SHOTIME

Here's what's left- Blower motor- 2 $5 Steering column- 3 $5 Engine block, 2400- 3 $25 Rods and Pistons std.-3 $25 Gas vent tank- 3 $10 Spare tire hold down- 3 $5 Pedel assembly gas and brake- 3 $10 Dash (with harness, gauges, radio)- 3 $275 (small repairable crack) Steering wheel- 3 $15 int. panel (where dome light is)- 3 $5 1/4 glass- 3 $20 both steering wheel cover- 3 $5 seats- 2 $20 both Doors*- ? $5 each (no rust showing) 4spd tranny- 2 $20 heater core- 2 $5 tail lights -3 $25 both wipers- 3 $5 both side markers -1 $1 each (lenses good) hood hinge -3 $5 hood access panels -3 $10 each metal tail light panel-3 $15 interior switch(on side of dash) -3 crank- 3 $5 cam- 3 $5 cam oiler -3 $5 E31 head- 3 $50 valves-3 $10 intake-3 $5 complete black vinyl int. -2 $10 windshield-3 $30 Brake booster is not in the best condition so I don't want to sell it. Like you said, brakes are important. I need to be emailed for parts requests. kellyb@rochester.rr.com

Here's the big list- Conditions are 1- rebuildable 2- ok 3- good Prices are final. Pictures of everything but with a * by it. Do not ask for more pictures, I don't have a camera anymore. Everything listed is all that's reuseable. If you want something not listed and I have it, it's free and I do not guarantee it's condition. You have 48 hours to respond after I reply with your request. After that it goes to the next person in line. Shipping is from Buffalo NY Buyer pays all shipping + packaging charges If you want something email me with the parts you want and I'll send the picture of it. First come, first serve. Give me a little time to get back to you as I have already got a ton of emails about parts and have to sort out those with the 100's of penis enlargement and free vacation spam. Use "240Z parts" as subject so I don't get them lost. Blower motor- 2 $5 Steering column- 3 $5 Engine block, 2400- 3 $25 Rods and Pistons std.-3 $25 Gas vent tank- 3 $10 Spare tire cover- 3 $5 Spare tire hold down- 3 $5 Pedel assembly gas and brake- 3 $10 Dash (with harness, gauges, radio)- 3 $275 (small repairable crack) Steering wheel- 3 $15 Consol- 3 $20 int. panel (where dome light is)- 3 $5 int. left 1/4 panel - 3 $10 rear hatch panel - 3 $5 1/4 glass- 3 $20 both steering wheel cover- 3 $5 fuse panel- 3 $25 shift knob- 3 $5 seats- 2 $20 both hatch- 3 $50 L door panel- 2 $5 R door panel- 3 $10 Doors*- ? $5 each (no rust showing) 4spd tranny- 2 $20 heater core- 2 $5 tail lights -3 $25 both rear view mirrors- 3 10 both wipers- 3 $5 both side markers -1 $1 each (lenses good) hood hinge -3 $5 hood access panels -3 $10 each metal tail light panel-3 $15 interior switch(on side of dash) -3 $2 Lighter- 3 $2 dome light -3 $1 SU round top carbs -1 $10 both seat belts -3 $5 luggage belts -3 $5 tool bag (empty)-3 $2 ash tray -3 $15 inner shift boot -3 $5 crank- 3 $5 cam- 3 $5 cam oiler -3 $5 E31 head- 3 $50 valves-3 $10 intake-3 $5 hood*-3 $25 complete black vinyl int. -2 $10 windshield-3 $30 Every nut, bolt, screw, washer (all labeled) I have that came off the car-$10

I wasn't ready for the amount of people interested in parts! This weekend I am going to fully catalog everything. I have a lot of it in storage boxes and a lot of larger items are at my grandfather's house. He's in the hospital so I can't get up there until I can get ahold of my aunt Sat. By Sunday night I will have everything listed that's salvageable. For those wanting something, make a list with an item for every line. Ex: 1. hood 2. door I will contact you on what is available. I get emails lost in all the spam I get. BTW, the car shell is being scraped on Sat. It needs- quarters, floor pans, rockers, crossmember mount rebuild, pretty much a LOT. It's FREE to anybody who wants it. If somebody speaks up between now and then I can have it hauled to work and left outback until you pick it up. I got myself a new toy I'm picking up on Friday and need the space for winter.

consol

fuse panel

I'm getting a digital camera tomorrow so I'll have pics that night. The valve cover had it's breather elbow broken off and it looks like it was epoxied on. It's the 2400 one. I'll take a pic of it and you decide.

Send me an email, I'll check for the shift boot.

Sure I'll ship. I'll try and keep the prices down since you live in FL. I have the seats and door panels, condition is about an 8 of 10 $20 each seat, $10 for the panels Steering wheel was stripped of paint- I'll paint it for you, $15 No tool kit No spare tire Dash is flawless w/ gauges, harness, radio and I do have the antenna still in the car. $300 for everything I'd do $350 + shipping for everything and I'll even toss in a restored shift knob. BTW, if anybody wants the body I'd let it go for $50. Complete with suspension and rear end. I'd rather not scrap a classic.

I'm halfway between Buffalo and Rochester. Early '71. The hatch has no visible rust. I'll check it tomorrow for bondo and get back to you. BTW, I'd sell everything for $1000. It can still be restored, just that it will take a lot of body work. (Floorpans, quarters, rockers, front cross member mounts) Everything is apart, the whole car is there, just fix the body and put it back together. I'll get some pics up in the next few days.

I got into this project and found too much structural rust on the body to justify going any further. I have every part on the car. Email kellyb@rochester.rr.com for requests/quotes. I'm willing to part with everything very reasonably. Everything must go as I bought another car that needs the Z's space in the garage. Some of the better items: E31 head MINT dash, no cracks All interior pieces good except carpet Shelby wheels Hood and hatch

I'd wet sand it. You won't believe how much a truly flat surface will improve the shine. You don't need to clear coat it. Before you start, get one of those paint depth gages and measure it. Most cheap paint jobs are 1 coat thick. You have to be very careful sanding if the paint is thin, because even after you sand, you still need to compound and polish.

DOT 5 is silicone and won't absorb water like regular fluid does. Normal brake fluid should be changed every 2 years or so to prevent rust in the lines due to water.

I think the main problem is lack of entrepeneiurship. With out that you're left with giant corporations, which are essentially pyramid scheems. One person at the top making tens of millions, then your execs making millions, top level management making mid hundred thousands, lower management low hundred thousands, and then down to the majority making $30-50k. In a pyramind like that, only a certain number have the potential to make a decent income. The source of the cause is back in school where we are told if we don't go to college and get a job we're worthless. There was not one mention of working for yourself, yet everybody I know that is financially independant is self employed.

Well...yea...the rich own everything. 95% of that list started their own business. Tom Gallisano started Paychex with $3000, and is now a billionare. If you work for somebody, you're making money for them. The solution is to start your own business. You're aren't a slave to your employer, you choose to work there. For my age I make pretty good money, yet I still work for somebody. I get 50% commission, so I "make" double what shows up on my check. In the spring I'm starting my own business and from what I figure, should be around 6 figures, high 5 for income. So I'm on my way to being "rich". Most people who are rich, deserve to be so. What they do for fun in your mind is the total opposite of what is actuality. Most work 12 or more hours a day, and when they aren't at work, they're thinking about work. I've planned 10 years, since I was 15, on starting my business. I've worked jobs just to see how things were run, my job I have now I got just to make contacts for accounts. If you don't like rich people, move to Cuba. It's not a rich persons fault you aren't rich. Making money is easy, it's finding out how to do it that's hard.

I've finally built up the confidence to paint my own car. A guy at work has a HVLP gun for sale that he said would be good for priming. My question is, what's the difference in a priming gun and a painting gun?

http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=31015&Dep_Key1= that's the flanger you need. The tool that "restored" my car before me just welded pieces of sheetmetal over the rusted parts and put 1in of bondo on top. :stupid: I thought my car looked a little big compaired to other Zs.

I was going to start mine this weekend but I got to thinking that I need both floor pans (and then some) and the crossmember mounts rebuilt. I don't want to cut them out and chance the body distoring while it's in the air like that. There's only 2 months left to work before winter so I may have to wait until spring. What kind of welder did you use? A guy down my street has every welder you can imagine and I was going to use one of those, but for $200 I'll buy my own.

65-70 Mustangs, my next project 60's Ferarris 60's Porsches Custom Hot Rods New 911 S2000 05 Mustang.....I'll wait to see how much Ford bastardizes this car from concept to production before I make it final. New cars don't do much for me.

I've got quite a bit of rust behind my fenders/rockers/quarters, hell its everywhere. For the spots you can't see, like behind the fenders, would it be ok to use fiberglass to fix the panels instead of welding in a patch? (Not the bondo fiberglass, actual fiberglass.) Also, I'm replacing everything with fiberglass. All other panels are bolt on but how would I go about bonding fiberglass quarterpanels to the metal? I guess I'm just trying to get out of spending $500+ for a welder......

Anybody want to give the steps involved? I've got 1/2 in of Bondo at least just on the right side. I haven't touched the left. There's no way these can be saved. I just want the steps to remove the panel, no replace it. After I take it off I have to decide whether to keep the car or not. The front frame rails are rusted and need replacing already. If the back looks like the front I think I'll be searching for a Mustang or Porsche for a resto and giving up on the Z.

I started making a list of suspension pieces I need and need some help with sway bar size. I never drove my car before I started tearing it apart so I have no base line. I plan on doing some weekend racing with the car and this is by no means a daily driver. (75% street, 25% track) I want the ride fairly stiff and handling on the loose side. What's the best swaybar sizes for this set up? I'm also putting on strut bars on the front and rear if that makes any difference.

I remember a site that let you pick the head, bore, head gasket thickness, etc. and told you the ratio. I found this- http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/compression.html It's not what I was talking about but it might help.

Bumpers are coming off. If a car is like a woman it has to have a nice rear end. I can't justify spending $800 or so to get new ones. This is going to be just a weekend car so I'm not concerned with the legality of anything. I have a good lawyer and one of those PBA stickers on all my cars that get you out of all but a DWI. I'd doubt they'd even notice, cops around here are about as sharp as a dull spoon.

I was working on getting my diff. out this weekend so I kept looking at the back of the car. I thought to myself it would look a lot better if the bumper was left off and the mounts patched up. Does anybody have any pics of this and/or the front bumper removed?