EricB

So after the discussion we had here about swapping in an L28 LR160 alternator in order to do away with the 240Z voltage regulator I went to Zhome as instructed and followed the instructions word for word. THey are in short: Get LR160 (mine is off of an '81 280ZX) Get matching (longer) fan/alt belt Unplug v.regulator On the engine wire harness side of the v.regulator connector connect: _ the white wire to the yellow wire _ the black/white to the white/black _ and don't do anything with the remaining black wire. _ it didn't say anything about the condenser that was grounded with one of the v.reg mounting 10mm bolts so I left there - still grounded. reconnect the wires that go to the alternator as per normal, ie: _white/red goes to "A" ("BAT" terminal) _ black (ground) goes to "B" terminal along with the condenser that was there to begin with. I started the car and checked that voltage was not in excess of 15.0V and everything appeared fine... BUT: So what's my problem? I turn the key to the off position but the car continues running!! What did I do wrong?

yes the battery hold down is a classy one isn't it... hahha... thanks carl for the link i'll do the digging. and keith, no the car never had AC to my knowledge... i am looking for an exact match (wire color-wise) for it in the wiring diagram of the nissan '73 240z service manual - i'll let you know what it is.... BTW i found no mention of a seatbelt warning system relay in the above mentionned nissan service manual.... -e

First, yes my 240 is indeed a '73. Now, along the lines of what Carl said in the above reply, when I picked up my '81 F54 (only 75K miles!) from the local junkyard I also grabbed its nearly new alternator. When I do the swap to L28 power how do I need to modify my wiring to take the newer alternator (do I just unplug the voltage regulator? I doubt it is that simple) - or would it be simpler to just keep using my L24 alternator with the new engine? About the fuel vapor connecting to the crankcase item, other than having to deall with more second hand vapors what's the matter with removing it altogether? I can't connect its top portion up to an airbox as I've got Weber triples... Thanks again! -e

Morning everybody, Have you noticed that if you don't know what something is called you are faced with leafing through hundreds of pages of service manual in hops of finding a drawing of the part you want to know more about.... I need some help as I'm unsure what these items are. I am looking to doing some cleanup in the engine bay and moving things around - thus the question.... the top is a vent which connects the block with ??? I don't think it's ever been correctly connected - I know i am getting fumes from it but otherwise is it hampering anything else?? the middle is on the firewall between what once was my heater hoses and the stock battery location. what's it called, what's it for? the bottom is the voltage regulator I think - is that right? What purpose does the small cylindrical resistor grounded next to it serve? Thanks and sorry for the (dumb?) questions... -e

thanks keith...

i should perhaps mention the pulley bolt i am trying to remove is on an '81 F54 L28 (if that matters) At the same time can someone give me a torque spec for that bolt once I am put it back on? Thanks again. -e

25 is too small, 32 is too big, and of course as of right now I don't have anything in between. So tell me what size I should get from Sears when I go there in a little bit. Thanks, -e

btw i too have a vertical grid defroster rear hatch glass available for sale. pics are available. -e

i've seen what is recommended by the factory to restore or fill the gaps present in defroster lines, but does anyone know what the OEM ones are made of or how they are applied to the glass? -e

maybe then it's just that on my other cars the headers that were made for them were constructed out of better material.... which is why they never cracked even over the long term (ie 4 years...) ok then i guess i won't wrap this one..... -e

hey.... so much for this ebay header... i am so amazed at how it's shattered that i am not even upset about it... it's only 6 months old!!!!!!!!!!!!! anyways.... on all my previous cars with headers i've ALWAYS wrapped the header with ThermoTec header wrap and have never had any problems whatsoever.... ever. And now this.... so I purchased a new 6-1 header from MSA in Orange, CA yesterday and I am going to put that in now.. BUT: Has anyone had a similar cracking problem with an MSA brand header??? I ask because I'd of course like to wrap this one too unless someone tells me otherwise.... Waiting to hear what you all have to say. -e

mark, Availability at Alta changes all the time... there's a new shipment from Japan every month and yes they are all used - so what? it's not like they are scratched up... Anyways I am going there saturday afternoon for some new used tires... fyi. -e

i did a search in the links section but it came up blank... do they have a website?

the 8.5s fit with little to no rolling of the rear fender... when i put the 9s on with the 225 width tires then i did have to go at it in no uncertain terms with the hammer.... heck since i don't plan on running the car ever w/o the overfenders i guess i could even go ahead and cut them up under there for weight savings...

Hi guys! Thanks for the compliments Alfadog... I've had the Z for more than 2yrs and every time I walk out to the garage it still amazes me that I own a Z and that it looks the way it does.... Yeah i've still got quite a bit of work in front of me to get it right but all in due time I guess.... It's been a California car all it's life and yet I still have to replace the floors (the passenger side si actually quite pressing) and I should also say that it basically has no shocks any more.... But aside from that I love it to pieces... TO answer your question I originally got 15x8 front and 15x8.5 from Alta and when some months later a pair of 15x9s showed up I traded in the 8 so now it's 8.5 front with 205/55 and 9 rear with 225/50... The 9s are definitely TypeB, the fronts could be either - I am not quite sure... Option Video (yes the Japanese company) filmed the first USA Drift event near me a couple weeks ago - I attended as a spectator only and found one guy with a Corolla who had two 15x8 TypeRs on the back of his Corolla - wow... never thought I'd see them stateside.... (A Type-R wat will have very simply an upper case "R" stamped next to the three duck logo....) -e

watanabe rs-8 comes in four basic varieties: type A (normal, little to no lip - like the ones you see for sale for corolla ae86's) type B - lotsa lip - look at Alan's (HS30-H) photo gallery of vintage Japanese 240ZR's - or on my photo gallery of all the old Skyline GT-Rs I've got pictured there type R - hold on for this one: not Aluminum alloy but straight magnesium - LIGHT and EXPENSIVE and then there's the 2piece variety that I am really not so fond of... (there's a pair on ebay right now, keyword to search for is watanabe)... yuck "Black Racing" a japanese rim company makes knock offs of Wats so make sure you are getting the right item... Black Racing logo is simply BR inside of an ellipse... Watanabe logo is three little ducks in side view where one is above the other two... kind of like a pyramid, yes? Most often they come in gunmetal, but I've seen them in shiny balck, gold, and bare Al (not polished)... The lips are usually pretty smooth but the 8 wheels spokes usually have a pretty rough casting - this is totally normal.... Rough Japanese retail on some 15x8 or 15x9s NEW is roundabout $350-500 each for the Al alloy variety... I won't even bother to quote you a price on the Mg ones... about a year ago, because i was at my old apt where i only had dialup internet access i missed out (didn't refresh fast enough) on a set of 15x10 front and 15x12 rear typeBs that were coming off of a Japanese Z based in Alaska... and they sold for guess how much? $750.- .... I still haven't swallowed that bitter pill..... -e -e

i don't but they should show up on 411 information.... SoCal ALteration or try Alta Wheel Shop, for the city I guess you could try Temple City - they are ON Valley near where it intersects with Temple City BLvd, not the other way around.... DOn't bother going there before say noon on a weekday.... I THINK they are closed on mondays but open the rest of the week. -e

SoCalAlteration = Alta of Japan... On the corner of Valley & Temple City Blvd Owner's name is Ken (Japanese guy with the primer black Z) It's where my wats came from FYI.... Good people.. Shipments once a month (I forget which day of the month the new batch arrives..)

duh! kudos to who can guess driver/car & what the relation is... easy trivia for a sunday AM... but seriously about my lexan question? -e