BuDavid

haha, in the garage? if women will be having sort of special pleasure in the garage, then why not? they would love it (from my experience garages can be really exotic) and my old core is gone now, thrown away by a friend, thats why I needed a complete AFM.. but unfortunatelly, I sold my Z:( but anyway thank you guys, I might need this info in the future, coz I'm getting a nother Z for sure!!

I had a Z 32, man can't compare it to me 77 280Z.. I'll never go back to any other Z than S30's! I didn't have troubles with the Z32m but the ride pleasure is too low in it unlike the S30.

the ones I purchased were 555, anyways, good luck finding the proper O-ring. cheers.

yeah I remember this part, this should come with the ball joint I guess.. but a sealan should be able to take care coz there is no differential pressure which might force the dirt to come in.. but if you take the old one and go arround spare parts shop or any industrial shops you can find similar one, coz it is just a simple O-ring, not a big deal to be baught from a specialized dealer of S30s good luck pal.

maybe he is blindROFL

niZe! they look really alive!!

do them like this and by flipping them you'll not have any difference in the caster thing.. check the lengths of the sleeves on right and left.. they might differ.. did u do the checks that I mentioned before lifting the car? it could be a waste of time and energy doing this before knowing where is the wrong dimension..

I expected that you'll reply to this thread Arne, I didn't want to bother you by a PM since we had disscussed this issue before on a quick way.. I'm running 225/60/-14 but for those wire wheels, I think going to 15 would look nicer with maybe 225/55-15?? I know that not many people use those rims, but they look really hot according to me.. and I really need to know more about them, new or used..

Montezuma, you want to tell me that you got it by 169$ + core from MSA? ok I don't understand the core charge then!? shall I talk to anyone there? coz I think once somebody mentioned Abraham from MSA who knew better than others.. David on the link you sent, there are too many manufactures I think, other than BOSCH like borg warner, beck arnley..etc.. is anyone of them supposed to be the one that MSA or VB sell?

check this out http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21805&highlight=compression+rod+bushing you'll see more pictures if you scroll down with it.. I hope it would be clear..

man, before lifting the car, do your measurements, make sure about the distances between the front/rear wheels.. the sleeve I was talking about is located at the threaded side of the Compression rod.. actually it is hidden inside the compression rod's bushings. it the picture I posted previously, it is the piece of pipe shaped part which is located between numbers 7-7.. specificly has lighter color.. the sleeve will be between the washers which are in front of the bushing and the other washer which is at the back of the bushings.. I hope that would help

sorry for the late reply.. I didn't get a notice on my email:( for sure, Nissan's AFM, that Toyota's crap don't seem right to me.. and the Question was from where, the dealer told me that it would cost me about 925$ which sounds really wrong! from VB I can get it arround 220$! is there a better deal than VB?

guys, I allready did my search about this information. but I need a word of advice from an experienced people from here.. I'm thinking of wire wheels, I saw daytonwire wheels and I really don't know which to choose and how much will they cost.. tire width/offset and radius.. if I want a 225/60/14 overall size with 15" wheel, how much would it cost? and if they are too expensive, anybody knows someone who has used ones? usually wire wheels used with Zeds are 14" or bigger? http://daytonwirewheels.com/pdf/knockoffpricesheet.pdf http://daytonwirewheels.com/pdf/classicsellsheetweb.pdf http://daytonwirewheels.com/pdf/boltonsellsheetweb.pdf then there is the matter of number of lugs... etc.. advice needed guys.. help

abot the LCA, the longer part should face back the back (check the pic.), the workshop screwed it up once putting one facing the rear and other the front, but now job is done.. the clearance between the fender's front/rear differnces can be checked using a measurement tape: get a helper, measure the length between the center of left front/back wheels, compare it with the right front/back wheels, they should be the same or with + or - few mellimeters.. if they are not the same, and considering that you are sure that your car never had an accident (even pavement issues) measure the length of your TC rods (measuring points are the bolts on the LCA's to the first washer of yor TCrods bushings.. if also they have the same lenght, try to check the length of the sleeve inside those bushings, this can affect the distance of wheels.. another easy check is those bushings weather if they were worn (I should state it in the first place anyway) then if all seems to be correct, man the car had an accident and you have to live with that matterLOL if all above is ok.. try to find out weather the point where the TC rods are supported to the chassis are in the same position, because if they were hit, they can push forth or back the chole TC rod.. I hope that you don't have the possibility of the "accident" and just end up replacing the sleeve or bushings only.. good luck..

then enjoy "couldING" manLOL I couldn't yet:knockedou

I guess I should have a bumper, if extending 1/2" did the job, I would also go for it.. but without a bumper it would look so silly having longer tailpipe:(

hi guys, I'm sick of my AFM, it is a toyota's upgreaded AFM with a Z's circuit board, and I think it is making a really horrible air/fuel mixture, I'm in need of a new AFM, used ones never were good from my experience.. does anyone know from where I can get the best price for a whole AFM? I need one with the core.. coz I don't have an original core to exchange besides shipping the core will cost me about the same price of the core itself! black dragon have the best privce from what I searched, I don't know if there are better deals elsewhere.. I would be thankfull to have an advice guys.. thanks!

I'm happy with my ST's + KYB's.. about the price from jazz.. did you consider buying shock boots+bump stops? this will add about 100$ or a bit more I guess... Eibach have good reputation, but I don't know weather you'll engoy the progressive feature or not, from my point of vew, if you drive mostly on a rough road (bad road) progressive might be bad in such a way that you'll be always close to maximum copression of the spring, while non progressive will resist compression linearly.. but on highways I think progressive perform much nicer with the smoothness of the softer portion of coils.. it is just an opinion Ramses..

why did you drive the car without the panels David? just curious question:)

ok that issue is making me feel really "blended in" the Z community! I do also smeel like an exhaust tip after a 20min drive with a window cracker open.. but the sad thing is that I don't have a rear bumper that I can extend the exhaust tip to it:dead: what the hell now? shall I wish a bumper on my birthday or just get used to enjoy breathing CO until I get violet skin color!?:hurt: besides, I don't want that 280Z bumper back in place because I wont really feel good having a bumper that has half a kilometer of length behind me:cry: is making a narrower exhaust tip a mart plan to do? in this case I'll increase the gas pressure which will force the gasses to flow further away from the car and will not be able to recerculate within the "air bubble" behind the car at higher speeds..

glad that you found it and solved it.. enjoy turning peacefullyROFL

I would say replace the faulty relay, don't fix cheap components than can easily get damaged again. changing them will save you time and energy for the next fix.. but make sure that it is a relay problem or not.

as far as I know, the headers wont give you much hp without porting the exhaust path out from the engine's head.. but many say that it does improve.. but consider the size of the headers under the hood and the heat dissipation under the hood also.. I would stick with my stock long type mainfold.

+1! check out with hybridz.org also, it might help more.

I'm not an expert in this, but isn't there a relay for the turn signals? maybe it is faulty if so.. but for the time being, avoid turning so much:p