imhoppy

Too much.I paid $400 for my 260 with very little rust / rot.On the pass fender. I have owned four Z's in my life and i havent found one yet that had zero rust.BTW i live in Northern CAL and three of the Z's were stored in a garage. Buyer beware

I prefer stock dark green mettalic.In the past i sold a green one to the first guy that saw it.I also sold a light blue one to the first girl to see it.The blue one was a automatic maybe thats why she liked so much.Or maybe blue is a chick color.

When i read this it reminds me of MAD MAX when he flips a switch and the blower comes on. Ohh OK

I bought one of these from the orignal owner in nov.I couldnt get it running so i ended up stripping the parts and cutting up the body.I didnt know at the time that it was a limited edition.I dont feel to bad the rear 1/4 had about 3 pounds of bondo and the roof was smashed in,interoir was really rough.

Oh, and if you don't NEED the octane, you'll probably LOSE power by raising the octane. No kidding didnt know that

Good call enigma The P.O. told me that the wires were new.Ive only put about 300 miles on it in a year. So i just figured they were ok.I checked them with my ohm meter and two of them were out of spec.When i went to buy new wires i picked up some octane boost and 5 gallons of fresh gas.I dont know which one fixed it but it pulls nicely now. I think sometimes its the easy stuff that is overlooked.

The 260 is kind of a bastard z they only made them for a year "in the US "And even then they changed them in the middle of the year I prefer the early ones the look alot like the 240 but i little more advanced in some areas.The later 260 mimics the 280s with the larger bumpers turn signals in the grill etc.etcThere is some things that where on the 260s that SUCKED. .The carbs are a major pain to dial in once you get them there still only ok. Plus this is the year that the gov made them put in a safety interlock unit.They had so many complaints about it that nissan put out a T.S.B. on how to disable the dam thing. The best advice is to do a search on buying the early S30s Ill bet there is over a hundred posts with lots of great advice.I would imagine that most of the members on this site had the same questions before they bought thiers. Good luck

Thanks Gary, I thought i read somewhere that ther where two differant modules for the D6 dist. Must have been something else.BTW swaping the ZX dist. to my early 260 was easy! got rid of a bunch of wires in the process .Mainly my whole safety interlock system as well as the old ignition system plus the egr relays.MUCH CLEANER UNDER THE HOOD NOW:love: I know there is about a bizillion posts on this swap and i swear to god i have read for 20 hours straight. But as usual i came acrossed something differant My fixing plate wouldnt allow me to advance the timing beyond 8 degrees. I bought a new pedastol from the dealer to use with this diz but i didnt get the fixing plate.So i just used my old one my 260 had to enlarge the slots for the bolts. I dont know if this was ok but i am running at 18 btdc now Unfortunally i cant get my rpms above 3000 it starts to fade the wierd thing is that it only happens on the hill by my house i read lots of threads on this too The best i can figure is that i need new plugs EVERYTHING else is new.It wasnt a problem before the swap??????? Also thanks to arne for the reply still havent got a new digital camera

Ok just picked up a 78-81 distributor off ebay.From this place called PLANET AUTO PARTS. It seems like it was a great deal. It is a remanafactured Diz for $112.00. It appears to be in great shape new bearings,plates and the such. The one thing im curious about is the the module doesnt have any markings on it except "IGN-02" Does anybody have any idea if this a aftermarket module or what???? I dont want to do the upgrade this weekend if it is the wrong module. B.T.W I read over 100 posts on this before i asked. THANKS MIKE

Like blake said check the dealer.You might be suprised on what you can still get.I got the drivers side upper hinge and the lock assembly from them last week.The hinge was cheaper than i could find aftermarket.

First thanks for the replies, I did check the compression about 100 miles ago not as high as i would like but all cylinders consistant couple of pounds either way.160pnds The engine dies as if i turned off the key. By the way it will start up immediately again after it dies?? I have another ignition module that i tried same thing happened It is the one under the dash on the passenger side it is silver with fins kinda looks like a small amp. SILVER WITH FINS SOUNDS LIKE A FISH:ermm: One more thing to throw into the mix is that it has happend twice in the last 500 miles. Now im scared to take it anywhere dont want to get stuck. Today after breakfast i went back up to the shop.And it fired right up and ran great no sign of any problems:stupid: I have a 400 S.B.C.that is for another project I sure am tempted to commit a sin and drop that beast into my fickel 260 dont want to yet. But if i cant trust the car at least it will eat up all the RICERS cruising around here. Im going to get a 1980 dizzy and new coil another couple hundred bucks in to my little baby and see if that works.If it doesnt ill see you over at HYBIRDS. Anyway if anybody has any ideas even if it sounds crazy PLEASE POST.I dont want to molest my 260 :disappoin

My early 260 is giving me fits.The problem is a wierd one to nail down. The car starts right up then in 5 to 10 seconds it dies? Ok sounds like fuel delivery Nope guess again! The bowls on my 72 carbs are full. Both fuel pumps are working 5 pounds of pressure at carbs. Brand new filters, lines , Z therapy carbs Ive tested the ignition circuit at every point i can find per the fsm and 3 other books on this car.Seems ok.It does have the early 74 ign system. Maybe i should upgrade to the 79 80 ign system.Lots of parts on the old one .

Great video, I love sound of a healthy z getten redlined. The second sound track with the headbanging music seems more like racing music.Thanks for the effort.

Not necessarily true about Eric he has quite a bit of new stuff Ive been dealing with him for over 15 years.Mostly he has rare items maybe not a new differentail mount. JEEZ sorry just trying to help

Ed nailed it i used herculiner on my 260 worked great with disposable brushes. I found out its best to get some gloves before you start if it sets up before you clean it off your hands.Its a chore gettin it off

Call up Eric Neyerline he works out of point richmond.He has literally tons of parts. zparts.com

I kind of figured that i didnt do a good job of describing the problem.I was going to take some pictures of it but my new camera is on the fritz.Tested the batteries bad camera:angry: I will have to go out and get another.It really sucks because i have most of my restoration shots in it:sick.I wonder if it has broken spring inside? Ill be back Mike P.s. Thanks alot for your guys posts on the subject:geek:

The list price is the manafactures suggested retail price.Kind of like those late nite shows that will sell $280 worth of stuff for $19.95

Does anybody have any idea how, where ,who, can i get the little spring that holds the small hasp in place.The one that allows you to unlock /lock the door. I think its a torsion spring about 10mm O.d.I have three bellcranks for my early 260 and springs are all broken .So i figure that this is a common problem.At least with the 260?.Looked online and there are litterally thousands of differant sizes and shapes of springs:ermm: Please send help ASAP Ive been trying to fix this with other ideas for 16 hours Im Done:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

If some one needs a F.S.M for your Z get on EBAY and punch in."DATSUN SERVICE MANUALS" I just did it and got 54 hits.Alot are for trucks and other datsuns.But it is worth a shot.By the way there is a 74 260 one on there right now for $20.Better get it soon there is only 2 days left.Thinking about bidding on it any way just in case of a disaster i.e. flood, earthquake,fed up wife.

Most of you guys probally have a F.S.M.Already.But for those who dont if your planning on doing your own wrenching on your Z you HAVE to get one.I was able to pick one up off ebay for $27.00.Im almost done with my restoration and i wish i had it months ago.I have 2 chiltons,a clymer,Haynes,How to modify your ZHow to restore your Z,And even one buy some guy named Peter Russek? Wick Humbles book is handy for tips and for some kind of sequence in the restoration,The modify book is good for racing.But for my money all of them put together cant hold a wrench next to the one from the engineers who designed the car.Its gettin cold out i think i just found some good kindling for the fire :devious: Happy Holidays Mike

I was thinking about doing this swap but after reading your post i decided its probally not worth it.That was cool of you to take the time to document the process.Then take the time to do all that typing.That would take me a month! Thanks again:classic:

P.S If you find filler somewhere the odds are really good that it was there for a reason,Just because it is thin DOESN'T mean that it shouldnt be replaced.I've learned this the hard way.Make sure you lay down a least 1 guide coat before you spray on your finish.Even the best auto body guys have sprayed on the color and found a "how did i miss that".Good luck

Last month i removed all yhe paint of my 260 and there was bondo on the roof.It was really thin more like a glazing putty.The guy i bought the car from was the orginal owner and he swore that it only was repainted once with a really ugly dark green.The car only had two layers of paint which leads to believe that the factory used plastic filler to smooth out small waves.You got to figure that even in the production of the big, really thin panels there will be waves.I ran into the same thing with a 240 i had in the early 80's it had the factory paint and was always parked in her garage. Also there seems to be a myth that california cars are rust free.I can tell you that out three S-30s that i have owned and the dozens that i have checked out not one of them was rust free .All of them had rust in the fenders 1/4 panels, and on the drivers side hatch area.Granted it might be less severe than east coast cars but all the same is no such thing as a early 70's rust free Z. Unless of course it was never driven.

I just checked one last nite.The blue and red wire is the power supply The blue and white is the signal.I have a old manual switch that i cut off to expose the three wires Solid blue is the hot i spliced the solid blue and the blue and red together then i just touched the two hots the blue and white to send a signal to the antenna.This was done in the car but i suppose you could test one on a bench by hooking up the B/R and the ground to a battery and touch the B/W to the hot.WORKED FOR ME good luck.