EricB

Anyone who's done a full resto on their interior and in the process removed the pedals might have the answer i'm looking for... the throttle linkage mechanism goes through the firewall and is connected to the gas pedal with the usual ball/cup type of fitting... does anyone know if that ball at the top of the gas pedal arm is welded on? pressed on? threaded on? thanks, -e

Alan, Was Nissan actually the manufacturer of the twin pipe exhaust? I ask because I recently found an exact match of it and now have it on the Z where it looks right at home... Mine though is not ex-Nissan it is actually a NLA exhaust from Trust from years ago... Just curious, not that it matters as I love it just the same. Also what's a passing light? Just a shortcut for turning the lights on to indicate the old "please get out of my way"? I can't imagine that passing light would refer to turn signals... Also curious about that too. -e

While we're on the topic of racks, does $215 sound like a reasonable price for a rebuilt/remanufactured steering rack for a 240z? they want a $50 core charge and don't include tie rod ends... I've looked around on the net this afternoon and so far that's the best (only) one... Others? -e

Ok so I changed the oil, changed the oil filter, got a new Nissan oil pressure sending unit, and... pretty much the same thing as before... I get a normal oil pressure reading (needle between the "I" and the "L") when driving around (where the shifts happen at 3500rpm or less), but when I give it some go on the freeway onramp or accelerate from 4000rpm in fifth on the freeway then that's where again the oil pressure gauge drops to "O" or more... When I did the engine swap 3000miles ago I disassembled the L28 oil pump, cleaned it, fitted the stiffer Nissan Comp oil pump springs... So what do you think? New oil pump regardless or something else? -e

'81 F54 L28 rebuilt 3000miles ago with new bearings/rings Also has MSA cast Al oil pan with 7qt capacity L28 oil pump fitted with stiffer comp springs Changed the oil friday morning before I set out on my 1200mile weekend up to Monterey, then San Francisco, then ..., etc returning back to LA last night On the drive up no problems of course Last night somewhere in the middle of the valley on the I5 cruising at a steady 4000rpm in fifth (roughly 80-90mph) i notice that my factory oil press gauge which reads usually somewhere between 45-55psi (ie the needle over the "L" of OIL) is actually hovering over the "O" so I am guessing that puts it at a pressure of roughly 25-30psi I pulled over at the first gas station, let it sit, checked the oil, checked the oil again... still nice and clear and still at full level... checked all over the engine saw nothing wrong gingerly got back on the road.... the oil pressure seemed to be better just coming out of the gas station and getting on the freeway, but once cruising again it settled back to the low reading i observed earlier... i also noticed that if i gently accelerated from 4000rpm in fifth gear if the oil press needle did anything at all it would slightly drop further, not increase... wtf??? sweated bullets up & over the grapevine but got home a-ok am changing the oil & filter again this am, will go around the block again and do some other testing of the sort... but i may just pull the engine this weekend and go look inside... what do you all think? -e

Thanks Keith I actually also just found a place down the street in North Hoolywood... racetep? will call em monday morning.... -e

Hi all, Last night while popping off the three adjustable length rods that connect each carb to the throttle arm I broke one... doh.... one plastic end socket must have been so old and tired that it just broke right at its base... see pic Anyone recommend a source where i can get a new set of 3? Thanks, -e

I was just talking to someone about that... you know it wouldn't have made a difference if I only drove the Z to work every once in a while - still could have happened just the same. From your sig you probably also have done the F54 in the 240, and well, you know just how good that feels... I only just finished break-in, hadn't driven it since December on a regular basis and can't get enough of it now... I'm sure you can imagine... It's time like this when I wish that Mulholland didn't stop at Topanga Canyon and went all the way to Griffith Park - probably a longer drive but so much more entertaining than the 101/134... Anyways I pulled the bumper off last night, and it's waiting to be picked up by the driver from "The Bumper Shop"... we'll see what they say when they get it back at their place... Yeah the lower valance panel is dented underneath where the bumper used to be but in the grand scheme of things it really isn't THAT dramatic... sure a panel which was once flawless now has a dent in it but not too bad... it never was a trailer queen anyways... battle scars or something like that... -e

Hey Ed, Where did you find those guys? I just called them and they're totally cool... heck had I called 10min earlier one of their drivers who is on his way back from Ventura could have stopped at my work here in Thousand Oaks and picked up the bumper right now... As things stand they are picking it up tomorrow from home and will call with an estimate... wow so far so good... -e

MrV this is MrE - thanks for the offer on the loaner bumper... I am going to try to fix mine... I'm sure someone at the Fuddrucker's car show tonight will recommend a place to go to... I can always go to Z Corral w/o bumpers... or do the bandaid thing as I wrote above... I think I'll do that... Hey MrProxlamus©, go to www.jeffludes.com for more amazing car photography by the same guy that shot my Z.... He's real good.... -e

Guys, Thanks for the kind words... I know I know I came out real lucky, especially considering two cars were probably totalled last night... I shouldn't really be complaining... but it's a week before I get on the plane to get married and I only come back the day before I drive up to Monterey for Historics and the Z Corral... So basically if I am going to get it fixed for the Z Corral that only leaves this coming week - seems like a stretch to me... I guess I could always show up at the Z Corral with some first aid bandages taped to the rear bumper and go for the comic award... It's the timing that bums me out most of all... oh well... Does anyone have any recommendations as far as LosAngeles based re-chromers? I'll hit the local weekly 50s/60s americana car show today in Pasadena and go ask the guys with the big Mercurys, Fords, etc where they go... -e

That's pretty smart using a cheap arse shower curtain for material.... Clever people on this forum I must admit... -e

3 miles from home, just now, coming back from work. It was bumper to bumper traffic but somehow the guy who caused all of this must have been going pretty fast (I don't know how...) His Civic totalled itself into the back of an older Jeep Cherokee which is probably also going to the crusher after this which then hit a Cutlass which then hit me... Thank god for the Cutlass' ultra soft shocks, cause just before he hit me he must obviously have slammed his brakes cause his nose dove down and basically only wrecked my rear bumper and slightly pushed in the lower valance behind it... The japanese tail lights I brought back two years ago were spared... no buckling in the C pillar... phew I got lucky here folks.... I thought I had heard a rumour these Japanese/Euro bumpers were NLA - is that true or not? Obviously I can't call any shops tonight, wondering if someone here knows.... -e

That large plastic sheet behind the doorpanel which is meant to keep water away... Any recommendations on a particular replacement material before I go down to Home Depot and fish around for something that will work... I am trying to think where I could find rolls of the stuff and what it's "normal" use would be... -e

If anyone's got the mikuni manual handy there's a formula in there where based on combustion chamber volume,etc etc it outputs I believe a good ballpark jet size to start from for a given engine configuration... -e

Hey Victor There's another place you can try too - get a new shipment roughly every month - it's where i found mine... SoCal Alteration (or Alta for short) run by some Japanese kids in Temple City, almost exactly at the corner of Valley and Temple City Blvd -e

Hmm... ok... I'll spend some more time on them this weekend and report back... Victor that picture you posted leads me to another question, in the exploded view check out part #85 which is listed as "Cooling Body Assembly"... What is that? Mine came with it, I've got nozzles plugged off because I didn't know what they were... but "cooling assembly"???? For cooling the fuel in the bowl because the carb sits above the header??? What would one route through there to cool the fuel??? -e

Yes of course I realize that... I was just stating that I've got the PHH setup as indicated by the factory manual and wondering out loud HOW to adjust airflow on a carb which doesn't really have many provisions for adjustment... know what I mean?

Hi all, Did you see how MSA now has a kit they want to sell for $$$ which allows the use of those 84-5 300zx VENTED front rotors on the front of our Z with the use of some 4piston caliper... Well, see how their kit includes a spacer to go between the disc and hub... I've included a pic here... Has anyone found this spacer elsewhere, like if someone wanted to get JUST the spacer and not pay MSA the $600 for the whole kit.... Ever since I saw that red Gnose on the lift at StarRoad in Japan (see pics in my gallery) with the Z32 calipers and vented front rotors I've been looking to do the same... -e

So I finally got my own synchrometer (SKtype) and after having warmed up the engine and disconnected the throttle arms from the throttle shafts I took some baseline readings... The gauge on the synchrometer goes from 0 to 30. Both barrels on the first carb (the one closest to the front of the car) showed a value of 6 on the gauge, while the remaining four barrels on the other two carbs all registered at 3.25 to 3.5 The synchrometer manual/leaflet indicated that before any tuning could be done all carbs need to be within one gradation of one another... Obviously this is not the case here... On the other hand though my stock NGK BP6ES plugs look fine, I've got an O2 sensor plumbed just rearward of the header collector which is showing barely a tick over stoichometric so that's good too... Am getting great power and torque and even better MPG on the freeway... The Mikunis don't have that many adjustment features unlike Weber DCOEs for example and all three carbs have their idle mixture adjustment screws set at 2.5 turns out from seated as indicated in the Mikuni manual. So what can I adjust? Where would this discrepancy come from? Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks all & it's good to be back - yeah! -e

Hi all, I'm still reeling... pardon me. So I just finished my first full tank after the initial approximate 500mile break-in period of my F54 L28 with early E88 and larger N42 valves. On 12 gallons I managed 246miles... Granted 75% of the driving was on the freeway at a constant 70-80mph but NEVER did I expect to be getting slightly over 20MPG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have an O2 sensor plumbed in the exhaust just beyond the header collector and it shows barely a tick over stoichiometric, I've checked the plugs and they look fine too... Wow... It appears to be running just fine, feels plenty more torquey than before - love it! Even more impressive is that my tired matching # L24 was getting at the most 15mpg on a good day with the wind in it's back... -e

BleachZee & Garrett, Would either of you be willing to photocopy the pages relating to assembly & dis-assembly of the early ZX T5 for me? I could easily send you paypal or money order for the cost of the copies and mailing... Garrett, Would you be willing to lend me the tool you fab'ed once you're done with it? Thanks all, -e

So while under the Z this weekend I realized one of the front swaybar mounting holes is stripped... Since the threads are inside the front frame rail does anyone have any advice how I am going to get in there and fix it??? Any and all advice will be appreciated greatly... Thanks all, -e

Me too actually! I've been given a ZX 5spd (it's printed "T5" on the inside of the bellhousing"... the only thing wrong with it apparently is a messed up reverse... I've rebuilt plenty of FWD trannies before but this will be the first RWD one... Is the ZX factory manual sufficient or is there an additional tranny-specific manual available?? -e

So I struggled with it some more this weekend and basically because of how the top baffle plate is cut out to allow for the oil pickup you will not get the pan on without dropping the tranny if the engine is still in the car... Of course if you're doing this on an engine already out of the car and on a stand then there's no problem... (Something I was never told when purchasing it...) Anyways after a lot of work I did get it on but I thought I should let you all know in case someone else was thinking it would be a quick install... Oh and it now holds about 7qts when filled to the "H" mark on the dipstick... -e