top and one to the bottom (downwards). The old one had only one hole (downwards) and the pump in the other Z has no hole. What are the holes for? Grease, drain water or whaPlease let me know your explanation Thanks Rolf

At zhome.com there is (was?) a register. Carl Beck can shurely say more about it. If all members here and other Zowners that they know would join that register we could get an imagination of the number. Rolf

No. 6 cylinder is very heat sensitive. I hope you don't have a problem with the cylinder head gasket. A compression test might give you clearness. Rolf

Take the middle of the front axle and than put the stands right and left to this. At the rear lift at the end of the diff. Be careful, put wood or - better - thick rubber between the diff and the lifter. Work careful and look that the lift is vertical, than put the stand under the rear lifting points as descipt in your manual (use rubber between lift and lifting point). That's how I work when in a hurry.

Hi, has anyone experiance with the el. water pump that MSA sells, esp. for a daily used car or long distance rallye events? Some people say the risk of an electric pump is too big. Thanks for any support Rolf

This is absolutely great. Why didn't "Mad Mike" invite me for this journey?

Wonderful idea!

"Now and than there's a fool ... you only have to wait "

Good idea to listen to great music. My Z is a '72. Can you tell me what songs were in the top ten charts in '72 ? Rolf

Thank you all for your replies. So I tried it again with the bolt with the 9 (harder bolt) I hope it isn't a 6! As the original bolts are too long and touch the ball protecting rubber, I shortened them first and also hit a point on the top to make drilling out easier - in case .... . I also loosened the bolts of the push rod 'cause this might bring some torque on the outer M8 bolts.I could turn in the bolts by hand. No problem, so the holes are in line. The idea with the metric 10.9 bolt is okay. They have even a brider head (13 mm instead of 12). I will try to get some, they are specialities even in a metal ware shop (right word ?) here. The hint with the "click" wrench was good. I also have that other one here and you really have more feeling when torqueing 'cause you can see the how strong you are just pulling.. The toque in lb-ft was mentioned by me 'cause I thought that was more suitable for you in the US than our metric 6 kilopond or Newton meter. The bolt was broken in the middle, not where the washer is, material's problem? By the way, maybe the washer caused the problem. It "eated" itself into the metal of the axle where it sticks and than "eats" itself into the head of the bolt. Let's hope it works fine now. What might happen when the bolts break again while cornering? Rolf

Need help: At my '72 240Z I found a broken M8 bolt, the one that connects the ball joint to the track control arm. It took me some time to get the remaining bolt out of the ball joint. In between I ordered new bolts, part no. 08130-82062. First question: Is this the right bolt or what is the right part no ? I put that new bolt in and tried to torque 45 lb-ft. The bolt broke already at a bit over 36 lb-ft. So I had to drill that one out, too. My second question now is: What could I have done wrong? My dealer also ordered another M8 bolt for me, Part No. 081A0-8201A, named Bolt-Flange. Question3: What is this bolt for, where does it belong to? On the head of bolt 08130-82062 there is a "9", on bolt 081A0-8201A there is a "7". Question 4: What do the numbers 7 or 9 on the head of the bolts mean? Thank you for your help Rolf

Not yet in Bornheim, Germany (We are always a bit later)

I have 3 double SKs in my Z and they work fine. Easier to fine-tune than Webers. Combine them with an electric fuel pump, a header and a hotter cam. in my galerie the "Project Angie II Engine is fitted with SKs. Rolf