EricB

Pilot Screw is #65 in attached diagram. With me still unpacking from a recent move I can't seem to located my PHH manual anywhere.... Can someone remind me what the base setting on a 44PHH is for the pilot screw is? 2 turns out from seated? 2 1/4 turns? And turning it CW makes it leaner & CCW makes it richer, or vice versa? Someone remind me please... Thanks, -e

245 width tires too narrow for 9.5" rims??? That's crazy.... We stretched 225 50 R15 onto my 9" wide Wats with no problems... -e

Can anyone with a ZX manual please see if their FSM shows any specific tests to perform on the E12-80 ignition module to check its proper functioning? A basic resistance test with values not to exceed? Something along those lines? Thanks. -e

Anyone happen to know if WA Dave's on vacation? I've tried emailing and PM with so far no luck. Just curious to know if he's on vacation or something... Am having a small problem with his headlight harness & needed his troubleshooting help... -e

The flat black 240 is Dave's Z. It was in attendance at Monterey Historics. He's got several custom exhausts. The one pictured is straight out the center of the back of the car - no resonators or mufflers on that specific exhaust... Sounds absolutely wicked at full song.... shades of a 60s italian V12s in certain parts of the rpm range - I swear... -e

I used an 81ZX alternator on my 73 240... Puts out 60amp I think... BTW I had to wire in a diode inline such that when I turned the key off the engine also turned off... I'm assuming I would keep this mod in place if I were to switch to the 105 Amp ZSpecialties unit... right? -e

Here's another link with pics http://members.aol.com/mikeldrew/monterey2005.jpg -e

geez... how much did a new distributor set you back? - Mine's an '81 ZX unit. The same thing started happening to me right as I pulled in to Monterey Historics on Saturday morning. Did it a couple more times on the way back home to Los Angeles on Sunday... great.... I did a search for distributor rebuild and didn't find anything. Does anyone have any added tips on rebuilding them? To me the "buzzing" sounds like it would be coming from a bearing that's all out of lube... My $0.02 -e

Absolutely... we had a great time... Wouldn't miss it. -e

If you're in or near Los Angeles... try these guys: SoCal Wheel Alteration (called ALTA for short) On the corner of Valley Blvd and Temple City Blvd in Temple City... They get a container full about once a month First come first served You may not get lucky your first time around but it's worth going back. I got 15x8.5 & 15x9 Wats from them. Been very happy since. -e

I've got a 14" diameter PermaCool puller fan mounted slightly off center of the radiator such that the fan motor doesn't interfere with where the stock water pump used to be. 3.75" thickness 2950cfm and 9.5Amp draw If, when getting ready to leave for Monterey Historics, I can take and post a pic tomorrow morning I will do so. Otherwise I'll get someone to take a pic over the weekend and post it on Sunday evening. -e

I can't comment on the cooling side of things because all of a sudden it's been like 15-20degrees cooler than in the previous weeks... Barely hitting the 80s right now so I am not having any cooling issues whatsoever... Like you pointed out though, now that my crank only spins the alternator and nothing else the engine certainly feels a bit more peppy... hahaha... very enjoyable so far. As a safeguard I've put that fuel pump and water pump on the same switched-to power circuit figuring that if one blows a fuse that will stop the car before any damage can be done.... What do you all think? -e

Well so far so good... Install went off without a hitch. Here's some pics of the pump. I swapped out the stock 35" alternator belt and now have a 28.5" belt which does the trick just fine. I already have a newer alternator from an 81 ZX. So far so good as far as that's concerned. Morning was cold and grey for once here in L.A. so I can't report back yet on any kind of temperature savings... -e

Someone at work recomended it - figure we'd give it a try for once... Our 2.8L engines will come in handy in we need to pass any slow moving vehicles... I'm not too worried. -e

No problem - will do that this weekend. Gotta go out and find a shorter alternator belt too. -e

For those that don't already know about it, here's a map. Dave and I will be leaving LA around 10am or so Friday morning. -e

Got it in the mail yesterday. Pretty impressed so far. The actual pump is a modular unit that bolts into a billet adapter plate in the shape of our water pump opening in the front cover. The pump can be specified in several differenct color finishes - I chose black. It comes with requisite new bolts and a note to install a 15amp fuse inline with the pump. 5500 hour service life & knowing the Z gets driven on average 3-4hrs a day over the course of the week means that it's going to be on there for some time to come... I'll install it this weekend and report back. -e

The plot thickens... The threaded rod on the clutch master cylinder I removed from my car measured 4" from the flange that bolts to the firewall to the tip of the rod. The no name Japanese replacement I got at the local auto parts store had a rod that measured 3"3/8 - way too short. The Nabco/Tokico unit that MSA sells is 3" 3/4 long THat's what I currently have in the car. However the only way to make it work I found was to fab up a longer slave cylinder rod & it isn't perfect. I've got to kill the engine to put the car in reverse. I've got one on order from the local Nissan dealership at $92... It's due in tomorrow - we'll see what size that one is. -e

This was emailed to me, thought I'd fwd to you all: GroupZ is again hosting our HOT AUGUST NIGHT on Wednesday August 10, 2005 at Ricky & Ronnies Drive-In in Torrance; 1301 West Sepulveda Blvd at Normandie Avenue, just one half mile west of the 110 freeway at the Sepulveda Blvd exit. (310)326-1213. (map attached) http://www.rickyandronnies.com If you have never been to Ricky & Ronnies now is your opportunity to check it out. Awards given to the top 5 "Peoples Choice" cars. Door prizes. Private gated parking for the event. Private club house for the event. Great location, great food, great people and of course... GREAT CARS! Don't miss the biggest and best this summer. Z 'YA THERE

I already have an electric fan... When we're actually moving the Z behaves fine even on the hottest days... LA being what it is though I find myself often stopped in bumper to bumper traffic - particularly going home in the evening when driving through the San Fernando valley - that's where with the engine turning at only 700rpm in idle and the outside temps hovering over the 100deg mark that i start to see my temp gauge act up... -e

Nice... only draws 5.8Amps & is rated at 5500hours between rebuilds. I'm pretty impressed by the specs and have one on order & due to be delivered soon. I got it because I drive the Z every day 120miles roundtrip on my commute to and from work and find myself often at a crawl in L.A. traffic where I do see coolant temps climb a bit at times since our cooling is after all engine rpm dependent... Especially with the past couple weeks where the San Fernando valley has been sweltering in 100-108degree heat... I'll report back with results once it's in and in use. Maybe someone on here has already gotten one installed on their car? -e

I'll be there - I think this will be my 10th year attending... gotta check... My friend Dave with the flat black Z will be there too. We're both caravan'ing up from LA although we don't yet know when we're going to drive up be it Friday morning/midday or EARLY saturday morning. We'll be taking the 101 all the way up into Salinas. -e

hmmm The thing is the one I got from MSA is a Nabco/Tokico which is the OE supplier of our stock unit... so it's made by the same company with the same application... the fact i bought it at somewhere else than the dealer ought not be an issue - go figure. Rather than messing with the clutch master cylinder rod any further I checked P/Ns and 73 240Z through 81 280ZX have the same slave cylinder (I thought maybe there were different length salve cylinder rods). I thought I might be able to use a longer slave cylinder rod to fix my problem... Since they are all the same length here's what I did this AM: Got a 5/16" diameter 5" lag bolt from home depot ($0.40), cut the threads and head off, ground the ends down so they are hemi-spherical. put a groove in it for the rubber seal to grab onto and presto a new smooth slave cylinder rod that's 1/4"~3/8" longer than the factory one and within 0.1mm of the stock one's diameter. I figure I now have room to adjust in at the clutch pedal as much as I need to to get it perfect. We'll see tonight when I get off work I guess. -e