EricB

<bump> anyone? thanks,

Hi all, I am about to switch out my stock 73 240Z strut housings for a set of the larger diameter 280Z housings. Can I carry over my stock 240Z hubs / brakes to the new 280z front spindles, or do I need to get those off of a 280Z as well? Are there any offset differences I should be aware of? Thanks in advance, -e

Phillip et al, You guys HAVE to go to the Revival. PERIOD. I have been going to Monterey Historics religiously for 16years, yet this was my first time attending the Revival and it was simply spectacular. The period clothing, the bikes and scooters, the airplanes, and of course the cars make for an amazing experience. I was almost a bit overwhelmed when I first got there... It's so very worth it. I booked accomodations late and closest I could find was a B&B in Brighton on the seafront which turned out to be pretty good. Most odd car I saw on the drive to the track Saturday morning had to hands down be an 80s two-tone Chevy Caprice... really clean too... but it looked SO FOREIGN on the b-roads leading to Chichester where the Revival is held... too shocked to take a pic, really... Oh and for the tourists: Stonehenge is about 90min away to the northwest. We went after Saturday's racing wound down - and got there 15minutes after it closed... we were surprised to see it had visiting hours - guess we could have thought of that one too a bit more... so without me rambling on, make plans to attend the revival next year - it's well worth it!!!! -e

pics from the Earl's Court area

Alan I made it to the Revival on Saturday. Had to leave early on Sunday and couldn't attend Day3. Saw the GTR in the Earl's Court show. Looked absolutely immaculate - even more beautiful in real life than in the photos I had seen when you first received it... Wish I could have heard it too - maybe next time. Looked great in the middle of all the European vintage machinery. -e

you can also use 5/8" rod in combination with the grease thing that works well too.

Thanks Michael PM sent. -e

Hi all Thanks for the replies. Let me add that I have two factory rear bars in different diameters - that's why bending the bracket back into service would be key. I do also have a set of the L-shaped brackets that are used by suspension techniques-style rear bars. I was curious to hear if there was any kind of advantage going with one over the other, purely based on how it attaches to car/geometry on a lowered Z/etc... Sorry again if I was unclear before. ED: can i see a pic of the bracket end plates you got off the 74 donor car? Does the end opposite the M12 bolt have a return in it and hooks into the frame bracket, or is it straight and merely locates in the hole?

Does someone have a purple 21tooth speedo pinion gear they aren't using? I have a brand new blue, red, and a white one which I don't need. Care to trade? Or I am willing to buy if you dont want to trade Thanks! -e

Morning all, Everything below relates to a 1973 which came with the factory welded in u-shaped brackets for a stock rear swaybar. ... however one of those u-shaped brackets was bent/flattened open so that it very nearly touches floorpan. I've tried to bend it back but it aint easy to budge. The car is also missing the M12 bolt-in brackets that hold sway bar / sway bar bushing into the U-shaped brackets. These seem to be NLA. Guess I would have to make something. i have seen the through the floor drill/bolt bracket set-up MSA sells for rear swaybar conversions but didn't like the looks of it. i also have a set of the L-shaped rear end brackets on either side of the diff which allow for a rear mounted swaybar (located rearward of the diff). These attach to the trunk floor pan and the rear transverse link, they are labelled as #2 in the attached sus diagram. -> Is there a commonly held belief that one type of rear bar is better suited than the other? I'd love to be able to use the factory bracket if I can bend the flattened u-shaped back to form and make something to hold the sway bar in place. Guess I'll just have to see how much stress that puts in the metal & how straight I can get it. Then again finding a rear bar to bolt to the L-shaped brackets that hold the rear transverse link would surely be a lot easier... Thanks guys, -e

good point Jon... guess I am in need of some new hubs then... i'll start a separate thread. thanks

Cool Esprist. looking forward to it... Thanks, -e

Hi all I recently won a series of R200 parts from Blake on eBay including mustache bar, the L-shaped rear sway bar mounts, a new diff strap + bolts. However I am missing the lower bracket to swap my R200 into my 73 240Z. Does any one have one for sale? I am referring to the lower curved one that goes around the rear bottom of the diff cover. I think I have everything else I need for the swap... Anyone? Thanks in advance, -e

Jon sorry. I mis-typed. I was referring to the post you have on the previous page about making 4 reinforcing plates from the template and putting them on the underside of the strut tower... my bad. regarding the hubs though, can I use 240Z hubs on 280z spindle/strut housings? Or does everything need to be 280z up front for caliper/rotor to line up right? Thanks, -e

Hi guys i wanted to add something to this discussion... i am in the process of doing the same mod to my 73 as well. have the struts sectioned and the new perch welded on. Need to worry about the top of the strut towers now as well. it's good to hear you recommend XXX 1/8" plate for the reinforcing plate. XXX anyways, my question here is regarding hubs... can i re-use my 240hubs on the 280 struts or do I need to swap those out to 280 as well? Thanks guys, -e

Jan drive that z already!

ya... sorry... -19ET on the rear 9.5s my bad... fronts could probably be a little bit bigger to match the rears... all in due time, i guess...

Hi all I recently ordered some Bride FO slider seat rails from a company called Greenline Motorsports - they are a Hong Kong based shop with a location in Japan that will conveniently sell you any Japanese parts and ship them to you regardless of where you are in the world... So I ordered some FO type slider seat rails for my S30 with then intent to use them in conjunction with an older Recaro SPG I've got from a previous car. While everything did bolt in exactly as expected, it turns out that the end result puts the Recaro SPG about 2" higher than the stock seat, and that unfortunately is a big problem when you are 6'2" So FYI, if you are putting in a modern bucket seat, but want to retain a sliding seat - don't get these rails if you are above 6' tall - it just won't work - you'll never have the room to sit down and put a helmet on without rubbing the headliner. If you're right on the cusp of 6' tall, you could take out about 1" from these rails with some cutting/hacking... but probably no more... -e

Hi Jon Yes I do plan to use camber plates... Have the strut tower already marked up for cutting but haven't gone through with it yet

Hi all, Like many other late 73 240 owners I too have the downward facing "C" shaped rear swaybar bracket welded to the chassis but no swaybar. I'd like to see a pic of a 260 or 280Z with the factory bar because I am after the plate that bolts into that bracket and holds both the bushing and sway bar in place. I called Courtesy and while they can find the right exploded diagram for that part of the car on the 260 and 280, and can produce a part number for the rubber bushing, they cannot find any indication for the plate. Before I make my own, I wanted to see what the factory one looks like. Could a 260/280 owner please post a pic of what their stock setup looks like? I'd rather use the factory welded bracket to mount my own rear bar, rather than cutting it off, and then drilling through the floor, to mount the MSA rear bar bracket... Thanks, -e

Jon 1973 240z 280z housings front & rear (I did get the rear stub axles + spacers with them) AD struts & GC camber plates I still for the time being have stock 240z brakes & hubs on the car I will swap to rear disk at some point, maybe not right now unless the rear 280 housing mandates the use of the matching rear stub axle which it itself requires something else than rear 240z brakes Need anything else? thanks -e

John & Jon Thanks again for the extra details. This stuff along with the strut sectioning FAQ on HybridZ is perfect. Random question: while I am pretty sure that the front hub will be unaffected by changing from 240 to 280 housings (bearing part numbers don't change), it looks like there is a different rear stub axle for 280, so I can't re-use my 240 one right? -e

jon - I measured the spacers GC included and they are definitely 1.5". Not 3" like you were saying. The dimension you gave is an approximate one (depending on rates/spring length/etc) or should it be exactly 3"? Thanks guys

john - thanks for the reply. I guess I'm looking for a ballpark location as to where to weld. I can always & probably will get different springs while I am fine tuning the rates. You posted a pic of your coilovers with EMI camber plates & I thought I recognized the same AD struts as what I have. In that pic it seemed like yr threaded coilover sleeve was flush with the underside of the gland nut. If they are in fact AD struts then you would have used the same 280z housings & would probably have sectioned them the same amount, no? Did I not see things right?

Ok thanks for clearing things up Jon. I appreciate it. -e