BuDavid

hi guys, I just uploaded my short video clip for you guys.. I consider this a simple gift for this forum as a way to thank all of you guys who helped me in the progress of my Z.. embeded here.. it might take a while until it gets approved.. if it is too big let me know and I'll upload a lower quality video.. or click this link to open it through youtube.com

you welcome my friend..

what!? 1200$ for this? the question is, will it worth it if HE GIVES ME 1200$ with the car in order to have it and ride on it:) Answer: NO!

I don't see why they charge so much for shipping to the Netherlands!? to bahrain it cost me about 11$/KG internationally + the local shipping withing the US.. I deal with Aramex parcel services, they have the option of forwarding the stuff you get on an address inside the US and they charge you per half KG.. when purchasing, you pay only the local shipping which may cost about 27$ and then you pay Aramex the price per KG's you have.. call Aramex and ask them about the "shop and ship" service.. it is really worth it sometimes..

ok, thanks Stephen..

I never knew that Z's had oil Temp. guage!? what I know is that there is an oil pressure sending unit.. it is on the right side of the block, just next to the engine oil filter on the right side..

I have almost the same shape. mine are 555's they fit like originals.. I'm not sure about the dimensions between the holes you have on those ball joints.. but you can compare them with the previous ones and why not buying from MSA or Blackdragonauto? arn'e they available there?

oh ktm.. I see that I'm so famous allready with my switched springs:paranoid: and by the way. it is BuDavid;) cannot be Davidbu:) yes, I switched them acting that I was wise to put the spring with more coils at front and less at the back.. I found out that more coils sit behind meROFL I'm running on ST's and KYB's GR-2's and I'm satisfied with them.. but I think that the springs that MSA had before a while might be better.. not sure if they still have them.. they had Eibach's (FOR 280Z)! they put them for sale just after I installed my ST's:cry: so people.. NEVER SWITCH YOUR SPRINGS BETWEEN FRONT AND BACKROFL

congratulations.. looking forward to see the pictures..

the diagram drawn by BRE-240Z looks to me exactly the same as the parts I got from VB (well.. black dragon) the profile is the same but the question is weather they have the same quality from VB and Nissan's dealer.. and for sure, it can be a matter of price $$!

I'm not really sure of what are you asking about.. but I'd like to help with this attachment.. if it is not what are you asking about just ignore it.. good luck with the Fairlady..

sorry for the loss of your friend.. and I wish you good with your Z, either selling it or NOT selling it..

I vote for choice 2.. IF your Buick is in good condition and smoothly runs.. buying an almost 30 years old datsun may have some minor repair requirements which will cost you TIME and might end up a side of the highway.. 2+2 is still a 2 door car, means front seat passenger has to bug off when those guys from the back go in/out.. just save your money for the moment. collect more money than what you have right now and go for your DREAM CAR.. I had 2+2, didn't satisfy me a bit when I see a 2 seather pass by.. 2+2 is more practical for 4 passengers IN CASE of non existance of 4 door cars:) it was just an opinion.. good luck pal.

I'm very dissapointed in my Z32 car.. before couple of days I drove my car, I launched from zero to reach 6000RPM (happens only when I'm in the mood OR when my babe pass me with her Mercedes at the traffic lightROFL anywayz, I screwed up all my U-joints of my drive shaft which I really don't accept the idea of it having two parts! I replaced all 4 U-joints and center bearing, at the end I dind out that my drive shaft has bad balancing now I guess due to the slams it had when it got disabled from the differential.. I'll throw all this crap and put a solid drive shaft from a chevrolet caprice, I'll replace the ends and shorten it, and for sure eliminate the center bearing since there wil lbe no need for this crap anymore! I just need to get my car sold to but a nother 1977 280Z, it is in an excellent condition, Centerline wheels, from air dam.. but I guess the luck is running away from me now:hurt: wish me good luck guys:(

in my opinion all S30's are great cars, as TomoHawk said, the 280Z is sort of a corrected version of 240Z, on the other hand, what the 280Z miss now the idea of classic spirit, the SU's! the EFI is much more reliable than carbs but I would love to say that I have a dual carburated classic car.. I'm satisfied with my 280Z and I'm proud to know that the roots of my car are from the 240Z..

Wobbles1971, what a coencidence! there is a nother guy on the other half on the earth saying my words or what:) you beat me by 1 minute;)

I would say I love them. they are one of the reasons which I switched into S30's BUT depending on the style of the car and the color combination, if you want the racing sporty lok I would say, don't put them on, they look much classic and they give the "long body trim" view.. just an opinion.. good luck.

Arne, which p[lastic neck crack after time?? I didn't understand you very well.. but if you were referring to the brackets on top, they are very cheap and it wont bother me if they'll crack after 5 years from now.. if I got you right thugh.. but on the other hand, let us see the positive points, Aluminum radiator is more effecient than copper and more compact in "our case" .. and the best thing about the horizontal flow is than if you get some accumulation of dirt and rust at the bottom of the radiator you will loose the lower lines one by one, but in the vertical flow as with the OE radiator you get them all chocked at once.. but anyway, I'm waiting for your reply Arne, I need to know what will happen to be prepared:) thanks.. Viparz.. to let you know you'll have to wait until August;) by that time I'm sure that I'll forget this post completely:) cheers..

sorry for being so late, I was busy with the 4 U-JOINTS I distroyed in my 300ZX Z32:stupid: anywayz.. the combination is like this: -radiator of BMW325i 1988-1994 (they vary only with the transmission cooler at the side) -upper hose of 325i 1991 -lower hose of 535i 1990 -brackets of 525i 1988 (if I'm not mistaken') -strong plate to support the radiator's bushings seat for the left side ( I choosed left side to give space for the AFM and the condencer pipe.. ok let's start over.. pic #1: the first picture shows the overall result with some details (I hope they will be fine) pic. #2: in the second picture we see the top view of the upper hose, notice that the flange of the radiator is bigger than the L-Pipe and the thermostat flange.. pic. #3: the lower hose form the 535i. pic#4,5 and 6 show the lower seats of the radiator the left one is attached to a plate to reach the radiator from the body frame, it is just a plate wit holes to screw them with the body and a screw to hold the radiator's seat, while the right side the seat can be directly mounted on the frame with one screw (it will hurt when making holes in the frame):hurt: note that the 6th pic is from behind the alternator to show the right side mount through.. pic. #7 and 8 show the upper brackets from the 1990 BMW 525i the difference between the one that has bushing and without, they fit perfectly as if the were originals, the folding of the metal is exactly the same as it is in the BMW! pic. #9: the clearance between the 2 speed elec. fan and the pullies.. I'll get a nicer fan, I don't like this one. I'll make the second speed optional with the Temp sensor at 80C pic.#10: the secret path of the fans wire:) and I changed the Thermostat to 76C because the 82C was closing and opening too much, which caused unstability of the temp.. the radiator cools so much I guess:smoke: the 76C mainatained better because it opens faste which matches the heat exchange at the radiator.. we tried to make the fan stop and run depending on the Temp. but it didn't work because the sensor at the rariator gives different response than the Temp sensor of the dashboard gauge.. but I have to wait until summer comes so I will see the real ability of heat exchange at 54C!! this is the challenge with the A/C on! feel free to ask.. I'm here for you guys even if can't be here so much temporarely.. forgive my gramatical mistakes.. coz I'm in a bg hurry and I like to give the best help here.. wish me good luck in fixing/selling my Z32 to afford the price of a very clean 1977 280Z with centerline wheels!! I'm done from that car!! bye for now...

hi folks! I just finished a hard time changing the head gasket + intake-exhaust gasket.. and in the same time an experiment that I thaught of for a long time.. I took my car to my friend to replace my old ugly copper radiator which was leaking from eveywhere! (that I discovered when I saw it from the hidden side from the front)! I put into it an aluminum radiator from a BMW 325i 1995, and guess what, this is a two row radiator and fits really good, we needed to use a plate with about 3 inches to attach the bushing mount, the upper part is held with original BMW clamps of the radiator:) we needed to modify an L shape pipe with a filling cap, guess what, it is even in a better position than the previous one on top of the radiator, because it is at the gighest point right now.. I removed the thermostat that I had before 82C with a new one of 76C.. removed the clutch fan and put a two speed electric fan which can be driven directly at first speed and the second can be an addition depending on a Temp. switch mounted on the radiator itself .. I'm very satisfied until now, but I'm curoius about the situation in the summer with the A/C on, right now, the heat dessipation is very good coz it is a corss flow radiator and when I touch the colder side, it is very cool relatively to the previous one. I would like to have a bigger/slimmer fan with bigger shrowd to force the cooling arround the whole area of the radiator, but didnt find a proper sized fan yet! cheers!

my 1977 280Z is running on 225/60 R14, I'm satisfied and they never rubbed.. the hight should be very close to stock hight of 195/70 R14.. the overall tire radius affects the speedometer reading, while width is more about grip, steering and sometimes rubbing depending on the offset.

check the attachment, there is a picture from one of the old threads, the red arrow is pointing at the hose connecting the PCV valve to the block pipe. goes to the center of the intake..

In case you have the hose in its place, you will see a hose a hose from the left side of the engine under the intake, coming from a pipe STABED into the block:) and going up to the bottom of the intake, you can not see it by eyes, you'll need a mirror or by touching you can find it.. btw, if the hose is not there and openings not plugged, that will cause you a big vacume leak and getting much dirt in your engine oil. go open the bonnet and put your hand under the intake.. make sure that it is cold so you wont harm your hand from the heat of the exhaust.

I don't see what is so special in this car bro!? man be good to your self, get a nother Z:)

Austen, this was an attachment of a reply to my thread posted by Stephen Blakeney (Sblake01) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8970&d=1123955666 the illustration is scanned from the owners manual of a 1975-78 280Z. I hope it will make things more clear .