Mike B

Yep, that is the problem Arne. Maybe California will host one again some day, but none of the clubs in OR, WA or Vancouver BC appear to be interested. -Mike

Steve, I would have sworn that 904 white always had black interiors as an option, with blue interiors also available on the 1970 and 1971 and red available on the 1972 and 1973 model years. Here is a page from TS71-47, which introduced the 1972 model year. Notice that it only lists one color interior for each exterior color, but it has asterisks for the new colors, so maybe they are just listing the new color combinations for those new colors? The zhome site lists the following references for the information listed: Documentation Of Exterior and Interior Colors Note 1: Factory Service Bulletin, May 1970 Vol. 125 - "Introduction of Datsun 240Z Sports Model S30 Series". Note 2: Factory Service Bulletin, February 1971, Vol. 137 -"Introduction Of Datsun 240Z Sports Model S30 Series (1971 Late Models) Note 3: Factory Service Bulletin, Volume 171 -"Introduction Of Datsun 240Z Model S30 Series (1973 Models) Volume 171 states the following: Please note: The Foreword states that " This Service Bulletin has incorporated only the descriptions and specifications for the modification parts and newly designed mechanism and others, but has not introduced the items continued from the present model vehicle." There is no source listed for the 1972 model year information and the "Note 3" regarding the 1973 information says it "has not introduced the items continued from the present model vehicle." I wonder if that is the same for the 1972 model introduction? -Mike

I remember that car from when it was listed on zcars.com before you bought it. Like you said the original pics didn't show a lot of detail about the condition of the car. I think the salvage title also scared some people away when it was listed by the original owner and will probably affect the value some now. $7k to $10k is probably reasonable depending on how well the repairs were done. Wasn't it originally listed by the original owner for something like $5k to $7K? -Mike

Don't worry Alan, based on the auction results, it appears that there were several people that want to take on that restoration project. Two people were even willing to pay $10k or more for the opportunity. I am not one of them, but I wish them luck. I just hope they are aware of what they are getting into with that car. I agree and I can think of at least one early production car that is definitely not 100% concours correct yet is very much appreciated by the Z community . -Mike

There were a couple of people interested in the car that contacted me, so went to look at it last weekend. I have some pictures I took for them, but I'm not sure if I should post them in this thread. I don't know if the people ended up bidding or not. The seller mentioned he had some people that were very interested and I'll just leave it at that. When I saw the car I knew it was much more of a project than I would personally want to take on. The front end had previous damage (the hood and radiator support weren't correct for an early car). There was quite a bit of rust damage including the battery area and floors, as noted. I think the drivers quarter was replaced at some point. It didn't have the VIN plate on the drivers door side post and didn't even have the holes were it would have been mounted. It was missing most of the early unique parts. It has a horizontal defroster on the hatch glass, instead of the early glass with no defroster. The dash was from a 72 or 73 and most everything in the interior needs to be replaced. I was also very surprised by both the bidding and the reserve. I thought the bidding probably won't go above $5k and I was guessing the seller had the reserve around $10k. It would be very expensive to restore this car with the required body work, missing and damaged parts, and seized engine. The only people interested would be someone that REALLY wanted a low VIN car. Edit - I also wanted to mention that the seller said he had rolled the car out of the garage and taken additional pictures that he was sending bidders that asked for them. I'm not sure what the pictures were of, or how many there were. Hopefully the people that bid it up so high had some more pictures to go by. I personally wouldn't bid any where near that level without more pictures and even then you can get burned. Much better to look at the car in person. -Mike

Like this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-260-280z-NOS-Cam-Oiler-Tube-Oil-Spray-Bar-/140499520549?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b66c8c25 -Mike

Those are interesting Ron. Where would I find them? I'm like Kats in that I really like the look of the headlight covers, but I am hesitant to put holes in my original FRP headlight buckets. If I do decide to mount them I think I will use a spare set of metal headlight buckets. I wouldn't care about putting holes in metal covers and I wouldn't worry about the FRP ones cracking. -Mike

Hi Ron, I meant that I believe they are original OEM Nissan parts and not reproductions. When I bought them I was told they were NOS, but without the boxes or hardware. Since the reproductions also don't come with boxes or hardware, I was always skeptical of that claim. See my earlier post #33. The thing that makes me think they are OEM, now that I see them again, is they have the black foam gasket with the gap that Esprist described as being original as compared to the gray gaskets that he noted the reproductions have. From his post #32... Also, he posted in this other thread about the gap in the gasket on the OEM ones... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=283627&postcount=34 Finally, I am confident the used set I have are original rings, given the circumstances of where I got them, and both sets of rings fit the same and look to be constructed the same, as opposed to the reproduction rings which don't look like they fit correctly where they come together at the front, as shown in this picture from another thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=275419&postcount=25. As for the part number, I don't really know, but the hole location seems to be the same as the ones that are shown in the old US Datsun Competition catalogs. -Mike

I finally got my headlight covers out of storage. Based on the information in other posts, it looks like they are originals after all. I think they are unused, but have some minor shelf wear. The black gaskets don't look like they have been mounted. I don't have the mounting hardware, but that should be pretty easy to recreate. I also have a spare set of the used original trim rings. They both fit the covers the same and look to have the same construction. -Mike

That's funny. I had emailed this guy a few years ago after seeing his car listed on Carl's Zhome registry, since he was located so close to me. I never got a reply. I don't think I am up for another project Z though and I already have my low VIN blue car. Not sure that I buy the "mule" story in the ad: "The car, HLS30-00022, was originall not intended for sale to the general public but rather like the rest of the original 25 cars were intended to be training and sales tools or what is known as "Production mules". that was the fate of this car. It was a mule for the Datsun dealer in Portland Or." -Mike

I'd say it is time for a new (to you) cowl. I'd also check and see what the drainage area looks like under the cowl. -Mike

HLS30.com did a write-up on how to remove the glass from the review mirror a year or two ago http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24194. After it is removed you can get the back side resilvered. I took a couple spares apart a year ago, but haven't gotten around to getting them resilvered and reassembled yet. -Mike

I went back and fixed my post #71 for you Arne . I need to learn that Jedi mind-trick technique... "These are not the wheels you are looking for..." -Mike

Hi Ron, Yes, it is being taped off for spray-on paintable bedliner in the wheel wells and I decided to carry it up on the top of the inner fenders too for additional protection. I debated about whether I wanted anything other than just the primer and paint, since the early cars didn't have much, if any, real undercoating. The bedliner doesn't have a lot of texture, so it won't really be that noticeable after it is painted. I'm not one for changing colors, so I will be staying with the original 904 white, but with a base and clear coat instead of a single stage. White is not my favorite color, but not my least favorite either, so kind of middle of the road for me. After seeing pictures of Diseazed's white 1970 I think it will look similar after it is done (borrowed photo attached below). I plan to put a BRE spook on it and leave it black. There was an original black spook on the car when I got it, so I think it will be nice to put one back on to retain a bit of the car's history. I plan on upgrading this car a bit too, so the spook will be a good addition anyway. I will also put of a set of 15" American Racing LeMans wheels on the car. -Mike

Here are the latest pictures from today. The epoxy primer coat is done on the shell. I am hoping to get the car back by the end of January. -Mike

Carl, The flat one is correct for a 1970. They added the hood on series two cars I think. On the early cars like yours it would have been made of grey plastic too (to match the radio face plate, and heater control panel). -Mike

Here is a set on ebay with a $15 starting bid and no bids yet http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240-280-1971-1972-1973-Hood-Side-Panel-Doors-/320636440977?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aa76bd191. -Mike

Yep, you are right, they are 14". I didn't think to look at the tire. Now that I look at the rim on my desktop computer I can make out the 14 now. Sorry about that. -Mike

Yes, they are 6" width. You measure the width from inner bead to inner bead with the tires off the rim https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html. Those also look like they are stamped 13" (diameter), not 14". -Mike

I'm almost positive that you could use the later style two sided 240z locks on a series one car. Obviously the internals are different, but externally there shouldn't be any differences. The locks for a 260Z or 280Z may have different linkage connections or other differences though. Randy, can you post a picture of what your locks look like? I should be able to take a picture of some series one locks tomorrow for comparison. -Mike

Sorry, I didn't see your question before WingZr0. The little blue insert signs have various service related words that can be combined to advertise certain service promotions. I am attaching a picture I found on the internet of the exact same sign/clock that is at the Datsun Heritage Museum. It is the only other one I have seen. I am also attaching some more dealer sign pictures. The Datsun Leasing sign appears to be the same form as mine, but without the clock and sign inserts. It was sold on ebay with a BIN after someone contacted the seller and got him to end the auction early :mad:. Too bad for the seller. I was going to bid more than he got for it. The other signs are ones I found on the internet. I think they are from Australia. The last picture is another dealer flag I just got. -Mike

Yes, it was interesting to see that the hidden writing survived the liquid stripper. I can't take any credit for the body and paint work. My abilities are limited to taking it apart and putting it all back together. I can't wait to see #33 restored, since it is a twin to my #32. Thanks Ron. I think it worked out well to graft it in behind the TC rod mounts. The body guy had to take the different layers apart and then weld them back together. He has the in process pictures on his camera, so I will get them when I get the car back and can post them if people are interested. If I had known I would actually end up using the whole clip I would have been a lot more careful when I cut it off. Fortunately the battery tray on #210 was in great shape. That area was totally rusted through on the donor car. -Mike

After evaluating the condition of the front end, we discovered more damage than originally expected due to to the collision that caused the car to be parked in the mid 80's. The passenger side front rail and inner fender were also damaged in a prior collision and not repaired well. I had kept the front clip from another early car that I parted a few years ago, so we decided to use it to replace the entire front end on the car. Here are some pictures of the front end mocked up for fit. Everything, including the NOS fenders and doors, lined up great. The last few pictures are with it all welded back together now. He's still cleaning up the engine bay and it needs a little more minor body work, but hopefully it will ready for primer before too long. -Mike

Jim Frederick sells repro sets of the rubber fuel/brake line blocks. Email him at jim240z@aol.com. -Mike

I doubt it based on his comment above. I have a set of used red plastic panels and vinyl in storage, but I would rather sell them as a set or at least all the panels together. PM me if you are interested. -Mike