EricB

I took out my 3.36 over the weekend to temporarily put in a 4.11 while I finish rebuilding my 4.40. Obviously the speedo which was suprisingly accurate is no way off. I know I can get an adapter gear to screw on the tranny where the speedo cable plugs in. But where do I get this? Don't have Motorsport's catalog in front of me but do they have that too??? -e

Thanks very much... I got it - makes sense to me now... back to the hammer... -e

clarification: the lock pin we are talking about needs to be pulled down - towards the ground - to come out of what I called the double ended threaded bolt with 17mm nuts. Right? it doesn't look like it can be hammered straight up as I don't think the hole it goes into goes all the way through that part of the rear hub... So up or down? Gracìas, -e

All bolts come out fine EXCEPT one. On rear lower control arm, at the rear hub end (not the diff end - makes sense?) the control arm is helding in by a large bolt threaded at both ends (has 17mm nuts on either end, see what I am talking about?) - this large double ended bolt is held in place in the rear hub from sliding around by a smaller (vertically positioned) bolt with a 12mm nut on it. It is this small securing bolt that I can't get off. Sure the 12mm nut comes off easily enough but then what? I've sprayed liquid wrench in there, lightly tapped it, tapped the larger 17mm double ended bolt from side to side to try to dislodge the smaller one... all for nothing... advice? hints? tips? I want to remove the rear lower control arms so that I can swap out the bushings on them.... thanks a mil, -e

John, Can I thank you too???? Those are exactly the questions I was just going to pose to the club. And you've answered them all. Cool! -e

Hi... I'm one of the new guys.... Here's my story.... I had (and dearly miss) a 1990 Honda CR-X that I built to SCCA IT specs, but never campaigned it - it was my "canyons" car. Had to put it up for sale when tuition came due some time ago because of a **** up w/ financial aid. I currently own an ex-Regional Champ SCCA GT-4 1973 Honda Civic that I've restored outside & in to showroom beauty. Its lovely little engine I also rebuilt keeping the Dellorto's and motorcycle pistons (12:1 CR) firmly in place. I just got rid of the salvaged early '73 240Z I posted about last week. I daily drive my late 73 240Z since last summer. Every day I still find myself wondering how I managed to finally own a 240..... puts a smile on my face every time. 27yo. French/Swiss/American citizenship. Speak French/ English/ German/ Japanese/ Spanish/ & mere morsels of Italian. 2 Bachelors & 1 minor from UCDavis. Currently studying Transportation Design at ArtCenter College of Design (have completed 5/8) and am toying with idea of transferring to CCS in Detroit (the other big US school). SCCA member since 97. NASA member / scrutineer / timing & scoring worker. All-around (single) car guy currently residing in Pasadena, CA. -e

Hey Alan, If you are on this website, well I just randomly got these pics fwd'ed to me from a friend of your FP autox Z and... wow that's one bad arse lookin car... Hey who needs B-pillars anyways.... Can I get a ride? Provided you even have a pass seat left? -e

Thanks to the both of you. I am staring at both right now and differences do seem really slight - if at all..... -e

I was surfing some fellow 240Z owner's rides on the net, and found a couple that mentionned explicitly that they were using N36 manifolds with their original SUs. What's the big deal? Do these flow better? Thanks and Good Morning too BTW, -e

Awesome Royce.. That's exactly what I was after. Much appreciated. -e

Yeah Royce, That would be great... chances are it's just a relatively well tuned L24 compared to mine which I know must have either bad valve seat on #3 or bad rings there.... but you never know this salvaged car had money spent on it once in the past seeing the goodies I have found on it so far. -e

The salvaged car I am taking parts from felt relatively quick when I last drove it and i wonder if the camshaft in there is OEM or aftermarket. I come from the Honda world originally (oh the shock and the horror!!) and there at least there does exist a series of casting marks on the camshafts to help ID them. Did Nissan or the aftermarket companies do the same for our 240z's? Is there anything I can look for short of putting next to another cam to figure out what it is? Thanks again. -e

I read SWM's article regarding the cylinder head removal and I do own a 10mm allen wrench socket but it seemed to fit a bit loose in all the head bolts I tried... Granted there was still a bit of oil left inside them as I hadn't completely cleaned them out yet.... but it did make me wonder if the next size up wouldn't be better suited.... of course i found no 11mm allen wrench socket at the local hardware store.... now my head bolts don't look like they are stripped or "opened up" too much... has anyone else experienced this? Thanks, -e

Thanks Pete... I am back off to the carport, tools in hand. -e

I just spent all day pulling off 72 SUs & E88 cylinder head off my parts car, then doing water pump+fan belt+spark plugs+condenser+cap+rotor on my car.Now after all this I realize I forgot to mark my distributor cap with the numbers of the spark plug wires.... I know the firing order from the Haynes manual, but nowhere do I see any indication as to which post corresponds to #1 cylinder. Can someone help me please? THanks. -e