1973Z

Congrats on your first Z! Once you are bitten with the Z bug there is no going back.

As others have said, move along and get a much better car.

My gas flange looks like yours as well and that nice looking BMW cap I purchased did not fit either. :mad:

That is a good looking Ford. I also agree that the Z needs the garage or it would dissolve into a rust pile!

You are a patient man to wait one year before bumping this thread! I agree that article would be an interesting read.

I have one of the small battery tenders from Griots and keep that on my Optima Red top with no issues.

Welcome and have fun bringing the Z back to greatness.

Congrats and best of luck with your Z, welcome!

I had R - spec Avons 205X55X14 when I was Autocrossing - very small wheel/tire combo but my car is lowered so it didn't look too silly. Stuck like glue.

I highly recommend Colin Messer's "How to Keep Your Datsun/Nissan Alive". It is not Z-car specific, but a great Do-It-Yourself book for working on Datsuns. Good luck in your Z-car quest, you will become infected with the Z Virus!

I would suggest you stay with an original car so you can start with a clean slate. Then you can decide what you want to change about it ...which might be nothing! Buy the most rust free car you can find/afford and I think you will be happy with your classic car. You will have to perform regular repairs on the car because it is an old car. But, when things are running right, the 240Z will place a permanent grin on your face!

While some of the specs are close, I think we can come up with a more inspiring car to compare to the 240z! I think Nissan's 240SX is a closer comparison, albeit not a new car on the market today.

Mine is 162340 - It has the green pull hazard switch

Escanlon, I agree with your post. Too often members of this board get super critical on any Z-car bringing good money. We have to assume that the bidders did their research as to what the current market prices are bringing for the conditions sought, and that they probably went out to inspect the vehicle rather than just relying on pictures and forum board comments. This site and others like Carl's provide fantastic information on what to look for when buying a Z - but to totally tear a car and seller down without having met either, doesn't seem right. Let's not tear down Z-car values, let's try to raise both awareness and prices! I like seeing that my beloved 35+year old pride and joy is worth more than a 5 year old Honda Civic ...$.02

Carl, Thanks for researching this further. Glad I could contribute to some Z knowledge! Regards, Steve

Hi Carl, I will send you a picture of that area in the next few days - thanks for helping with the mystery! My car by the way is vin 162340 produced 5/73. There was a '73 dash that sold on ebay (cracked) for over $170 recently, it too had the smooth area by the hazard switch. I can't believe cracked dashes are fetching money now .. we are in a sad state of Z affairs!

Welcome to the world of "Z"! You will love the 240 they are awesome, classic sports cars.

Bonzi - thanks for the confirmation of the smooth area to side of the hazard switch. Carl, I think there is a difference between the '72 and '73 dash. My '73 and Bonzi's looks like the early dash in your picture (smooth area, no cross indent) with the exception that it has the green pull hazard switch/lighter. Maybe only the '72 has the indent?

Question - My 1973's dash has no cross shaped indent mark near the hazard switch (it is smooth) - is this correct? How can you visually tell the difference between the '72 and '73 dash? According to Zhome.com, my dash should have the indentation?

Question - My 1973's dash has no cross shaped indent mark near the hazard switch (it is smooth) - is this correct? How can you visually tell the difference between the '72 and '73 dash? According to Zhome.com, my dash should have the indentation?

Thanks everyone, I will give the suggestions a try this coming weekend.

Thanks Dogma, I can certainly try my other set of wheels/tires (used for Autox) and see if the problem is still there.

Thanks guys, I did search, and I could not find the same symptoms I am experiencing. I had the inner/outter tie rods and the rack replaced two years ago and now have approx. 5,000 miles on them. There is no shimmy when braking.

When driving on the highway today (speed did not seem to matter much 65-75mph), the steering wheel was fine (very little vibration) when going straight, but on long sweepers the steering wheel would shake until straighted out again. It did this on both left and right turns. Any ideas on what this could be?

I noticed that too, I think it is for "mother" as in laughing my mother f.. a$$ off.