EricB

Ok then about newer fittings from the junkyard? -e

Hey 73Skyline, Where are you located? I wonder if the Skyline you bought is the one I tried to buy several years ago. The owner (an AE86 Toyota guy) knew what it was when he found it at a local junkyard & bought it but then let it rot in the weeds in his backyard in San Bernardino 'cause he didn't care to do anything to it. It also had no side glass and a blown out rear window. He refused both $XXXX cash offers I brought as he said he didn't want to sell... weak... The car was imported in the late 70s and raced locally in SoCal with "Curry House" sponsorship all over it and as I recall had blue and yellow striping down the sides. Built L28Turbo with lots of nice Nismo parts on it... Is that the same car? I've got the VIN written down somewhere... If so, I'm bummed I am not it's present owner but am happy to hear you're on the Board and that the car will one day run again. My best advice to you is to find someone with the glass out of their car and beg/pay them to use it as template to mold some lexan over them... Otherwise you'll never get a decent fit and you'll end up riveting your Lexan in place. Remember also that if you go that route Lexan scratches easily so you may over time have more and more trouble looking out the sides of your car. I also remember reading in the CA Vehicle Code that it's actually not allowed for street-driven cars. The reason being in case of an accident you can't punch it out and escape that way if needs be... -e

You could make your own with a double flare tool (easy to get a basic one even at a place like Harbor Freight in Pasadena (Rosemead and Foothill). All you would need is the fittings at either end which I assume you could re-use from the line you're trying to replace. -e

The only problem with Marina Del Rey is its by the water of course.. And bar none all the "beach" SoCal Zs I've seen have all had tons of rust from the spray... Of course I haven't seen the car you're into but, well, be warned... -e

Kats Do you ship your car to the USA every year for the national convention? How expensive is that and how long does it take... Do you need special paperwork to be able to drive your car in the USA? I wonder how difficult it would be to import my Z to Japan and drive it there if my wife and I ever moved there for work... -e

Thanks for the details. We'll see... The wife and I are in the midst of some home improvement projects at the new house and that may keep us busy up to and including that weekend. -e

What event is at the end of this month? CART?

1GENZED I'm tempted to say those are Hayashi's (that's the brand, not the specific model name) -e

Very cool - thanks for the many many links -e

Cool pics Gavin. Thanks. -e

I understand what you mean about annealing and I'd be willing to try on a header collector gasket... but can you imagine doing that on a headgasket??? I kept searching online and ended up on some Cobra forum where it was pretty much fifty fifty... one half said they'd had them on for 25K miles w/o any problems while the other said they found leaks in 28 of 32 places (this was for header gaskets). I don't know what their headgaskets cost but I did see that an off the shelf collector gasket to fit say an MSA 6-2-1 was somewhere in the $12-15 range. -e

Found 'em on the net: http://www.scegaskets.com/products/procoppex.html And a quick look at their site shows they even make headgaskets for our L6's in six thicknesses ranging from 0.8mm to 2.36mm for an 87.3mm gasket bore size. -e

I was down at a couple local muffler shops at lunch looking for some replacement gaskets for the header collector to exhaust joint and someone showed me an all copper gasket. Thinner by far than your average paper+metal ring gasket and entirely made out of copper and featuring a circular groove pressed into it around the exhaust opening. I'd never seen anything like it before... Have I been trapped in a dark cave unaware of this for years? Is it a new thing? Does it even seal well? Curious to hear what you all have to say. -e

There's a lot of construction around Magic Mtn which you could avoid by taking the 138 from the top of the grapevine (Gorman) towards Lancaster/Palmdale and then come down the 14 or beyond. Alternatively from Frazier Park you could go west through Lockwood Valley Rd to the 33 towards Ojai to the 150 to Santa Paula and then on to Moorpark and from there either to the 118 or the 101.... a mouthful and a beautiful drive but definitely a roundabout way for you... If you want to avoid even more I5 what about the 58 from Bakersfield to the 395 to the 15 into LA from the North/East which is a straighter shot to Orange anyway... -e

Todd confirmed that they were what we inferred... after the fuel feed line goes to each carb, the return line is indeed supposed to be routed to each carb via these "cooling bodies"... the flowing fuel is mean to cool down the carb body... But again like the rest of us Todd has never seen anyone use this function of the Mikuni carb... That in itself almost makes me want to try it... then again I bet I'd be hard pressed to tell the difference... I wonder if Alan has seen anyone use this function back in Japan? Considering none of us have ever tried it, who knows maybe it's a night and day difference on a hot day? -e

I've had mine plugged up too for the past couple years I've had them on the car... this time though I just got to thinking about what they were there for... I'll get Todd's $0.02 for the heck of it... -e

Marty Do not re-use the throwout bearing COLLAR from the 4spd - it's 5mm (approx 1/4" too long) - you'll need to use the throwout bearing COLLAR from the 5spd for proper clutch engagement... I know... The bearings themselves though are identical from what I can tell so no worries if you already bought a new one... you can get it pressed onto the 5spd collar. -e

I've searche all over the prior postings and while I can many mentions of the carbs I don't think this particular issue has been addressed... If I missed a post and you have the link handy I'll take that rather than starting a whole new thread. My set of 44 PHH came with part #85 fitted to all three carbs - have never used them - just fitted them with rubber plugs and left it at that. With the carbs temporarily out of the car they got me thinking... From the description it's there to cool the fuel reservoir... But has anyone used this function? What did they cool the fuel with? The radiator COOLANT isn't THAT cold once at normal operating temp! ... Separate circuit of mystery XXX fluid with separate pump? If I remove them altogether then I am forced to re-adjust my Pump Rod (#60) to the new shorter length, right? What do you all think? -e

Junkyard junkyard junkyard... Can't beat 'em at $75-150 depending on where you go and availability. Of course you can't easily tell their condition. On the other hand you might get real lucky and pull what turns out to be a dog leg "racing" tranny - it still happens occasionally. Happened to a friend of mine a couple months ago... lucky b&$#ard... Full rebuild I've been quoted by some reputable folks several on here have already used is in the $650 neighborhood + shipping. But then again... Once you've gone through it there's no reason it shouldn't last a LONG time... Consider it an investment. Tips? Victor L can do the job in no time flat with access to a vehicle lift. If you're like the rest of us I HIGHLY recommend a tranny jack - got mine off eBay for $50 and what a time saver. Other than replacing the obvious like clutch/throwout bearing/etc while you're down there you're right - it's a direct swap. Loc-tite on the driveshaft bolts... Polyurethane mounts for the tranny while you're at it? etc... basics... Have fun, -e

Ooooooooooohhhhh... wow. Ok. Never figured it was anything like that. Thanks Alan as always... -e

For our Japan experts, be they Kats or Alan or whomever: Why/How does the number '44' in your date stamps = 1969? Similarly why is it when you look at Used Car Classifieds in Japan does it give a similar number in place of what would be the year of the car? For example on the Victory 50 website there's an ad for a 1972 (昭和47年) GC10 4Dr. If 44 = 1969 then it makes sense that 47 = 1972 but what does that number refer to? Does it mean simply that the car is from the 47th year of Japan's total automobile production run, which would put their first car as being produced in 1925 which w/o researching sounds reasonable... Is that it? -e

(For the cast one, everything seemed to be a PITA...) I do remember pulling the original pan out was a lot easier than putting the cast one back in so you might be a-ok Mark -e

Pete I installed one and trust me you're much better off doing this with the engine out of the car entirely... You have to lift the engine off the mounts to get the pan even close to going on, but then you'll run into another issue because the position of the opening in the baffle plate for the oil pickup is such that when you go to put the pan in position you will hit the tranny bellhousing... big headache... lift engine and drop tranny or just pull engine altogether and do it on an engine stand... MUCH easier. -e

The Peugeot probably has a different bolt pattern than 4x114.3, probably has 4x100 or whatever... that's what Alan was referring to I think -e