EricB

Wow... what a thread... bummer, too... I've gone out an bought 89-94 240SX calipers and a set of 83-84 300ZX rotors and all I need is Ross' bracket to complete my rear disc swap... If he's not answering emails (or his phone, I just checked and it rang and rang), has anyone made a similar bracket with the correct spacing for this combination? Thanks, -e

Hi I have a 73 with Euro / Japanese 72 and earlier bumpers. Provided you get the earlier style bumper brackets it will bolt on to your 73 No mods required

Hi all Has anyone successfully placed an order on modern-Motorsports.com? I've been trying for a couple months with no luck. I get to the shipping address section of the checkout process, hit Next and can't proceed further, it always returns me back to the same window. I've emailed them repeatedly about this and the only answer I get is a semi-automated one saying the webmaster will have the cart issue resolved in a couple days... But it's been over 2 months... Anyone else having this issue? I tested on both Safari & Firefox to see if maybe it was a web browser issue and got the same result... -e

bump ?

Hi all I'm looking for a pair of 280Z (27spline) companion flanges - if you've got a set to sell please contact me. Also can someone verify if the "A", "B", "C" stub axle side bearing spacers have different inner diameters over the years? I ask because my 280Z stub axles have "B" spacers and they feel kind of loose, and I've got a second set of "B" spacers on some 240Z stub axles and they seem to fit better (tighter) there... If interested, I've got a complete set of 240Z (25spline) stub axles & companion flanges for sale / trade ?? The old stub axle side bearing is still pressed on, but the stock wheel studs were removed. As mentioned above it comes with a set of "B" wheel bearing spacers. Let me know, Thx. -e

Thx John

Hi all The fluid fitting size is M14x1.5 for both inlet and outlet. What I've read indicates that Nissan recommended -8 AN lines to a pump + cooler, but if you look at the inner diameter of the metric end of a M14x1.5 to -8AN adapter it seems tiny! It's almost 1/4"... that seems like a mighty small hole to push fluid through... i want to believe Nissan got it right of course... but it just seems so small, not to mention that both the inlet and outlet are located at the same height - approx 1" above the bottom of the cover. Has anyone tried using the main bottom drain plug as an outlet to cooler?

<bump> nobody has this part? alright, I'll figure it out - had to ask cause it saved me a trip to the hardware store... i'll report back if anyone's curious. -e

Hi all, I have an old Nissan Comp (P/N 38351-P9010K) R200 Finned Cover I am about to put into service, however it did not come with literature, nor does the Nissan Comp parts catalog that I have list what I need. I'm looking for the thread size of the two fluid holes at the back of the cover where you should connect the -8 oil lines to diff pump & cooler. Can someone confirm if they are indeed M16x1.5? I've got nothing in my box of fittings that is remotely close & so I need to buy a new pair of straight AN adapters. Thanks, -e

But it too has some kind of friction modifier already mixed in with the oil right? I'll add some friction modifier to the 75w140 oil I got & see how I get on. Thanks all!

Oh ok I get it now Thanks for the explanations...

Hi all Wanted to add a note about the hybridz link written by John Coffey above. He listed mcmaster Carr & koni part numbers for the right spanner & gland nut. Koni does not stock the gland nut in the US. They had to special order from Holland. By the time I finally got it, it felt loose when I threaded it into ZX strut housing. Correct pitch & thread but diameter felt a hair small. I put it all together. Took it out for an installation lap around the block. The koni gland nut popped right out! I took it all apart & breathed a big sigh of relief when I saw that the strut housing threads didn't get damaged. I used a stock zx gland nut instead & it all bolted back together fine. I'm not saying John C's part number was wrong. I just think Koni pulled the wrong part from their bins. It was 1mm off in diameter - check what they send you...

Nissan recommends 75w140 oil for their 2way clutch type LSD. I did some research & found a bunch of people who said they switched to redline 75w90 combined with redline's diff friction modifier. Those who did said it quieted the diff down a lot. I'm wondering why that is. If a different weight oil minimizes the amount of chatter does it mean it's making the clutch plates slip against each other more easily & therefore is making the diff less effective with less bite? So in other words it's actually a bad thing? Or am I seeing this wrong? Your thoughts please? Thanks -e

Of course switching to RH on both sides makes sense... I just wonder how long until even these are NLA and then we will really have to find an alternative... The other bummer is that some of the aftermarket vendors who make heim-joint tie rods for example are still doing so with both lhd and rhd threads in the sets they sell. I did talk to Dave @ Arizona z car the other day and he said that a fix was on his to do list of things to create in the coming months... Will be interesting to see what he can come up with. In the meantime I'll work on a way to adapt some of the newer Nissan tie rods to our Z cars...

Hi all Sorry to dredge up an old post but I now also face the same problem.. driver (left) side is NLA... I've checked the ones I am pulling off the car and left and right do have different threads on the ends where the outers screw on... I was sold two rights but they don't work for me what are people doing to remedy the situation? retrofit different nissan model car inner & outers? thanks, -e

Thanks John

Hi Can someone recommend a good driveshaft shop in the greater LA area? Thanks, -e

thanks all i'm good to go. -e

Like I said, I'm replacing ball joints on my 240. The ones I'm removing obviously fit. The ones I was sold (by MSA) were supposed to fit, but clearly don't. That's why I was asking if there's a different part number for 260 / 280 or even for early/late 240. the holes are easily off by a 1/4" or more... that's why i'm wondering if i was sent the wrong part...

John Thanks for the reply. The fitment issue is not between the ball joint and the steering knuckle (I have some Nismo short steering knuckles FYI). The fitment issue is the 4 bolts that attach the ball joint to the lower control arm - that's where I am seeing the discrepancy... Thanks for the details nonetheless... I wasn't aware the earlier ones were becoming NLA. Good to know -e

Hi guys does anyone know if the front balljoints change throughout the S30s model years? are there different part numbers between '69 and '78? I ask because I bought some ball joints which were supposed to be for my '73 and while they do look identical to the ones currently on the car (even down to the grease fitting), they don't line up with the holes in my lower control arm. If you put the new balljoint in the LCA opening so that it sits flush, the holes are easily 1/4" off... Was I sold the wrong part or have some of you experience this? BTW is the grease fitting a metric size? I've got a (cheap) grease gun from Harbor Freight and it's near impossible for it to seal well against the fitting. Seems like I get more grease in my lap than what's actually going in to the fitting... Thanks, -e

You're right... I also read the related topic in BetaMotorsport's "bench racing" section... fun stuff...

Thanks Dave... -e

Hi all, I picked up some used ZX cv half-shafts. However they're disassembled. Its obvious enough the longer half shaft goes on passenger side & shorter one on driver side since the diff itself is not centered on the car. But what about the ends that plug into the diff? Please confirm the longer one goes on driver side & shorter one on passenger side. Is that correct? Thanks -e

ok cool. thanks... can't find my hybridz login anywhere... guess i need a new one... this brings me to my next question: anyone have a set of 280z hubs to sell? thx all, -e