Doehring

It's not that difficult as I thought before. I took out the passenger's seat before.Good luck! Rolf

Rob, I've just answered your private mail, but it seems there are some problems. As far as I remember there was a big swiss meeting last Eastern."Gerrmanzfan" was there, I think. Please contact in Munich my good friend Fred Schuster-Orth,0049/895022740 for further informations. Rolf

Join the swiss Z or ZX club. There are some great Z's in Switzerland

You need a kick? Imagine you sit in your beautiful Z behind that classic steering wheel, the most beautiful girl at the passenger's side, you turn right ... damned shifter, damned E-brake. So imagine you sit at the passenger's side, the most beautiful girl sitting behind that classic steering wheel. You turn left ... damned E-brake, damned shifter, damned steering wheel. Forget it, driving a Z can be heaven!

Thanks to all who gave me advice. I did as a7dc recommended, that was easy. I brought the control arm to a shop and they pressed the bushings out in very few minutes, for free! By working on the suspension I also found out how easy it is to take out the whole strut: Three upper bolts,two under the steering knuckle plus the brake hose, that's all.

I have a similar Problem. I think there are two hot wires ,a blue and a red one going to the blower. Rolf

Thank you all! a7dc gave me the hint I was looking for. The control arms are out and I'm looking for a mahine shop nearby.

Sorry friends, my problem now is the bushing in the front control arm, the rear is done (exept the spindle pin!). I fear to work on the ball joints and the bearings that are okay! I read something about a "deepwell socket acting as a punch, a pipe collar for back up and a spacer to keep the control arm from being collapsed". I can't imagine how that looks like and I do not know if it works with the control arm only loosened at the engine side. Is there any experiance? Rolf Rolf

Hi all, I have to replace the old control arm bushing but I don't have that special Nissan tool that is mentioned in the manuals. I also don't want to take off the suspension but only pull down the control arm a few inches to get to the bushing. The job looks to me a bit like the "spindle pin puller problem". Has any one experiances and advice how to do it in a comfortable way? Thanks for help Rolf

Great thread. Good luck Mike, take care and be patient. The Z engine is strong and could also belong to a tractor , some people say. Rolf

zbane, if you want to get a Smart Roadster or Coupe or FourFour you have to be in a hurry; the production is stopped! Rolf

GREAT; MUST HAVE BEEN A LOT OF fUN:

Thank you all for your support! Rolf

I love to look at the pictures and collect ideas and technical solutions Rolf

Thanks David, the two washer astonished me, too. I will use the bigger one and Loctite.Nevertheless, if i have to much torque I can get in troubles and with too less, too. In Haynes I couldn't find the torque info for the rear nuts, that's why I ask for help here. Rolf

Before this thread gets forgotten!

Here in Germany Z's are very rare. End of last year a Z in good shape was 11.000,-Euros (14.000,-$) , today it's already 17.800,- $. My yellow Z (see my gallery) was last month estimated by the insurance company for 15.000,- $. So you see, the value is coming up as soon as really good Zs become rare. The good cars than pull the prices for less good Zs by the time. RECYCLE, RESTORE AN OLD Z ! Rolf

Zbane, sorry, you are right. It's a '72 240Z model with a R 180 3,9 differential. Concerning the bigger washer I have in my mind that Nissan dealers did something against noise and vibrations. Was this the bigger washer? Rolf

Hi all, can somebody please tell me what's the correct torque for the nuts at the rear differential mounting bolts? I also found two different washers per bolt, a smaller diameter and a bigger diameter. Has the bigger one to be "inside" between the diff. and the "Moustache" or are both washers "outside" between the nut and the Moustache bar? Thanks for infos! Rolf