Ttiger

Dave is right. Some electronic ignition systems use a full 12 volts (no ballast needed) and some use the 8-10 volts (ballast needed). You need to know what kind of system you have. If it's a 280ZX distributor, you don't use the ballast but you need a 280ZX (12 volt) coil. The stock 240-Z coil is an 8 volt unit. Proper punctuation in your messages goes a long way to our better understanding of what you're trying to ask so we can get you the right answer.

A friend of mine who worked at a GMC dealer turned me onto some stuff called "Nothing's Better". It cleans glass, aluminium, chrome and other stainless. It's a powder that you use to polish. I had some defects in my windshield and it took them right out. Watkins of Sacramento, PO Box 30301, Sacramento, CA 95838 (800)-668-2887.

I went to their website http://www.checkeredflagclassics.com and magnified some of the pictures. It looks like the dash has been "capped" as teh glove box lid is a different color. The steering wheel has been covered so the wood is not showing. In spection lid over the battery is not straight and the stickers in the engine compartment look to be missing. It's a nice retoration, but I don't think it's worth $19K

I forgot, the fitting that points down is for a hose from the air pump. When I pulled all the smog stuff off my Z, I found a rubber cap and capped off that fitting so no unfiltered air would get to the carbs.

Hopefully you can still get it. I tried at www.mazda-parts-dealer.com (great prices on Nissan and Mazda parts) and they said it was no longer available. Try Motorsport too www.zcarparts.com

I would double check the fuses. Sometimes they can detach inside and they'll look good but not make a connection. The early Z's had one fuse for each headlight and if one blew, that headlight would be dim.

FAR was a great shop. I used to take my 510 and later my 240-Z to them. The 240-Z we bought my wife had been serviced there and they had it running like a watch. They used to let me in the shop when they were working on my cars and I saw first-hand what quality work they did. They used to sell aftermarket parts as well. It was a great place to hang out as they sponsored rallies, and Z-car shows as well. They were on old Middlefield Road in Mountain View, CA

Here's a head scratcher for you. I know it's a 300ZX, but I though I'd see if anyone has an idea. 1985 300ZXT 5-speed A sequence of events led to a timing belt break (head bolt broke and lodged under the cam) and susequent head removal (no damage) and a replacement of the head gasket, new timing belt and tensioner. I replaced the water pump and all 3 drive belts as well. Everything went well and the car started right up and runs fine. Now I've got a squeal that sounds like a bearing going/gone bad when it's cold. It lasts for about a minute and then goes away. I've re-checked all the belts I pulled the A/C belt (V-belt) to see if was the A/C idler pulley. Still squeals I pulled the P/S belt (V-belt) - Still squeals. I puled the Alt/water pump belt (ribbed belt) and started the car - No squeal. I manually spun the alternator pulley and the water pump pulley. I found a little play in the water pump (new) so I removed it and put the old pump back on - no squeal at start up and nothing while the car idled and warmed up. The next day, the squeal is back in the morning. Could it be the fan clutch? It was laying flat when it was off the car? The hayden web site talks about bearings in the clutch. The alternator was not squealing before so that's my last suspect. Any ideas? I'd like to figure it out rather than replacing part after part.

I may have some, if you're looking for used. Let me know

Oh yeah.. Pick-N-Pull can be awesome. I was looking for the rear extension housing for the 5 speed I put in my '73. Nissan no longer makes it and I found it at some re-sellers for $150. My local Pick-N-Pull had 3 early 280-ZX 5 speeds and one already had the exhaust pulled. It took me 30 min to get the extansion housing out and I picked up a plug-n-play electronic distributor. Best $40 I've spent! This was the Pick-N-Pull in Moss Landing, northern CA if anyone is looking for parts. The other ZXs have the 5 speeds and electronic distributors in them.

If you're going to replace the metal lines, I'd replace the whole thing. Make it one-piece like the factory did, less chance for leaks. You can take the old ones out to use as a pattern for the new ones. A simple tubing bender will make the curves and you'll need to to put the hose "bulge" on the ends, if they don't come with them.

Happy wife, happy life

In my garage: 2001 Maxima SE 20th 2003 Chevy Suburban 2002 Honda Goldwing On the driveway: 1973 240Z 1992 Mazda Miata

Are you talking about the metal lines or the rubber ones? The metal lines hold up pretty well and the rubber ones are easily replaced with readily available hose from Kragen or Autozone.

Wow! I'll have to go back in the albums to try and find pictures, but here goes, in rough order of ownership (I owned several at once): 1969 510 Wagon - Red 1971 240-Z - Orange 1981 280ZXT - Black (Still around) 1967 Roadster - Red 1972 240-Z - Orange 1972 240-Z - Lime green (Still around) 1987 Maxima SE - Silver (Still have it) 1987 Pathfinder SE V6 - Blue 1990 Pathfinder 4 door SE V6 - Blue 1993 Quest XE - Red (Still around) 2001 Maxima SE 20th - Blue (Daily driver) 1971 240-Z - Orange (my son's car) 1981 280ZXT - Black (totalled after I finished it) 1985 300ZXT - Black (my other son's car) 1973 240-Z - Green (my toy)

The back end of my tail housing (280-z 5 speed), where the driveshaft seal goes, is cracked and leaks gear oil. Is it possible to R&R the tailhousing with the trans in the car? I just put everything back in there after doing a engine-trans swap... I didn't notice the crack until it was all bolted up!! I really don't want to have to take things apart again! Thanks

I didn't see any under hood stickers in the picture. The hood may have been replaced so the check the core support (where the radiator is attcahed) and the frame rails for damage and/or proper repair.

From your user name, I assume you have a 280Z? The location of the timing indicator should not matter as long as the mark on the crank corresponds. When they installed the A/C, they moved the indicator and added a score line on the crank to match. If you move the indicator back to stock, you need to use the factory score line on the crank. Also, did you line up the distributor properly? With the timing chain wheels at their TDC position, the rotor should be pointing straight at the #1 spot on the distributor cap.

You can get new ones from Nissan.. Post a WTB parts ad too

You've got two parts to the free play adjustment: #1 is the free play on the clutch master cylinder at the clutch pedal. You want the pedal adjusted so when it'sat the top, it's not putting pressure on the master cylinder shaft which would in turn put pressure on the slave cylinder. That adjustment is done with the rubber pedal stopper above the pedal. #2 is the slave cylinder adjustment at the clutch fork on the transmission. On some early cars that free play is adjustable (same idea as above) you don't want it putting pressure on the fork when your foot is off the pedal. On other (later) cars, it's not adjustable. If you have the non-adjustable slave cylinder and it's hard to engage, your clutch may be worn out. Your pedal will also engage close to the top of its travel.

One More problem: #3 - The guy I bought the trans from must have dropped it because I didn't notice until I got it installed, of course, but the end where the rear seal is was flat on the bottom. It cracked the housing where the seal goes so when I tried to tap it back round, the metal broke so the seal will go in but it's not tight and leaks. It looks like that part is part of the whole rear extension housing. Will a 4-speed extension housing fit? Are they still available? I'd like to be able to repair it while still in car rather than have to pull everything out again. Epoxy?

I just installed a 260Z motor with a 280Z 5 speed in my '73 240 that had an automatic. I have two issues remaining to complete the job: #1 - The shifter does not come up in the center of the hole on the trans tunnel. It's like the car's a '71, but it's a '73 for sure!. It looks like the tunnel has two possible cut-outs, one for manual and one for auto. See the attached photo. If I cut the tunnel along the foreward line to make the hole bigger, the shifter will be in the center of the hole (good), but the shift boot I bought will be too small (bad). The boot I bought has a rubber lip that fits around the inside of the tunnel hole. Should I be using the boot that is held down by a metal ring ? (I have that ring). If so, the bolt holes won't line up with the bolt holes in the tunnel. According to the Nissan parts fiche, there are two different floor sections, one for manual and one for auto. Help? #2 - The '73 originally had a dual point distributor (for the automatic). My new engine has a single point distributor. I connected both the point wires together so that whichever point selection the car made based on engine temp etc, it would connect to the same set of points. The problem is now the car won't shut down if I turn the key off. I know there's an extra soleniod for the dual points on auto trans cars. I guess I have to figure out which wire is always "hot" and disconnect the other. I also don't have an EGR valve or the "thermo switch assy" so I don't think the car will try and switch point set connections. Thanks

My bet is the water pump seized and that's what caused the belt squealing. The other possibility is that the belt was very loose and was slipping which caused the car to overheat, but you probably would not see steam from the water pump, it would more likely be a hose or even worse, a head gasket.

"If the stub axle breaks right under the stub axle retaining nut, the nut was most likely cross threaded when last installed" - Or loose The axle I found was genuine Nissan. I pressed the bearings on it and tapped it back into place. The locknut must have been loose because now, after I torqued it down, the clunk when I let out the clutch is gone!!. Oh well, I should have tightened it when I heard the clunk.

If it's a 280, they are cheap and easily available from Kragen, NAPA, etc. If it's a 240/260, they are expensive and have to be special ordered. MSA also has them