EricB

ooohh i see.... fyi i checked prices on some of my favorite items between courtesy in tx and www.nismoparts.com which is a nissan dealership in seattle and everything except for the oil cooler that comes with the diff cooling kit was cheaper in seattle. thanks for the info nonetheless! -e

Given the choice, but not necessarily assuming that $$s are equal between the two, I'd like to get some opinions between the Nissan Comp LSD and a Quaife unit. Preferences, gripes, praise, complaints, etc Thanks, -e

Courtesy Nissan ... in Alhambra, CA? That's the one I know by that name. Somehow I think yours is a different one.... confirm? Thanks, -e

I took out my 3.36 over the weekend to temporarily put in a 4.11 while I finish rebuilding my 4.40. Obviously the speedo which was suprisingly accurate is no way off. I know I can get an adapter gear to screw on the tranny where the speedo cable plugs in. But where do I get this? Don't have Motorsport's catalog in front of me but do they have that too??? -e

Thanks very much... I got it - makes sense to me now... back to the hammer... -e

clarification: the lock pin we are talking about needs to be pulled down - towards the ground - to come out of what I called the double ended threaded bolt with 17mm nuts. Right? it doesn't look like it can be hammered straight up as I don't think the hole it goes into goes all the way through that part of the rear hub... So up or down? Gracìas, -e

All bolts come out fine EXCEPT one. On rear lower control arm, at the rear hub end (not the diff end - makes sense?) the control arm is helding in by a large bolt threaded at both ends (has 17mm nuts on either end, see what I am talking about?) - this large double ended bolt is held in place in the rear hub from sliding around by a smaller (vertically positioned) bolt with a 12mm nut on it. It is this small securing bolt that I can't get off. Sure the 12mm nut comes off easily enough but then what? I've sprayed liquid wrench in there, lightly tapped it, tapped the larger 17mm double ended bolt from side to side to try to dislodge the smaller one... all for nothing... advice? hints? tips? I want to remove the rear lower control arms so that I can swap out the bushings on them.... thanks a mil, -e

John, Can I thank you too???? Those are exactly the questions I was just going to pose to the club. And you've answered them all. Cool! -e

Hi... I'm one of the new guys.... Here's my story.... I had (and dearly miss) a 1990 Honda CR-X that I built to SCCA IT specs, but never campaigned it - it was my "canyons" car. Had to put it up for sale when tuition came due some time ago because of a **** up w/ financial aid. I currently own an ex-Regional Champ SCCA GT-4 1973 Honda Civic that I've restored outside & in to showroom beauty. Its lovely little engine I also rebuilt keeping the Dellorto's and motorcycle pistons (12:1 CR) firmly in place. I just got rid of the salvaged early '73 240Z I posted about last week. I daily drive my late 73 240Z since last summer. Every day I still find myself wondering how I managed to finally own a 240..... puts a smile on my face every time. 27yo. French/Swiss/American citizenship. Speak French/ English/ German/ Japanese/ Spanish/ & mere morsels of Italian. 2 Bachelors & 1 minor from UCDavis. Currently studying Transportation Design at ArtCenter College of Design (have completed 5/8) and am toying with idea of transferring to CCS in Detroit (the other big US school). SCCA member since 97. NASA member / scrutineer / timing & scoring worker. All-around (single) car guy currently residing in Pasadena, CA. -e

Hmm... cool. Well either way it looks like the set will be making its way up there to NorCal at some point. Do either of you have advice on tires in the larger width I am going to want to use with the widened steels? I imagine some retailer must still have AVS Int's in those sizes somewhere... but finding them is going to be difficult. I've only also used AND liked Yok/Advan A032R's. I've had Pirelli P700z (screeching loud and not that sticky), DunlopSP8000 (weak construction) and liked neither.... Any recommendations on something I haven't yet but should try? Toyo T1s? Kumhos? etc -e

Hi Dale, I can't imagine it would be too much via UPS. I've ordered tires from Discount & TireRack before and they've always come via UPS... I don't remember that they've ever been that expensive to ship...... Obviously I am looking to get some $$s back to help pay for the new set, especially considering they are nearly new (I'd be up for measuring the treads at all four corners if you wanted me to...). But I do not have a fixed # in the back of my head.... I'll have to check to see how much they cost... I think it was $65 to 75 each???? Not sure though. How soon would you need them? -e

Hey Alan, If you are on this website, well I just randomly got these pics fwd'ed to me from a friend of your FP autox Z and... wow that's one bad arse lookin car... Hey who needs B-pillars anyways.... Can I get a ride? Provided you even have a pass seat left? -e

Hi, I've decided I am going to take my steelies to Stockton Wheel in Anaheim (or is it Orange?) and have them widened to 14x8 F and 14x9 R since the one and only set of aftermarket rims I have always wanted for my Z slipped through my fingers for a measly $10 last week on EBAY [i hate EBAY!!!! ] Heck I've even been to Japan on multiple occasions looking for just that... 15x8 and 15x10 RS Watanabes in black w/polished lip..... That means that the tires I have on there (205/60R14 AVS Intermediates) are going to be too narrow. I purchased them end of last summer (july/august & have receipts) from America's Tires (DiscountTireDirect). I drive an average of 10miles roundtrip to and from work 3 times a week - with the occasional 20mile drive out to Santa Monica/Venice here in SoCal. In other words they are nearly new and I am looking to upgrade to something like 225 width fronts, and 235/245 rears of the same brand. I love those AVS-Int's and it's a shame they are getting discontinued. Anyways I am in Pasadena, CA (Los Angeles) if someone's interested at all??? -e

I have a salvaged 2/73 240Z I am giving away for free in the For Sale section if anybody wants to trade for the parts I need. -e

If you (or someone else) wants to come see the car then we could arrange it for either Fri/Sat/Sun or Mon. Those are the only days of the week I have free time. The car is getting donated soon and they already know it isn't running. If some parts off of it (as long as it is still a roller) can make someone happy - great! If someone wants to take the whole shell - fine by me too. -e

Re: bumpers It's wearing later 73 bumpers as the pics indicate. Front and Rear bumpers are not perfect - they are dinged. Nothing that can't be fixed and re-chromed of course. Has all four bumper over riders. Re: doorpanels On both sides, the plastic strip that is supposed to be chrome-like is a bit faded - I think one of them is all blue (ie missing all of its foil wrapping or whatever that was originally). Also driver side has a small tear at leftmost part of panel right where above chrome trim ends (make sense? ie. 2" below the top leftmost part of driver side door panel) Door handles and window cranks look good. Re: Heater control panel The chrome/plastic trim surround has a missing piece in it. Ie bottom portion right where an aftermarket radio's faceplate would cover it. Otherwise it works good - toggles move smoothy, etc. Bulbs still work and all that. -e

Hey Pete, What do you want for yours?? FYI all there's also one on EBAY right now that I am looking at. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601947487&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1013473406&indexURL=0&rd=1 -e

Here are the pics I had promised both of the free salvaged car in question and of the seats. http://b16a.honda-perf.org/salvagedZ1.jpg http://b16a.honda-perf.org/salvagedZ2.jpg http://b16a.honda-perf.org/salvagedZseat1.jpg http://b16a.honda-perf.org/salvagedZseat2.jpg A little bit more details about the car. I bought it 2 weeks ago and removed dash, cylinder head, carburetors. I turned in DMV title right away and will not get a new one in the mail for another week or so - this means the car has been re-registered to March 2003! BTW it is a February 73 car. I am trying to wrestle off the header that's still holding tight to the exhaust, and I am toying with the idea of taking the windshield as well as passenger side rear tail light. It has no interior plastic panels save for good (not great) condition door panels. It has aftermarket carpet kit covering the center tunnel. I've looked underneath and the OEM diamond pattern vinyl looks perfect (as does the one covering the rear shock towers). It wears aftermarket wheels and has yet another brand of aftermarket wheel as a spare tire in the trunk. The cylinder head I removed had no mechanical fuel pump attached so I assume there's an electric one in or near the gas tank. From the 10 miles i drove it I can vouch for the shocks being totally gone. The brakes probably too are in need of repair. I was told the car was hit passenger side rear wheel area but except for some cracked bondo by gas cap I see no evidence of major repair surgery. The car has been very thoroughly resprayed to red inside and out (only in the wheel wells and places where bolts have rubbed off the paint can you tell the car's previous colour.) Oh yeah one more thing - the only key I have for it fits the ignition but not doors/hatch/glove box. I have called a vehicle donation company and been told it will take 4/5 days for a tow company to contact me. I can always tell them I've changed my mind if someone wants to pick it up before then. Again it is in Pasadena, CA (which is 15min outside of downtown LA, and 17 miles from Whittier <- some one had asked...) -e

hey guys i got your msgs... i just took a couple outside pics of the car before the sun set, and a couple of the seats in question too.... i'll post them online first thing tomorrow AM, ok? to answer the question about weight... they definitely weight more than OEM seats.... so (adjust if necessary I am not quite sure myself) if OEM seats weigh like 20lbs-ish then i guess the recaros to be around 30lbs.... if I can get someone else to weigh and guess at their weight (probably more accurate than me) then I will do so. -e

Thanks to the both of you. I am staring at both right now and differences do seem really slight - if at all..... -e

Goo dmorning all, I am getting rid of my salvaged parts car. It's free to whomever wants it. I've removed dash, OEM seats (but replaced those with old Recaros), E88 cylinder head and round top SUs..... There still is a header on there but it looks to be rusted onto exhaust so it's being difficult to remove. Anyways car was originally yellow/greenish color and was thoroughly resprayed to red (you can only tell in wheelwells the original color of the car). It has little to no interior trim. The previous owner told me it was salvaged when it was hit in pass rear 3/4 - except for cracking bondo around the filler cap I have yet to see how bad the damage is if at all. I drove up until a week ago when I pulled the carbs. If you are interested I need to know ASAP (like today). Car is in Pasadena, CA. -e email or call me at 626 568 1076

I was surfing some fellow 240Z owner's rides on the net, and found a couple that mentionned explicitly that they were using N36 manifolds with their original SUs. What's the big deal? Do these flow better? Thanks and Good Morning too BTW, -e

Awesome Royce.. That's exactly what I was after. Much appreciated. -e