71ZZZZZ

What sized pipe do you have coming in from the collector? Seems like it would be a little small...have you asked a local muffler shop what they could do for you?

Just PM'd you...

Hey Panamared... Do you happen to have a closeup pic of how the headlight case fastens on the inside of the fender? I'm in reassembly with mine and am having fitment problems with the bolts I think are supposed to fit that area, thanks... (dig your handle... )

OK, I'm really confused now, the parts CD and one figure in the Service Manual show a bolt/lock washer/washer fastening the bucket from the inside by the hinge, but a closeup pic show a hex bolt with a flange...anyone have a pic of theirs? These are fiberglass buckets so I don't want to overtighten them...

OK, I have the fender/headlight bolts/nuts all sorted out. I need a confirmation on the bolts/washers that fasten the headlight buckets from the inside of the nose of the hood where the hinge is. I don't have enough clearance to close the hood with a flat and lock washer on the bolt...thanks.

Here's another site/store near you: http://www.classicdatsun.com/ Les does some amazing work, restorations and customizations. Might be fun to check out what he has on the rotisserie but call first to see if he can accomodate you...

The parts that are throwing me are the mounting screws or bolts that connect the fiberglass headlight bucket to the turnsignal panels...there's a screw and clip assembly there now but I don't remember if that's stock...thanks.

You da man E...really appreciate your input. Gonna post in the inner fender seal thread of my experience with that joy...BTW can the headlamp bucket, fender be removed w/o removing the hood? The fender didn't seem that heavy so I think I can handle it myself...(I have to make some adjustments now that I see how it's all put together...) :beard:

Hey Will, Got the windows out without a problem. One thing I would add it that once the screws are out and the seals have released grip, pull the bottom frame piece straight down. Gotta take time to work the old seals loose. The little corner moulding will bend if pulled at an angle. Do I have to apply sealer at the back joint where the rubber sits beneath the corner moulding, there was some there. Also found some rust inside the frame, will have to wire bush that out and prime it before the window goes back in. I'll contact you for the payment on the screws....

OK deeply into the reassembly now and this is where the collective will really help. I have a box of bolts/screw/lock washers and little by little they're going back on the car but not necessary exactly where they came from. I don't have detailed pictures for these. The parts CD pictures can only show location, the detail is too low res. Can anyone describe or show me a picture in your gallery of the following: Headlight bucket mounting lock washer/washer. I think the nut is an M5 pitch .8 Fender mounting bolts/washers. Hood bumper/screws that sit in the channel of the fender. Headlight assembly mounting screws/lock washers. Turnsignal panels, they attach to the bottom of the headlight bucket with clips and screws, and front of fender with bolts I have several washers that are flat on one "edge" do you know where they are used. There will be more but this list will get me started, I want to make sure the front end is put back together tight. Thanks as always.

Hey Zak, Thanks for the support...it LIVES!!! Got 'er started up yesterday and it really took a worry off my mind...I forgot that after sitting so long the carbs/head gets dry...after a few almost starts, I remembered the primer trick, a few teaspoons directly into the carbs and it roared to life...I had redone the pipes in the first wave and forgot how nice the note was...totally reaffirmed my direction so on it goes...gotta get the carbs rebuilt this week. Spent some time today finishing sealing off the fenders. I'll post in that thread later...I appreciate your sentiments, step at a time...I just can't fade now, that's been part of the problem over the years...but now that I can actually see the end results it's moving me along. I had the strangest reaction yesterday/today of not being able to relate to the car that's before me now. I had gotten used to every rust spot, ding, dent, hole...now that they're not there it's a different experience. I can see the lines really well now...what a fine piece of automotive body design, it really has stood the test of time. Being a perfectionist in recovery, it's hard to pickup the pieces not having been directly involved in the teardown of the front end/bumpers. But as you said it's a simple car...I just am amazed at the choices of fasteners it some places and postioning of seals...some very weak points but I digress...I just have to let go of the fact that if you don't do it yourself you won't have it "perfect"....

(dupe post...ignore)

From what I've read, you would have to reinforce the metal areas that the tension/compression bars mount to. The diagonal rods that connect the front suspension to the body. You would probably also have to get some strut tower braces to stiffen the front part of the body but also one for the rear towers as well. Depending on the engine weight you may have to fool with different front/rear spring ratios to balance out the car. The Hybriders on HybridZ are all over this concept and can point you in the right direction should you choose this route. If you want a daily driver but also a track machine you may have to make compromises. Not trying to dim your enthusiasm but reliable daily driving and track cornering are two opposing purposes and your setup would be different for each...just encouraging you to explore all aspects of the Z before you throw down your $$$...it can be done, just plan your attack, there are many who have been down this path and can save you money and headaches...have fun at the WCN!

When I was thinking about this for my Z, I would have used theirs switching/timer as an override to the stock switch. You might drop them a line and tell them what you have in mind. If you're defroster grid circuit is working they might be able to mod up for you to use with it...good luck with it...

Hey New-to-240Z... Sounds like you got a good one...if you really want to catch a brainful, you should check out the West Coast Nationals in two weeks in Anaheim, hosted by Motorsports Auto. Check out their site. (I can't make it this year as I just got my car back from paint/body and it is not driveable yet.) This will give you an amazing look at what's possible with Zs. As a counterpoint, if you are concerned about structural soundness, putting that much horsepower in the stock Z body may not be a safe thing. You will have to reinforce many areas on the body to withstand the increase in torque...also changing the engine will set forth a chain of mods that you need to be aware of before you start. Ignition, transmission, suspension, wheels/tires/brakes, etc. Do alot of research, there are many who hybrid their Zs with great success, just be informed. Like beandip said: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php? Welcome and buckle up, you're in for a fun ride! :beard:

This is a great thread, often thought about this if we should ever make the trek back East or if I ever wanted to tour the West Coast. What about a spare alternator? I more concerned about some of the electro/mechanical parts like water pump and alternator, they seem to be a weak point in the stock Z...good luck with the trip...hmmm a travelogue would be cool...drive safely!

Give Mike McGinnis @ Banzai Motorworks a call: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ He knows his Zs and has just about everything you'll need (I think he may have participated in the Nissan refurb program but I might not be remembering that correctly). I'm in a similar situation and about to sent in an order for a bunch of rubber parts...

Augghh, flatbed dropped off my ride this morning, spent the last little while taking inventory of stuff in the cabin. I really applaud you guys who do all your stuff yourself. Continuity is a really important thing in this process. I now have to plug back into the flow and am a bit down...is the hassle gonna be worth it?...yes of course (it HAS to be), it's just a little hard to see the forrest for the trees...more story and pics to follow...

I forgot that I had found this site. OEM look replacement defroster grids... http://www.frostfighter.com/ff_pdt_2600.htm BTW, my tint guy kept the grid on, he was just thrown off by the amount of storage crud that had accumulated on the window... :beard:

His point was that they were rusted and would affect the adhesion of the tint...I'll talk with him today...I'd like to keep them on as a stock feature of the car, it doesn't work but it was never a priority to get fixed. I have tint over a grid on on another car and it's held up well over 10 years...

I'm tinting the hatch and rear quarter windows. The tint guy needs to scrape the defroster grid because it's rusty. Living in SoCal rear hatch window fogging is not a common thing. If I do remove it, I'll have to remove/replace the tint if I ever want something like it back...any sources for modern defroster grid replacements...?

Hey Guys, As far as I know the interior connections to/from the fuse box are still intact. The dash is still installed and connected to the main harness. I seem to recall a thread sometime back about the car not starting if the tach and/or ammeter was unplugged. All gauges are still connected. Battery has been on trickle charge since yesterday...gonna be a big Z weekend. Excited/apprehensive and anticpating spousal resistance but "...at least I'm finally getting rid of that stack of parts..Hon'..." Wish me luck... :beard:

Will...you're great, thanks for the support man, got your PM, I think I will go for the screws as you discussed. Gotta run to the tinter right now, I'll be in touch... I missed the flow here...AweZum!!!

Here'z another situation... I need to work on my car this weekend probably on the street in front of the house. The headlights/markers are disconnected from the main harness. All dash connections are in place, will the car start (the car is being towed home)? I just need to be able to move it off the street to beat the parking police... :stupid:

Hey Will, Thanks SO much for posting these pics...I see what I was missing, my problem is two fold. I didn't realize there were two screws under the seal in the back corner and the screws are frozen in the frame from water corrosion. I'm gonna have to put some Liquid Wrench on the screws to loosen them up. I'm about to head over to the tinter to finalize the estimate and get the hatch window done. I'll be contacting you on the screw set, you have enough for both sides? Thanks again man... :beard: