71ZZZZZ

have you checked with www.zbarn.com?

You might try giving the guys at Top End Performance in North Hollywood a call, they are Weber distributors and have a couple of rebuild kits that are correct for this carb set on a Z http://www.racetep.com/rebuildrejet.html ...I'm planning on taking mine in for a rebuild shortly(no time or knowledge to rebuild/jet myself)...I know this carb set doesn't seem to get alot of good press but I've not had any problems with mine over the years...good to see other users... :beard:

Yup those are the drain elbows from the cowl area...I'll have to look at those too, I'm thinking their still solid because I haven't had wet floors in that area over the years...I was speaking of the little rubber flap that's at the bottom of the mudguard, at the rear of the front wheelwells......thanks for the input! :beard:

What type of driving are you gonna be doing on these rims? How did you figure the offsets? Using the 7" width/0 offset as a baseline for the 4-lug z wheel fitment, are you not going to get any tire rubbing issues in the front? Always liked the deep dish look but am little skittish about extreme (+3 and larger) wheel conversions and possible tracking/handling issues..

Augggh...I'm convinced, I gotta do this fix or something similar...I was at the body shop this past weekend looking at my 240's body...I noticed a dried waterline inside the cowl area and checked that at least the rhs drain hole is clogged, there's evidence of a standing pool of water in there for sometime... Rust is showing in spots... Enrique...from your pics I see that you extended the hose from the stock location...did it originally just drain into the area behind the small rubber mudflap? I can't locate that part # in the parts CD (63835-E4100 maybe?)...what did you use to replace the original sealing strips? (63815-E4100 "sealing mud guard")...I'll also search on "fender replacement" threads for more info...as always thanks for your input... :beard:

augh...missed the "parts swap" section..let me look around...need more coffee...sorry for the misplaced post (how can I delete this?)...

I did a search but didn't find a specific answer. I need to replace my hatch and headlight cases for my 4/71 240...is there a reference somewhere that xrefs common parts across Zs? Doing some junkyarding this weekend, the info will help with part location...thankzzz! :beard:

I'm still really puzzled over your car's problem...are there any clunking sounds when your car skips/bounces? I'm thinking something in your main rear suspension is not connected to the body/subframe...

Funny you bring this up...my 240Z is at the body shop now, and I suspect mine is also clogged, there's a tube that exits outside the body in front of the passenger side, thought it was related to my A/C but I think it connects to the main cowl drain outlet, I'm planning to "snake" it from there, access through the cowl may be difficult...maybe slightly different on the 280...need to check this over the weekend..

I just went through some of this, having had KYBs now Tokicos both non-adjustable gas struts...if you're going to stay with stock springs then the KYBs should be fine...if you plan to lower then the Tokicos seem like the better match...I'm running Eibach ProKits/Tokico (blue) and am very happy with the ride performance...

D'oh...didn't see your car in your profile...I guess I should update mine...

Are you referring to the kick panels on either side of the dashboard?

How does the car respond when you press down on either rear corner (while parked)...does it give in easily to the force of your weight? I had a Pontiac back in the day that needed new shocks...it had an uncontrollable bounce to it regardless of road condition...I'm confused by the skipping/sliding comment...are your tires inflated properly?

Thanks, I have a pending item list for them...good to know they have them...

Was the rear susp. ever modified with higher rate springs? It seems that if the struts have failed paired with the stiffer springs might result in this...is it more of a skipping rather than an undulating bounce?

Thanks, I hear you...but I'm thinking the replacement may be the better way to go because of the amount of "pre"-perforation rust forming on the underside of that seam...at least I'll know that the shape/spacing of the seal lip will be factory on the replacement... Thanks for input folks...

It's from this book: It's a very valuable reference, helped my decision process on headers, exhaust, suspension, aero upgrades...

Thanks for the input...I'll talk it over with my paint guy and see what's the best approach...being that he's in the auto body business I'm sure he has contacts that can source parts for him...part of my thinking is to keep as much of the original car intact as feasible, but I've already swapped in a 5-speed trans. and my right rear suspension arm is from a '73...so much for "originality"... :beard:

Good point, this was just the first round of stripping to get the top coats of paint/primer off and the windows out...I'm sure by next visit he'll have a cleaner view of the body and amount of rust there...we looked at it from inside the hatch access holes(covered by the panel) and could see that rust was also on the underside of that seam in picture...would adding in a new piece of sheet metal there be any less strong than an original part?

Greetings...my car is finally at the paint shop and now the real work is beginning...as the old paint layers are being stripped away the areas needing repair are being revealed...I have an section at the bottom of the hatch window that has rusted the lip underneath the rubber seal there. My paint/body guy says he can cut/shape and weld in a new section of metal there or replace the entire hatch itself...not sure yet what the cost differential would be but I'd have to pay for the part (probably from a parts Z)...anyone have to fix this area on their ride? What did you do? As always, thanks for any info... :beard:

Thanks man...I see the rubber hatch plugs, but not the little "buttons" I referred to, I'll drop him a line see if he can source those for me, thanks... Sorry for the misplaced post...it should have been in "Body & Paint"

sorry moved thread to "Body & Paint"

My Z is being stripped to metal, in removing as much small stuff as I could, I had to trash the little rubber buttons that are on either side of the tail gate channels below the hatch bumpers...I can't locate that part in the parts CD diagram of the area...also needing the two rubber plugs on the bottom of the hatch, is this the "grommet" (#71, on page 121 -6)? Thanks for any info... :beard:

Hey Jack, Nice job there...necessity being the mother of invention, I like the placement of the separates, is that mounting plate plastic? How much depth did they take up...? My speakers were placed in the similar location, problem is over time the masonite boards have become deteroriated and are warping in the lower corners..trying to find some info on restoring those...any idea if a DIY'r can form masonite? Our panels are shaped to fit the contour of the doors...BTW do you still have all that audio equip in your ride?

Hey Jackboxxx, Thanks for the PM...my door panels were already cut from a previous stereo install...the head unit was stolen and dash violated but the speaker holes (4.5" drivers) remain...I have some alternatives: buy a new set, mount the speakers in the back, or try something door mounted using my old panels...still looking...there's a guy on HybridZ who might be making fibreglass panels for 240z with 6.5" speaker placements: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105320