EricB

hi all, i was just at the junkyard where apparently today was "Z rear disc fiesta!" apparently... I came across 4 '79 Z's with rear disc brakes and 2 '82 Z's with rear disc brakes... From my cursory inspection it looks like the spacing for the mounting bolts of the bracket of the rear caliper to the rear hub is the same... BUT the two calipers ('79 vs '82) look very different. Does anyone here have a preference one over the other and why - yes this would be for retrofitting them to my '73 240Z... to be more specific the '79 appears to be a one piece design and it extends much deeper towards the center of the car than its '82 counterpart which has a more modern "2 pieces held together by 2 14mm bolts" look to it... what do you think? Rick (HMS)? 2ManyZs? Alan? -e

Does anyone have any leads on where I might find a manifold and center pull linkage for a set of triple Mikuni 44mm PHH carbs? new or used.... thanks, -e

I'll try it first with a spare '73 tach then the 260Z tach I have.... I asked because I knew someone else with a '72 and the same EI distributor and his tach seems to have issues past 5K rpm... we were wondering if we needed the later 280 tach to work with the EI distrib... guess not.... Thanks again Victor (got the heater control panel off just fine BTW...) -e

Does it follow that if I have the later electrical distributor out of a 79-81 then I need to get a matching tach out of that car and only that car ... and then possibly swap faces to make it look like it belongs? I ask because I have a random spare 260Z tach lying around - can't use that can I? -e

I've looked through both my Datsun '73 service manual as well as the Haynes manual. One refers me back to a supplement specific and separate to the 240Z Hitachi radio while the other says nothing..... I've got 4 wires coming off the radio: blue, white, white/blue, and red/blue with no plug on the end (it was chopped off before i got my hands on it) I want to return it to factory, down to the wiring... I've fished around under the dash and the only plugs that are not hooked up are one on the passenger side next to the antenna switch plug but it has only three wires (blue, white, white/black), and the other is on the driver's side of the center tunnel by where the buzzer is located - it has only two wires leading to it (red, and blue) Is there supposed to be abother plug somewhere with 4 wires that woulkd hook right up to the stock radio? Or is it supposed to be the above three wire plug and a bullet connector for the remaining wire? thanks, -e PS: sorry for being anal... :stupid:

thanks for all the great input!! will do all of this today... -e

oooooh..... a 90° screwdriver, huh? hmmm... well where does one get that from? ok well then let me look at it again with that info.... i got your PM too btw - thanks for the offer to help. Let me see if I can manage it myself first.... -e

I did searches for "removing radio" "removing stereo" and "removing heater (control panel)" and have not turned up anything useful..... I am looking to remove my circa '82 pioneer tape deck for an original Datsun Hitachi AM/FM radio I just got my hands on... I've removed the center console, I've removed the buttons & knobs for the Heater Control, I've removed the face/trim of the Pioneer deck, I've removed the 4 screws that hold the HVAC panel in & have removed the map light... Yet the HAVC panel appears to still be connected to the Heater control unit.... How do I remove them such that I can get better access for removing the junky Pioneer deck?? Would it be helpful if I posted a pic to show how far I've gotten?... Thanks all....

Hi all, As a dish network subscriber & in the spirit of the holidays i guess I just received in the mail 2 coupons to give away. Both are for free equipment (up to 2 receivers for 2 separate rooms in your home), and free professional installation. The fine print reads as follows: must be ordered, installed, and programming activated by 01/31/03 for new, first-time customers only 12mo commitment and minimum qualifying programming of America's Top 50 channels which costs $22/mo - I've got the top 150 which includes speedvision and that costs me $29/mo gift card may also be redeemed for a $50 discount on other dish network offers $240 early cancellation fee First 2 people to email me get them in the mail for free.... let me know... -e

thanks for the side by side pics.... just what i wanted... -e

Can someone please post a pic of them side by side? or give me a lenght and width measurement of the covers as they differ from each other? I just want to put this question to bed in my head once and for all..... what i am trying to see basically is if a r200 diff cover will fit on an r180 diff housing? gracias, -e

What is a normal price for a set of brand new triple Mikuni 44mm with manifold and linkage??? Does anyone know?

I've seen a handful of people both at the classic datsun show and elsewhere who either did not have or did not use the supplied fuel line for their triple set-up. This is the one that looks just about identical to the stock one, ie with the fuel return line..... These people have the fuel coming from the tank to the fuel pressure regulator and then usually via stainless steel lines and AN fittings to the the carbs with no provision for a return. Why? What does this change? nothing I am guessing.... Did they just plug up the return to the gas tank? Am curious to hear what you all have to say... -e

Biker, What was wrong with your friend's hubs? what was it about them that made changing them necessary? how did he come to the realization that the hub themselves were giving him the problems? -e

I, like many of you, have a front end which so far has resisted any attempt that I have made to stop it from vibrating at speed. I've had the wheels balanced twice, I've put in the MSA T/C kit, I've changed my steering rack bushings to urethane, I've made sure the hub bearing castle nut was tightened to the proper torque specs..... I've got a feeling my hub bearings themselves are to blame. My spare parts Z had 4 brand new hub bearings in the glove box which if they do fit the Z I'd like to use. Problem is they are not in Nissan packaging, they are as follows: One in a Beck/Arnley Worldparts box labeled 051-3160 - inside is a NTN brand made in Japan bearing One in a Koyo Seiko Co. Ltd box labeled 60-702 and then RLS10 BS. it also has a part number which looks very Nissan-ish: 43210-E4100 Two in a SKF Made in Germany box labeled 60-900 followed by a Nissan-ish 40210-8500 Does any one happen to have dimensions of the correct bearings for the front of the Z that I could use to check out if the 4 I have are of any value to me? A longshot I know, but I thought I'd ask since money is tight right now.... -e

I've got a set of the shortened Nissan Comp steering knuckles which I've been meaning to put it. At the same time I figured it would be a good idea to change the ball joints too, so I went to Nissan to ask about pricing and availability.... $120ish EACH ball joint?!?!?!?!?!?! Is this a joke? I remember ball joints costing in the $30 range from my Honda days, so how can Nissan expect to charge an extra $100 for basically the same part? Advice? Different source to get them from? Any advice would be appreciated... -e