BuDavid

looking forward for that! and if they sent the bushings for free, be happy and dont bother, sell them or keep them for the future;)

forst of all, what is it? second, what is it used for? 3rd, does it need the wheels below under it of should be on top? 4th, this thing has an owner or it is just a wild animal? for god's sake somebody plz shoot that guy who made this:D

soooo niZe

dam this forum is fast! and from where I can get the specs.? or what are they? and length of the sleeve?? shall I reach it for sure?

Arne, OPS! I should have known that:) I'm convinced of the KYB's now, but the problem is that the dealer here doesnt say that they are GR-2's or what ever are they, coz they punk says it is a shock absorber for a 280Z only!:stupid: from the replies I read that some of u guys stated thet KYB's GR-2's are blue, are u sure of it? how can I identify them physically? from the KYB's site there was the attached picture and the part number from this table: http://kyb.com/catalog/index.php?Action=Submit&MakeID=Nissan&ModelID=377&x=42&y=7 unfortunatly those numbers wont work with that brainless dealer, so I'm afraid that he is selling some other types of KYB's that can be fitted on 280Z's how can I recognize them?

so the rod will travel trough the sleeve even if it was tightened untill the washers attach both sides of it? but I hope that my sleeves were not shortened somehow!? does anybody know the length of the sleeve? coz in my case the sleeves will be really squeezed if I reach the sleeve under tightening. thanx

Enigma, I have a Z32 non- turbo, and I'm really considering selling it, I dont have any problem with it, it is reliable as far as I experienced and more powerfull for sure, but it doesnt taste like Z! I'll sell it and go for a corvette C4 LT1.. and about the V6-L6 engines, the L6 is smoother as far as I know and mostly balanced engine, but the problem is that the length of the engine, so it pulls the center of mass more to the front, but I dont care, I'm not a track racer nor a drag racer, I just look for the style and taste of the ride.. I respect the new tech. and performance of newer models, but sorry, designs are going down! cheerzz!

resurected280, thanx for the link, I allready visited it be4, it is my Z bible;) DArrel, Dtsnlvrs, thanx for the confirmation, and I guess that I fitted the washers correctly from your reply, Dtsnlvrs, the sleeve is there, but is it ok if it has a shorter length as the bushings togeather? and while tightening, I should tighten untill it becomes hard? coz I think that the sleeve must be free to travel.. in this case I guess I'll need a tourque wrench so both sides will have same flexibility..correct?

hi there, I have a small question, it might seem silly but I really need a quick help since my car is on stands now:stupid: I baught new bushings and washers for my 280Z from VB, but the joke is that I dont know how to install them after I had a small discussion with one of my friends which claimed that it must be arranged as the second way show on "pic2", I thaught that it must be the same as in the "pic1", so I decided to ask about it here coz I really trust u guys more that anybody out there!:beard: another thing, the washers must bu fitted as in the pictures or the opposite way? I mean like this -----(--) or like this ------)--(?? and the washers can be exactly the same? since I had a very slight difference on the nut's side.. I appreciate an accurate simpele answer.. thanx..

well, I hope that you mentioned that when I was saying plastic, plastic and plastic I meant that plastic inside, outside and under the hood! u know, even the headlight are made from plastic which is monted on top of the plastic bumper+spoiler in one piece! urrg! I guess after 15 years they'll make a Z in whole one piece! made of plastic for sure! I hate plastic, I'm considering to make cast metal from the rear light molding, and plate it with chrome! I just want to eliminate the plastic as much as I can!

hi guys, I need to buy a new car, coz I've had it with used cars since my 1982 BMW's 525 AC broke down while I was going to work!:mad: I thaught of buying a new car on leasing, and the plan is like this, I'll sell my 300ZX coz I really dont like it, and frankly I regret buying it, not because of mech. problems but the car doesn't taste like Z! after selling this car the real step comes, shall I buy a compact reliable car like TOYOTA yaris or corolla.. or go to higher stuff which considered as less reliable and have costly maintenance+insurance like Dodge Charger (which I admire its design between the latest models)? other thing, does anyone owe a Dodge DURANGO 5.7 HEMI? coz there is a guy in my nieghbourhood that wants to sell his car, well he wants someone to just continue paying the leased amount, it is 2005 and has 50000Km with full options! it has a 7 year waranty and remaining 5.5 years allready.. I hope that I can get a good advice from you people.. thanks.

I'm also a FI user, but have u tried to add some fuel into the carb's opening to let it flow to the combustion chamber to let the engine burn some fuel and to see weather it takes over for a while or not? that way u can ensure that it is a fuel supply problem.

I can't stop it, your babe has bigger ones in frontLOL

this topic is common between Z addicts, I personally experienced it, "when you use a Z, and taste the 1st generation, you wont ever like to drive other generations", those words are coming from a mouth of almost every Z owner that had an S30.. as you can see in the photos how the Z "developed"! as far as I heared, that the earliest design of the Z was inspired from the Italian sports cars on the hands of an Italian designer (not sure of that info) and it ended up with an Indian designer?? is it true? in my opinion, the Z was getting more ugly after each generation, loosing its taste, the long bonnet, the grills on it and the body trim! dimensions and visibility! it was perfected while the industry wasn't that accurate and much improved as now.. but unfortunately, our new Z's are made from plastic, plastic, plastic and plastic! ok I forgot the iron which is extremely flat with almost no details! does anybody agree? can'y Nissan dedicate a real Z generation to be cllected again, loved again and be the most sold model like older classic Z's? cheers! 6-z31.bmp

hey dude, dont be offended.. I like your babe:) take a good care of her for me ok.. cheerzz

well, well. well.. first of all, no offence to old guys from the older post:paranoid: I just wanted to say that some guys like Zsaint with his kidney thing might need a hyper soft rideROFL SORRY man, I'm just joking here all the love to all Z saints:love: but really, I appreciate the words of old guys here in this forum, and this is what really attracted me to this forum after it's name "classiczcars" coz older guys know what is a classic car, an original car that rides like a bride so we can get rid of wifes then, send my regads to the jelous wifes on your Z's Arne, nwcubsman,Victor Laury: thanx for the advise, it really gave my confidence in getting KYB's! beandip, well, you are a nother old guy which I respect his opinion so much, thanx for the tip, and BTW my car was originally sold in the US, exactly in Texas.. are the Euro springs that good or what? my springs are missed up with, they are cut to be lowered since I baught the car:disappoin shall I get Euro springs? from where can I get the cheapest? and if any body knows there weight in KG's it would be perfect so I can know what is the cost of shipping.. thanks to all guys, and I'm sorry for replying so late.. cheers.

well, the advantage of VB is that they have online catalog and they even send it for free, on the other hand, motorsport sell them, while I dont c why do they do that, since sending catalogs for free can really help thier market more!.. but I agree, they look more pro..

listen guys, I did a long search on Z forums about this matter, and it really sucks, coz some guys give thier own opinion about the term "soft" or "stiff" ride while every person considers it differently, I need a smooth ride (but not like riding a bout) because I have a stock 280Z and as u know the 2 seater really shackes u up when the road is rough since u are sitting between the rear whells I need an asnwer with numbers, from my search I saw the recommendation of KYB GR2 361002 for front and GR2 361003 for rear.. and tokico THZ 3012 and HPK 253 since Tokico is stiffer as people mentioned.. as I said, I'm not a racer type, I just enjoy the ride without feeling the "road unperfection" I dont go much above 80mph I dont even drift so much (dont think that I'm an old guy) so?:stupid: cheers!

yope! thanx ron, but unfortunatelly the "classicdatsun" has parts for 240Z's I have a 280Z, so I guess black dragon would be better right?

ok guys, I got the idea, I also received a Black dragon Auto catalog! thanx guys.

doesn't it have anything to do with the net hp at the wheels and the engine? coz I also thaught that it has less than 169!? maybe it was a secret that time when buyers went to buy those cars at the showrooms and the scandal showed up later on:D (joke)

thanks Tomohawk, I'll try the cleaning thing only, I dont want to screw up the spring tension thing:( about th adjustment, I knew that site earlier, and tha's why I choosed that AFM coz I considered it as an upgrade (I hope that it really is) thanks man..

I know that this issue have been discussed many times before, and I allready did a search through the forum, but I'm not asking about how to get rid of it (since I would like to fore sureLOL ) but my question is, is it normal to have a really strong smell? as much as it hurts the eye! when I smell the exhaust it seems to me that it is running rich, but with high rpm no black smoke comes out BUT if I drive it longer looks like that a rich mixture carbon is contaminated in the echaust line which comes out when I go full throttle at high speed and it is really much then! when I start to drive it is ok, after a 30min the smel gets worse and worse! note: I have a modified AFM that has a TOYOTA's casing with a Nissan's circuit board. I had a 280ZX, and the smell was MUCH less when I sniff the echaust tip (it didnt have a Cat. converter also) do I have to buy a new AFM?