sleepy-z

Im also from Norcal, my advice is to go to a local meet and check out some of those cars, go to zonc.org they have a calender of norcal meets. Talk to some of those people also and take a look at their Z's, they are the reason I found my 75 280z. Sometimes you might find one for sale their, also since your in California look for CA Z's, most are rust free from what i've found other then below the battery tray. Dont rush into buying one, read up on them, I got lucky on mine. Maybe I will see you at a meet someday with yours. I might go to a at mt.diablo park hosted by zonc oct. 1 and there should be some good 70-83 Z's their.

I have collector car insurance on my 75 280z the only catch on mine is the mileage limit, 3000 miles a year but for $8.50 a month and a 12 mile a day commute it works great, it is my half DD though somedays I take the 90 300zx.

Congrats on that find, go with the original color with that low vin#. If I had the money I would get mine back to the original color. Im new also, these guys now there stuff and are a lot more helpfull then other pages, more understanding towards newbies inexpierence with Z's then other pages.

1975 280z EFI 4spd Ok I lowered the idle back to 800 when it was warm, idles 1300 cold, thats good. Now the bad, it dies now at 800 warm, struggles and dies. Maybe the tach is off? It ran smooth at 1000, never lugged. I am willing to work on this to make it run perfect, but I dont know the engine like i've learned my z32. Any ideas if it isn't a misreading tach, maybe timing issue or vacuum? I am about to do a valve adjustment on it, might that fix it? Any help is help Thanks Sleepy-z

Thanks guys, I was once a newbie for twinturbo.net, now im a newbie for classiczcars.com and have a lot to learn about my 280z. I will play with it a little this weekend.

I honestly adjusted it to sit at 1000 warm it runs smoother there, I was really wondering if it has a switch or valve that causes it to run higher on cold starts. The idle doesn't seem to change when its cold to warm so im wondering if there is anything wrong about that and what might I do to fix that, my manual doesn't seem to help. I did clean the throttle body and the air flow meter but that didn't seem to do anything. Maybe I will lower it to 800 warm to see if it's higher cold. Thank you for any help.

Im young, my car is older then me. 1975 280z EFI. My simple question is regarding the idle speed when I start it cold, should the engine warm up and have the speed drop as it warms or does the idle speed remain the same warm or cold? It starts at 800-1000rpms cold and runs the same, is that correct or is something wrong? Sorry for the newbie question this is my first pre-90 Z and I want her running right it just seems odd that it doesn't idle high cold and drop as it warms up. Thanks

I have pics, go to the gallery under my name, it's just first day shots, I took those wheels off and put on gumetal rewinds. The wheels it came with needed tires and one had a little bend in it. I will get some pics of all three one day. Right now 2/3 are cleaned and covered, using one for my commute(300zx).

Me and my dad both have newer Z's. Me a 90 300zx, my dad a 03 350z. I convinced him to get that american muscle dream out of his head with the 350z now thats over and I further convinced him to go halfs on a project classic Z. We searched and found a 75 280z in good/great shape, needed some tuning up and a little interior work. It had the original motor in it still with 109k documented miles, my only complaint was a repaint that wasn't the original color and they didn't bother with the engine bay, car was silver now its dark blue. It has always been in California so no rust from what I have found. I love this website and its tips, hope to see some locals at meets with one or more of our Z's present. Sorry for length, just introducing myself. Sleepy-z

I dont have them but want them: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=50-1901&Category_Code=TE

The bumpers kill me on the 280z, but I prefer to work on the fuel injected L28 over a L24 any day. I am young and I know nothing about carburetors, I dont even know if I spelt that correct, so I looked for and found a 75' 280z. It is simple to work on and reliable for the average person. So if this discussion was on the original car, no swaps, I would go for the 280z for the motor.

Wow, thanks, I just bought a 75' 280z 2 weeks ago. First wash I noticed water getting through, not good. I honestly was thinking of glueing a new weatherstrip to the old, behind it, making it thicker and tighter to the window but I had no idea how that would look or if it would work. Now I have your instructions to follow, Thanks for your tips.

I dont have mine here with me there at work so: lugnuts, I dont remember seeing the hole taper to let a lugnut slide in and grab, do they tighten to the outside of the rim? I forgot, my lugnuts set wide of the rim and would have scratched if I mounted, I found my old wheel lock would have contacted the very inside edge so is that the way they mount, the lugnut not going in the hole of the rim at all, sratching the outside when torqued down? Also anyone know the torque for the wheels? Thanks

$3500, he hated to sell it, but he saw how clean my 300zx was when I looked at it and said he wanted to sell it to someone who would take care of it, lucky me.

Enkei's, at least that's what the caps say, im getting some konig rewinds tommorrow. One wheel has a little ding in it and it could use some tires, so im going for new rims+tires.

I wanted the classic Z look, searched and searched. There it was parked in the backyard driveway of this old guys house, his as described weekend car. I have a 90 300zx already, but it was spoiling me, I wanted no a/c, no p/s, you know something fun to drive on a backroad on a sunny California day roll down the window. She's a 75 280z 4sp. original engine 109k on it, fired up on the 1st crank, im satisfied. Enjoy the pics.

Great thanks.

High pressure fuel hose for injectors, 5/16 or 1/4? 1975 280z Thanks