Mike B

Here is another thread that I think provides some more insight into the Nissan design philosophy in the late 1960's when the S30 was being developed http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35384 -Mike

So, did anyone actually go to this DHM event? -Mike

It's referred to as a drip rail. If you search for that you will find more information. Here is a good thread with a diagram http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24727. I use a rubber mallet and some nylon pry bars http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-95214.html to get the end loose. -Mike

Greg, I think you are confusing me with Mike Gholson, the site owner (user ID Mike). I get that a lot. Anyway, it looks like Mike Gholson hasn't logged into the site in over a month. Maybe Arne or another moderator can help? -Mike

Congrats to Jim and to the prior owner Gab, who totally restored the car before he sold it http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32495&highlight=%2348. -Mike

I think this sentence also fits that description: There has been quite a bit of debate regarding that on this site. You can search and find numerous threads, but you might want to start with this one: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36319 -Mike

I agree it is the last resort, which is why I mentioned the mallet method first. I think it is safe to say that with three broken head bolts he is going to be headed to the machine shop anyway at this point. I guess the other option is just to leave the head on and take the whole engine to them and let them deal with it. I was worried about using a putty knife to get my aluminum diff cover off too, but it worked out fine, so I think it can be done as long as you are careful. -Mike

Sure, anything is savable with enough money, but I think the pictures don't show the full extent of the work needed on this one. I think Alan or anyone else would have done much better to buy the Fairlady in Texas that was the original subject of this thread for $5,500. It looks like that one is sold now. -Mike

Check with Les at classicdatsun.com and Eiji at Datsun Spirit (email eiji@datsunspirit.com). If your vinyl is in good shape other than the fading you may also consider using SEM plastic paint/dye or something similar for it if you can find a good color match. Your plastic panels are probably also faded. I also have a white interior on one of my cars and had some faded vinyl spots and the plastic panels professionally done and you can't tell the difference from the rest of the interior. -Mike

I saw the ad, but can't recall the exact price. I think it was a couple hundred dollars, however, it wasn't in perfect condition. It had a damaged spot around the speedo/tach area and it looked cracked on the side. Not sure if that would show or not. If you want to sell your dash you should list it in the classified ads section on this site and be sure to list what year car it is from. -Mike

It sounds like the head may be stuck to the head gasket. That's not unusual. I have been able to get stuck heads off by hitting the sides of the head with a heavy rubber mallet, but you may need to use a thin putty knife to help break it loose. I had a stuck differential cover recently and used this putty knife set from Harbor Freight and they worked great http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-stainless-steel-putty-knife-set-94325.html. -Mike

Looks like Derek has these for sale on ebay now http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-Kick-Panel-Speaker-Mounts-/250729035948?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a609d78ac. After following the links in the ebay ad to the HybridZ "build thread", it also looks like you save $15 by getting them directly http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96446-kick-panel-speaker-mounts-now-available/. -Mike

There is another Fairlady on ebay now http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-Fairlady-DATSUN-FAIRLADY-Z-240Z-RIGHT-HAND-DRIVE-JAPAN-VERSION-/360320455399?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item53e4c5d2e7#v4-39. Unfortunately, it looks like it was just left outside in PA with no hatch glass, so probably just a parts car at this point. Hopefully the reserve isn't set too high. -Mike

Good to hear that you have cut back on the late night cheese Alan. If you take another look at my post #335 I hope you will see that I was providing your old post as support for the fact that clear glass was standard equipment on the S-30S at least initially. Kats had stated that all S30s except the Z-432R (including the S30-S base model) had tinted glass. -Mike

Hi Kats, That is great. Now you need to figure out how to provide a link to a sound file for us . It is interesting that the 1/10 scale version only references the Skyline GT-R and all of the writing is in English. -Mike

It would appear so. That's interesting. -Mike

Hi Kats, In a thread from a couple years ago Alan noted that the S-30S also had all clear glass as standard equipment http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=236873&postcount=9. Is that not correct? -Mike

Yes, there are many versions of Shelby caps. Here are some pictures from the 1972 Shelby Wheels catalog and one picture from a later Carroll Shelby Wheels catalog (early 80's I think?). I found some NOS cast metal caps to use on my Shelby Vipers (Libre style). -Mike

I found this NOS roof skin on craigslist a couple of months ago. -Mike

You might want to keep it. You or a future owner may want it at some point in the future. If it is in really nice condition it is worth more than an a emblem and a dome light, so hopefully you ask for more than that in trade or just sell it yourself and buy what you need. -Mike

It's also listed on ebay now http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110609832767&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT. There are a lot more pictures on the selling dealer's site http://www.platinumautos.com/new_inventory.html. I'm sure it is nice, but I don't think it is $20k nice. For that money, I'd rather have the yellow 71 (also from Seattle) that sold recently for about the same price. I don't know a lot about 280's but it looks like there are a couple of tears on the drivers seat, aftermarket radio, faded rear carpet, speakers added to the front of the rear deck, some marks on the hood that the seller doesn't mention. The engine bay doesn't really look super clean either. Supposedly the tires are original, but I don't know that I would believe a small dealership like that to know what original 280z tires were. -Mike

That's a fair question I guess. I plan to keep my HLS30-00032 car completely stock, and since it is such a low VIN I don't really drive it much, after getting it repainted last year. However, I also want at least one car that I can drive and enjoy. I plan to sell my 1972 at some point, so I am leaving that one as is. That leaves my other two 1969 cars, which I plan to restore and upgrade with modifications that can be completely reversed with no damage. For starters, I want five speed transmissions in both, so I obtained two of the early Type-A 5 speeds that many of the other markets received as standard equipment for 1970 and 71 model years. That way I won't have to cut the transmission tunnels or make some funky bent shifter to use and it's completely reversible. After that, I want to have a 3.9 ratio diff to use with the 5 speeds. Any of the R-180/R-190/R-200 differential upgrades can be completely reversed, so I was open to whatever I could find, with a preference for LSDs if I could get them for reasonable prices. I found a rebuilt 3.9 ratio R-190 LSD a year or two ago, so I plan to use that in one car. A couple of months ago I found a 3.9 JDM R180 with an open differential so I got that to use on the other car. Then a couple of weeks ago I found someone local that was about to scrap a 280z that had been left outside for 10 years with a leaking sunroof, etc. It had this Nissan Comp R-200 4.375 LSD so I bought it thinking I would either use it instead of the open R-180 (if I can swap it to a 3.9) or I would sell it. Like I mentioned, I am leaning towards trying to use it now. I have some other period correct reversible mods planned for both cars too, but I'll leave that as a surprise for now. -Mike

I was finally able to get this cover off last weekend. I bought a set of putty knives from Harbor Freight that have metal ends so you can hit them with a hammer http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-stainless-steel-putty-knife-set-94325.html. There is a hole at the top left corner that I was able to use to insert the edge of the knife and then then tap with the hammer to get through the seal (circled in red in the first picture). This cover was really on there tight and there is no way it would have come off without a putty knife, so thanks for the tips Geezer and RIP260Z. It looks like the gear ratio is 4.375. I may see if I can get a 3.90 ring and pinion to put in it. I was also able to get a Mallory Unilite and an early Nisan 2400 OHC valve cover from the same car for another $100 . -Mike

Just for clarification that is HLS30-00231 and it has been listed on ebay and discussed here a few times. Here are a couple of old threads: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37252 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39866 -Mike

Those are great close up shots of the #11 car Alan. Thanks for posting them. -Mike