BuDavid

actually, the temperature to drive here is winter, doesn't rain much, maybe few times/mounth.. but never driven it in the rain!

I've checked it, the priced jumped to 2000$ I've seen a GT-33 here in Bahrain but not anymore, an older guy had it, but no one recognised what was it all about, it was under evaluated.. I have no idea where is it rith now. the car look pretty original, if so, I guess that car can worth something higher that usual with those modifications that it has.

well this one deservs a bullit into my brain! I lifted my beloved Z using a 4 point car lift to replace the front control arm bushings. I replaced them and I reached the point of installing the front anti-roll bar, well since the car was lifted, the snti-sway bar links were far a bit from the cntrol arm holes. I mad idea came into my mind saying "why don't you put the wheel under the control arm and lower the car so it will be pused upwards and the bolt will go into your control arm's hool'e!" I did that, while I was standing next to it suddnly the car took a rotating motion and I froze coz I douldn't figure out at the firs second what the hell is going on!:paranoid: well, I had I guess 98% luck that moment, the wheel under the control arm of corse was round (as it is with almost all wheels in the world) I was s tupid that I put a wheel that rolled and twisted when it was pushed by the control arm the was turned upwards! the car got hooked with 3 legs from the car lift from the : 1-transmission (bent the fender just under the emblem side) 2-left fender (also the thin sheet bent under the emblem) 3-the normal jacking point at the rear and the forth leg was free in the air! I almost had my Z fallen of the lift without wheels on! I felt more what an idiot that day! 2-

Geezer, this paint job looks horrible to me if you noticed the ducts under the hood that go to the fender. the painter didn't bother to remove them!? besides the bid reached 4000$ allready.. it might go even higher.. the one I saw on the classified ads of our club (I posted the link in earlier thread) look uch better for 6000$ OBO, but the guy is not replying, maybe he is not a club member, dosn't check PM's regularly.. as mentioned before, it might take longer time to find a worthy Z, I can wait, I don't want to buy any Z just for having a Z if you know what I mean.. thanks anyway.. cheers.

ok 5150, I'll focus on those locations.. and let me know if there is any which is worth it.. I mentioned Texas just because of that I friend can handle the shipping process and do the deal in person.. thanks for the advice..

Rick, at the first moment I couldn't figure out why would you get it, but from your last reply I understand what is it all about.. if you use your car as your daily driver, then I think it is usefull. but from the appearance point of view, they look wierd man, they look big don't they? don't take it in a negative way, but I think the car looks better without them. maybe I'm wrong. just a thought.. cheers

you'll regret selling itLOL

well, that Z look great! I really don't care if the car is too original, what I wan is original equipment and auxiliaries, no problem if the engine was swapped like if it was a 240 with an L28 block in it... I don't need pictures to make sure that that Z is good, I have a friend in Texas who can check the Z for me and ship it also.. but that guy is a corvette guy, so I'm not sure weather he'll know what to look for on a Z, that's why I'd rather confirm it with a club member or at least an owner who knows how handle Z's! thanks Bob.

ok, some small rust spots can be accepted, but not that CANCER type rust the eats the panels and mainly the floors + chassis, I need it to pass the technical control of the traffic department as soon I bring it.. I don't say that I should get one for 2500$, but I've seen some Z's that cost 10000$ and more.. which I think that this isn't my range for an import.. I have to pay for sipping and insurace, I can go for max. of 6000$ as an X Z owner, I really don't like to have worse can that I had. because I'll keep on regreting selling the previous one! I need a better one:cry: having my Silver 280 really cured me from the 280ZX that I sold before for my travelling/study purpose since it was an S30 and in much better shape (much less rust) almost 98% rust free!

does anybody know this Z? or lives close to it? http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2031&cat=1 looks nice..

simply beautifull!

someone here knows arabic better than me??:lick: kidding.. and WAW!! too many replies within one day! ok, let's not make the transmission issue bigger over here, I practical test can be a true evidence by measurement in a classical way.. but I like the 5-speed trans. because it drops the RPM on the haighway, less noise and fuel consumption.. defenately engines life. I guess I'm more pulled now to a 240, since it is more "mechanical" and I beleave that it can't beat the EFI in control.. also it will have the bumpers that I wouldn't eliminate. Dogma, your reply was really good and direct.. I thank you for it. and as for most of the replies stating that it is a 30 year old car and has many things to be replaced.. oh yes, I consider replacing all bushings below + shocks and springs.. I'd go for "1 drop by eibach if I get one.. as I learned from my previous Z, replacing them will bring back the sould of the car even if it was a 30 year old car.. I also read that some guys moded thier 240's with rear sway bars! if so, I'd do it also, it wo'nt be a big job for me.. but did 240's have good AC's? and what about rust issues.. maybe it is easier to find a rust free 280Z thatn a rust free 240Z.. guys if anyone knows any good rust free 240Z with nice carbs I would go for it.. if of course it is worthy, I don't want those Z's priced too high just because they say that it is totally "rebuilt" or they are show cars.. I would mostly like to get a Z from a good member of this club, from a grown up who doesn't use it for races.. if anyone knows personally about a real good one let me know about it.. specially from AZ, I heared that there are the best ones because of the dry climate. cheers..

I know about the 4 sped and the 5 speed difference, that's why I'd like to have 5 speed for sure. but what was all about the fuel pump?? I can't figure out why did yo umention it now:)

nothing sounds like a kid.. see the attached pic. #60

massive dust, yeah tell me about itLOL sometimes I have the feeling that we breat 20 dust over here when there is a sandstorm:) if bumpers cause instability, they will be falling of baby!!:laugh: on my X - 280Z I had a borg warner T5, it was heavy a bit but nice ratios! I would definately change from 4 speed to 5 speed if I find one! thanks.

Arne, I always consider your advices. I know what do you mean.. but I think Datsun was forced to changed the bumper style due to some US regulation that time.. and at the end, both of them are S30's arn't they? bumpers are interchangeable aith a very slight modification.. I'll customize bumpers if I don't find any 240's.. all that I'm worried about is that a 240 might have weaker body shell.. I assume that because I never had one, my uncle had one in UK, he always told me to go for a 240 not a 280. and bout getting from EU, man, they cost more there and shipping them from there is a headache, besides they have snow, I wont risk it with a Z from there. same thoughts here, that what makes me confused:( but I "think" that a 280 is mechanically better regarding stability at higher speeds and suspension and maybe also the engine! not sure, never tried a 240, I can't judge..

about prices, you wouldn't like to buy a strut mount insulator for the rear strut if it fails!! much more expensive than a 240;) cheers.

I think even a 9V can harm if the source is capable to produce a high current.. you just have to touch the terminal within a blink, not connecting them.. an electrician can help.. but be carefull, the injector holds fuel inside, it is not always empty:) and the signal can be checked from the plug that goes to the injector that has two terminals. be carefull with electronics, you can spoil them if you don't know how to deal with them ok. good luck..

Stephen, absolutly no hard feelings from my side.. I respect the way you explain, it was my mistake to jump in with that idea that fast. but I didn't expect such a quick response that's why I withdrawed my suggestion of using 12V when I noticed later.. I should be carefull next time give those hints.. that was good that you followed it up. corrao, this is a good example of learning without doing a mistake. you can ask about it or try it on a leaky worthless injector that no one needs, you can notice how it works without risking your injectors. good luck.

yeah, and when it is windy it rains bricksROFL it wont be my daily driver, I'll use it maybe once a week or maybe less.. I allready have a 1982 BMW 525i(daily driver) and the 2000 BMW E39 M5 (the beast) so the car will be parked, covered under a shaded place at my house where only dust can reach it from below.. I'm just worried that 240 might feel less rigid than a 280. EFI or Carbs, I have no problem using either of them.. I think Carbs sound more classic and fun to have.. I read few times that a 280 is just a 240 with improvements such as rear sway bar, AC vents and stronger chassis. cheers..

use a volt meter and check the signal coming to the injectors, this is an easy step that wont harm.. or at least you'll feel the clicking while holding the injector with bare hand.

oh my god corrao! from your last post I have the feeling that you will destroy the injector.. I told you that would be the last thing that you should do, do the steps that Stephen told you before, check the signal first.. don't do anything with them, I feel sorry telling you about shocking them.. Stephen, I'm aware of what I've done before, I know the electrical basics regarding solenoids, I did it based on my knowladge, I also cautioned him before not to do it without being experienced with it.. corrao, please don't do what I told you unless you have lower voltage supply, coz I have the feeling that you don't know how fast you should connect it. and BTW, they don't make a bang, they just knock or click, that would be more correct (my bad english).. almost like a spark plug when sparks outside the chamber.. do what Stephen is telling you step by step.. he is a very good EFI guy.. don't rush, waste a minute to save an hour of a mess! you don't want to buy a new injector because som missunderstanding a post.. I'm just trying to help, I didn't mean to harm.. thank you Stephen for clearing up the point.

Sailor Bob, yeah, rust is a big issue, I hope that I can find a rust free one. I don't have time to strip it to bare metal and repaint it after I purchase it..

graet alloys you are having on that Z! they are really lusty! replace the hoses, at the end it wasn't a waste of time and energy removing the fuel rail.

Hello Montezuma.. from the States to Bahrain, I don't want a Z from here, very few are those which worth it.. coz guys here don't know how to maintain a Z! I'd like to have one from Texas or Arizona where are the best Z's as far as I heared. coz spare parts are not available here for S30's unless you order them (which I know how to do it) cheers.