EricB

Jim I got your request... Will try to find good pics of what you desire and scan them in -e

To those of you who don't have these get those three NosHero issues. They're fantastic for Z car buffs. I can also go through my healthy collection and call out some other cool issue # to be on the lookout for if anyone is interested. -e

This weekend! ArtCenter Classic car show.... Check it out. A word of advice though... As an ex-student I feel there's no reason they ought to be charging an admission IMO... Park off campus on Lida St and walk in... Go into the building to visit your nephew "little jimmy" in the 7th term room... (hint hint nudge nudge wink wink) and then walk to the back sculpture garden to see the cars... My $0.02 -e

Here you go. Pics taken by a friend of mine http://gallery.kasperowicz.com/2005Historics -e

Hi all, I got a new clutch master cylinder for my 73 at the local import auto parts store this morning. Just pulled the old Tokico one out and the first thing I noticed is that the threaded rod on the one I bought this morning is somewhat shorter. Should I be worried. My original Tokico clutch master cylinder rod measures 4" from the flange that mounts to the firewall to the end of the rod. The one I purchased this morning is of course also a 5/8 diameter one, also made in Japan although a different brand (Mijuya or something like that) but the threaded rod only measures 3" 3/8. The bracket that screws on the end of the threaded rod and connects to the pedal was at its outward most position on my Tokico. With this new one I've got 5/8" less pedal stroke... Will it still be sufficient? Was I sold the wrong clutch master cylinder even though the box states its for S30 and HS30? Advice? Thanks, -e

Thanks guys. -e

I already have a rear bar, it's a NOS Nismo one... I wanted to use it on my 73. Guess I'll just fab up a bracket and pour some urethane bushings to fit. -e

So I just saw that the Nismo rear sway bar installation kits for cars that didn't originally come with them are now No Longer Available. While my 73 didn't come with a rear bar from the factory there are what appears to be a place for rear swaybar brackets to mount to on the underside of my car. Anyone found a work-around? Thanks, -e

Great pics Alan. I hope Speed TV won't delay too long in getting us their one hour tv special covering the event.... I love the name of the class "street fighters"... What other cars were in this class? Obviously I can't imagine that the Reid Primera or the old GrpC/IMSA car parked either side of Big Sam were in this same class... so whom else? -e

FYI I first swapped ignition switches and that didn't solve anything. Then swapped out the starter for the replacement one MSA overnighted, and at the same time really went through all the electrical connections and so far so good. Maybe I just got unlucky and got the one bad rebuilt starter from Hitachi. Could be I guess... -e

Go Saturday because at 4pm-ish when things start to wind down you can take a quick drive to Carmel, park by the clubhouse at the end of the 18th green of the Pebble Beach golf course and see all the multi-million day cars being setup for the following day's Concours D'Elegance without have to pay a dime for it. Well worth it even if you end up buying an overpriced cocktail or two while taking in the gorgeous view. -e

That's a good idea Stephen... I'll check that too. I have a spare NOS ignition switch which I could try... Thanks for the tip. -e

Manufacturing defects do happen as stringent as QA is in F1. Maybe what happened to the Michelin tires could be traced to something like that. It's interesting to note that according to the Speed TV commentators the second emergency set of tires Michelin had made for Sunday's race also apparently exhibited the same problem. I don't understand why faced with the possibility that 14 cars would not participate in the race Max and Bernie couldn't for once make an exception and institute some kind of "coned" chicane" before T13 to reduce speed through it as the 7 Michelin teams suggested. Making an exception to the FIA rules would surely have been less of a public relations snafu than to see 14 cars decide not to race making a mockery out of the whole event itself. I for one am completely on the side of the 7 Michelin teams. What if they had raced and god forbid someone HAD had a bad accident, one even worse than RSchumacher's from last year.... I'm sure people would be hoping today that those teams would have chosen not to race as they did... What amazes me though with the exception of the VIPs in the boxes with access to TV coverage and such it seems that no announcement was made to the fans in attendance as to why 14 cars peeled off the warmup lap as they did. No wonder they were so stunned and then pissed.... but still you figure someone could have made some kind of announcement??? I'm sure that had such an announcement been made people would have still been upset but at least they wouldn't have started throwing things at the 6 cars that WERE on the track and travelling in excess of 200mph... Can you imagine if one of those full water bottles of aluminum cans happened to hit Schumi in the head as he drove down the front straight??? Totally ridiculous and irresponsible on behalf of the fans in attendance. I wouldn't be surprised if this kills the USGP for next year and several years into the future. -e

The battery I put in last week when I replaced my starter was a brand new Optima red-top so yes those terminals were clean. I did brush off the battery cables... maybe not enough though? I'll give them a good once over tomorrow with a metal bristle brush and see if that helps. Just in case I did get the bad apple in the bunch MSA is sending me a replacement 78-83 starter free of charge in exchance for this supposed defective one. Either way I'll figure it out. Thanks for the post Dogma420 -e

So the new starter worked all week. And then today at lunch almost exactly 7days to the hour - the new gear reduction starter failed on me again. I turned the key , heard a click, and then no fuel pump, no horn, no radio, no power to anything.... again checked the fuses and again they all checked out. Looked at the connections under the hood with the key in the off position and when everything checked out i turned the key to the acc position and once again was rewarded with fuel pump, horn, etc. If I turned they to start the car then nothing. If however I push-started the car then it runs fine. was I just unlucky with the remanufactured starter MSA sent me? i'm on hold with them right now... something else (electrical) going on? -e '73 240Z

Ben, He is... he just happens to move around some thus the current FL location... -e

Holy gear reduction batman! Wow.... The 78-83 gear reduction starter coupled with a brand new Optima battery... that's something else.... Night and day difference with the tired 73 oem starter... -e

I got to borrow a company car to get home tonight while the Z spends the night in the parking lot waiting for the overnight delivery of a new starter from MSA tomorrow morning... Well during the commute I got to thinking that maybe I've got an added problem I failed to consider... Thought I'd run it by you guys and gals for someone's two cents... On Friday afternoon after I filled up with gas before driving home it did once fail to start (only heard the solenoid "click"). After I checked over everything and tried again it started right up. I drove the car this morning & it worked fine. At lunch I got in turned the key, heard the fuel pump come on as usual and then went to crank it and got the solenoid click but nothing else. Turned the key to the off position and then tried cranking again... this time I heard a different kind of click (like a fuse popping) and no fuel pump or crank. I pulled back the center console and checked that fuse box. Pulled all the fuses and inspected them one by one. They all appeared fine so I put them back in. I also checked the inline fuse & the wiring that goes to the Facet fuel pump hanging out under the car next to the fuel tank. They were fine too. I looked under the hood and found everything still securely attached & where it ought to be. ??? Along with my tools & FSM, I am bringing a spare set of fuses and a known good battery to work tomorrow in case I need them too... But is there another fuse elsewhere I might have missed? Something like a main 50A fuse like on a more modern car? Where the engine wire harness meets up with the interior wire harness under the passenger side dash & above the kick panel, are all those brass-colored "boxes" all relays? Could it be one of those went out too coincidentally??? I could have sworn that the clicking sound when I tried turning the key came from there rather than from under the hood (ie starter solenoid). Thoughts? Ideas? Comments? Thanks as always, -e

The same's litterally just happened to me... I'd been suspecting the starter solenoid was on its way out for some time on my car... Of course it had to happen at work (60 miles from home). Thankfully for $75 and change + $16 next day air I've got a new Hitachi starter coming up from MSA... I may just change the battery at the same time as well... We'll see. -e

More of an FYI than anything else... As we add this kind of info it can only help others as they figure out basic jet sizes and such based on their application. My Engine: Triple Mikuni 44PHH bought new from Mikuni USA (as such fitted with all stock jet/venturi sizes) fresh E88 head fitted with larger N42 valves & stock cam fresh F54 L28 stock bottom end I had noticed a little bit of detonation in 3rd and 4th at WOT I swapped out the main jets (150) to the next size up (155) and that seems to have cured the problem. Incidentally my 120mile roundtrip commute is a good time to figure out average MPG too: With a 4.11 rear end and the stock 4spd I run between 4000 and 4500rpm on the freeway. I know that 4000rpm in 4th = 69mph. With the 150 main jets I was getting a consistent 20mpg on the freeway With the 155 main jets that's dropped to 18.5mpg Hope this is of some help to someone. -e

Courtesy of Alan http://home.att.ne.jp/sky/FairladyZ/index.htm

Phred I've got to admit I am pretty impressed with the level of detail you're going into. I forget did you say you were retired from the SCCA scene or do you still build these motors on a regular basis? -e

Thank you Phred -e

Ok no problem will do so tonight or tomorrow. ... Never mind I found a pic someone snapped of my interior over two years ago... it's a little cleaner now... those yellow wires were left over from some half-arse installation the PO had done... Anyways notice the horn button. Same shape as our 70-3 "Datsun" ones but with a "Z" instead like the later US ones and a horn logo as well... Oh and also visible is my only genuine KPGC10 part... the 5spd shift knob. New & only 6500yen means I couldn't resist. -e