EricB

well unfortunately one of mine got changed at some point. i need a matched set of 4. the ones I need are from the 280Z. Anyone, anyone? Thanks, -e

Hi all, I was disassembling 4 spare used 280z strut housings that I bought recently and found that one of the gland nuts did not match the other three. Would anyone have a spare "tall" one for sale? Here's a pic of the little one compared to the big one... Big one is 55mm wide at the top, and is 20mm tall. Little one is 51mm wide at the top, and is 14mm tall. Thanks, -e

Jon the AD struts are also same length front and rear. they sent along two small pieces of pipe (about 1.5~2" long) to act as spacers. They did not send 4. Perhaps that was a mistake? The valves at the bottom of the ADs extend beyond the bottom most part of the strut - so a spare is required otherwise they get mashed. I found an old thread where someone drilled the bottom of the strut housing with a 1/2" hole to allow for the valve to sit in there... if I put the spacers in front 280 housings, and then the AD struts, and then the gland nut, everything seems to fit perfect. but you're saying I should still section the fronts (no spacers then?) and have the rears always be longer than the fronts? am I reading you right?

Hi guys, i've been reading a variety of old posts here and on hybridz and feel pretty confident about what I am about to start on... however i do want to think out loud to everyone here (John C, JMortensen, 2ManyZs, etc) to make sure that i've dotted my i's and crossed my t's i am using advanced design struts with 280 housings. for now, i am going to use the 1.5~2" piece of pipe GC supplied to space out the front struts inside the stock housing. I may turn something nicer on the lather somewhere down the line. for the rear, we're looking at about a 4-5" difference between the AD strut and the stock strut - so there's some sectioning needed. Instead of having the rear inserts sit all the way down in the housing (I do need some kind of spacer, or they will bottom out on the valve), I was thinking of using the same 1.5~2" piece of pipe on the rears as well. I figure this will give me some flexibility down the line if I need it... I think it's better to have not sectioned them enough, than sectioned them too much, right? As far as locating exactly where the weld-on threaded coilover sleeve perch goes, I was thinking of positioning it such that the top of the coilover sleeve is flush with the underside of the gland nut. Does this sound good to everyone? -e

Z is running. 12v from battery straight to coil + did start the car I found that a connection for GW & BW was loose & causing the problem Also think that my distributor had some issues itself, shaft is loose & shows signs of having wobbled & caused uneven wear. Don't know yet if it's E12-80 is dead too Will check that next Thanks for everyone's help -e

do it yourself Piece of cake Plenty of pics in the gallery you can use as reference

Gary Jim Should I run 12v direct from battery to coil & bypass my stock wiring for now? If I burnt out my E12-80 module after running the Blaster2 coil for several years it would be weird there's something all of a sudden wrong w/ the wiring right? Gary thanks for talking to Kim B. I think I used a Msd coil because Zcargarage liked it so many years ago...

lance Do you think I happen to have 3 bad dizzys in a row & that is my only problem?

Am at work right now, not in front of car, but I can report that: Battery voltage is probably starting to get low since I've been trying to crank it for a day or so... Starter still SOUNDS healthy - not wheezy just yet... (good ol' optima) -e

ok So I've now tried 3 distributors, 2 coils, new cap+rotor+plugs, checked plug wires & I get no spark Has to be wiring right? Forget the tach what's the minimum I need to get the car started? GW & BW which used to go to ballast resistor get spliced together, E12-80 B lug goes to + post on coil, and?... Thanks

I take back what I said No spark at sparkplug 0.5 volt at + coil when key is in ON & START positions Just picked up another spare E12-80 at junkyard Going home to try it out

Carl Thanks for the reply. how do I check if the E12-80 module is indeed bad? the spare distributor I had on the shelf I actually don;t remember if i ever tested it before or if it has ever been on the car before... I guess it's possible both distributors have bad modules - wouldn;t that be my luck? i did not take voltmeter to coil - but I can certainly try that and report back -e

oh ok so he's out on vacation or something thanks

separate the vinyl part of the dash from its metal framework underneath you can keep the gauges attached to the metal framework and have everything plugged in the way it should i've been driving like this for longer than i care to comment -e

Hi all I have a June 1973 240Z with an F54 L28 & Mikuni 44 PHH carbs. It's had an E12-80 electronic distributor & MSD Blaster2 coil for 4~5 years now & has always run like a champ. On Friday evening it randomly died on me at a stop light in town. Wouldn't start up again. I pushed it to the side. Made sure it had fuel + spark + E12-80 wiring was nice and tight. After an hour of fidgeting she fired up again but with some hesitation at low revs. I managed to struggle home and parked it out in front. I just spent all afternoon on it and it still won't start! _I had new-ish NGK BP6ES R plugs - but pulled those out and swapped in brand new ones gapped to 0.85mm _New NGK blue plug wires - I tested resistance and found that they are all about 6500~7000ohm when attached to cap (factory wear limit is 30000ohm) _Cap & Rotor are basically new, but I still swapped both out to rule that out _I tried two different E12-80 distributors (mine and one that's been sitting on workbench in garage). _Distributor neither fully retarded nor fully advanced - set right down the middle. _I tried two different coils (my Blaster 2 coil & stock new 280zx coil) _I made sure the wiring was as it has been for the past years. _I pulled the wires off of the + & - of coil and made sure there was no corrosion on the blades - steel wool until they were shiny FYI My E12-80 module wiring has never looked like this: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ZXPertronix.htm _Tank has fuel & starter does crank & crank & crank but engine just won't start however. I've always attributed that to my car being a 73 and having the later tach which receives a signal from the - post, not the + post like the 70-72 cars do. Can someone with a 73 & an E12-80 spell out if they are using the above diagram or something else ? Again I've had it running like this for years w/o a hitch... What the heck? I feel like I've tried everything... Help? Thanks. -e

Hi. Has anyone successfully contacted Todd recently? I just sent a couple emails yesterday and today and both bounced back... I need some PHH carbie parts from him... Thanks, -e

the chrome strip just pops off provided someone didn't glue it down before you the felt strip is at least on my car stapled to a metal lip on the door panel tough cookie to get off, and tougher yer to cleanly replace... good luck

I might as well ask if anyone has a spare 78 280Z R200 mustache bar + transverse link + front diff mount too...

hi all, I am in need of a spare R180 diff flange as I'm about to swap a R200 into my S30. I have a 4.11 R160 in there right now & can't raid it for parts as I need the Z to still run in the meantime. Thanks

Hi all, Check this out. A friend of mine who is one of the modellers at Honda R&D in Torrance (CA) had some spare time after hours at work... Check out what he built... http://www.flickr.com/photos/2point5dillustration/ Once I get my hands on the file, I'll build bumpers, add the 432 exhaust I have, change the paint color, build the NLA factory headlight covers and have mine... Good stuff... Great attention to detail - it's all there! Pretty darn good when you consider he's working from pics found on the net and what not... -e

Speaking of eBay sellers, I would recommend Sunny Motorsports in the LA area... As I recall they are in Temple City or thereabouts... I got my 9.5J -13mm offset rears (new) from them... Matched up with some 225/50R15 A048 tires they fit PERFECT on the 240...

I've got the same thermostat switch as Dave mentioned. Probe in the radiator set for 185deg I totally agree about the relays - got those... good to go. I was just confused as to where to tie in to the switched to power... the main power lead is already coming off the battery

Dave, Both the water pump and the fan came with relays, so you're right our set-ups are probably pretty close to identical... I've got both relays wired up as per the instructions, I'm just not sure where to connect the switched to power wires on the car itself... Thanks in advance, -e

Hi all, Long time no talk... Hope everyone (and their Zs) are doing well. So let me preface the following by saying that even back in engineering school I already had a certain aversion to circuits and wiring. Things haven't improved since... :stupid: So I need a hand, please. I am looking for a good switched to power source to run a couple accessories. I'm guessing that where I had them before wasn't the best place as I had some recent electrical problems, which made me miss JCCS07 unfortunately. I want to do it right this time. 1 CSR water pump draws 5.8amps and is fused with a 15A fuse 1 PermaCool 14" fan draws 9.5amps and is fused with a 30A fuse I'm thinking about wiring the water pump in parallel off of the 73 electric fuel pump, right next to the fuse box. Here's where I get confused: _ If the power that supplies the 73 electric fuel pump fuse is fused at 20A, and I add a new circuit in parallel which pulls almost 6A, do I either have one larger fuse supplying both circuits, or do I have each circuit have its own fuse. And then should I go a size up on the wiring upstream of where these circuits split from one another to handle the extra draw? How far upstream do I go? just to the fusebox or further? If this is an ok place to do this, or is there a better place? _ For the fan, I was thinking of wiring it direct to the battery so that the fan keeps spinning while the engine is hot even if I switch the ignition off. That's the way I used to have it, is that a bad idea? If I don't, then I need to find another switched to power, can I go in parallel (again) to what's above? Can I get a little help on this? Thanks in advance guys... -e PS: I also have an E12-80 dist & an internally regulated newer distributor, I know the 73 has some wiring/relays which don't apply anymore since I took out some of the stock electrical components. What can I safely remove/simplify? Or is this a better question for a new thread?

Nobody, eh? -e