DougN

I've also seen louvers in the inspection panels to (apparently) help vent the engine compartment. These don't stand out as much as putting them on the hood, but I've no idea how effective they are. Mine car had these on it when I purchased it, but I've since removed them and have stock inspection lids on it now (you can see them in this pic, sorry I don't have a closer one)

That's probably a good thing...

Question - I am thinking of heading up for a day-trip, and primarily want to look at other Z-cars. Will the cars be on display on Thurs and Friday, or just during the offical "Car Show" on Saturday?

Ok, so the car was listed on an eBay classified ad for $11,500 the first time it was on eBay with this seller. The second time it was an auction bid up to $9,600, which shows as sold. In the current listing, he says it is relisted due to a non-paying bidder, however he has not left negative feedback for said non-paying bidder. Sometimes, this can mean that the seller used a second account, or had a buddy, bid up the auction and ended up winning it by mistake. Not sure if it applies here, could just be that the seller is afraid to leave a negative as he doesn't want a negative from the non-paying bidder. However I would be more cautious trying to purchase this car via eBay. If you can go look at it, and bring cash or a cashiers check, it might be worth checking out.

I disagree that the seller of the car in the OP's post is asking too much, just that he is asking alot for a car without decent photos of the underside, battery tray, etc. Yes it has a 1/2 dashcap (which you can see in the flckr photos), but if it is solid otherwise, mechanically sound and the paint is as nice as it looks in the photos, then he should be able to get his asking price.

For the $$$ the seller is asking, they need to put a lot more photos of everything on that ad...

Most Z gas caps leak when you take a corner or accelerate hard just after you fill the tank. In your case it may not be related to the hot weather? I usually just put 3/4 or so in mine, just to be safe (although it does not leak very much when I fill it)

Like others, I would not want to tackle the repairs of this car and would look for another. However, as Abe has said he wants to do the work and learn how to weld, and that appears to be a driving factor in getting his current car, I'm going to have to agree with Kenny here. My advice would be to start cutting and welding on the parts that you don't see (underside, floors, etc), and then move to the parts you do see. That way you get a little experience before you get concerned about looks, and it gives you a solid platform to start lining up body panels.

If you sold the red Z, you would be able to defer most of the purchase price (once you negotiated him down to a reasonable sale price) Heck, you might even be able to do an even trade with him since you car would be more "marketable" at this point (I think we need a devil smiley to put here)

You'd be much better off with this: http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showproduct.php/product/5049/title/1972-datsun-240z-w-2f-4-speed/cat/1 Go get it and drive it back. The white CL car is not worth half of what you are thinking of offering.

Go get it Arne, you know you want to come back into the Yellow Z-Car club

Back in the day we called that 2-60 A/C - 2 windows, 60 mph

Although this has been hashed out several times in more detail in older threads, I can say that on the MG board I visit, there was an MG owner, insured by Hagerty, whose MG was totaled. Hagerty sent him a check for the full agreed value. I wish I could use Hargerty to insure my DD as well!

Looks great!

Try Gran Turismo East, on Shallowford Road off Buford Hwy just inside the perimeter. They work on all sorts of classic and performance cars and know what they are doing. http://www.granturismoeast.com/ Cheers, Doug

Unfortunately, most LBC's (little british cars, e.g. MG's, Truimphs, Healey. etc.) get a bad rap because of the DPO's who messed things up from their original state. Once put back to original condition, the electrical system, like all other areas of the car, is fine. Now if you want to start splicing wires, putting in modern stereo systems, etc., then you might have some problems. My MGB does not give me problems, and has been trouble free (other than maintenance) for over 10 years. This is of course after I got it sorted out and back to it's normal state!

I agree with Mr. Camo and dont think it is a 240 at all, the dash is not a 240 dash either, the whole thing is a 260, and the interior looks like it is all one color now that everything is removed. I beleive that spot on the C-pillar is where those panels normally go together, or worst case, where replacement panels are welded on. Not sure the whole car was made from two based on the photos provided.

Well done! It should look great when you are done sanding it out - and should last quite awhile. Nothing at all wrong with using your own labor vs $$$$. Also, since white reflects all colors, it will be harder to notice any potential flaws

Gary, if you painted your car yellow in 2004, then you're late to the party! Mine has been PPG base yellow since 1997 Looking foward to seeing more progress pics Rich, good luck!

Thanks for the compliment Dave! My Z is actually PPG base yellow (lots of pics in my gallery Rich if you want to see how it will look when done)

I'm sure that the rest of the car will indeed look as good when you are done with it Randy!

Now there will be a rush on Kia Sportage weatherstripping, and the Kia corporate types will spend countless hours testing and trying to figure out why so many Sportages are having weather strip replacements, yet are not coming to the dealership...

Looks like someone deleted my data all together? :mad: At this point, perhaps some type of database where there is a form to add your info, and then it goes into the master would be better. That way we don't have people who don't know what they are doing messing everything up!

He sold it???? I musta missed that one!

Sounds like you've got your plan together then!