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Mike B
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Everything posted by Mike B
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MSA has been selling them for awhile, both on their site and on ebay. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SIC01D04/40-3419 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Chrome-Dash-End-Vents-Z-240Z-510-New_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem439ddecdc0QQitemZ290411433408QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories -Mike
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BRE has several nice posters http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=B&Category_Code=art_sub_bredatsun_posters. Other than that you just have to keep an eye out on Ebay, CL, etc., but the vintage ones are hard to find. -Mike
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BRE has just made a reproduction of this 1970 National Championship poster. They also have a limited edition of 46 signed by both Brock and Morton. I have been waiting for a reproduction of this one. http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=bre2_postr_zbartellonmetal&Category_Code=art_sub_bredatsun_posters They have also made a reproduction of the one that Carl posted a picture of in post #52 above. It is currently for sale on ebay through a reseller, but should be available on the BRE site soon. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-1st-2nd-3rd-place-at-1970-ARRC-Car-Poster_W0QQitemZ380212733729QQcmdZViewItemQQptZApparel_Merchandise?hash=item588671e721. BRE also has reproduction 510 and 1969 roadster posters on their site now too. http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=bre2_postr_510transam&Category_Code=art_sub_bredatsun_posters http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=bre2_postr_orngroadster&Category_Code=art_sub_bredatsun_posters -Mike
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The easiest way to get those security screws out is by notching them with a dremel first (make sure you were goggles). Then you can just remove them with a flat blade screwdriver. -Mike
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Registration for Datsun Driving Canby Fun 2010 (Oregon) is now open.
Mike B replied to Jcoop's topic in United States
I think I will, if I go at all. I always buy a T-shirt anyway, so $15 for that, plus another $5 to get into the side area is only $10 less than the judged show (which comes with a T-shirt). Now I just have to decide if I will go or not. I plan to go to ZCon in Nashville, and may go to the Mitty in April. If I go to both I will probably skip Canby this year. I wish I was able to take my blue car to Zcon, but I need to be back at work the Monday after the show (which is on the weekend this year), so no time to drive back. -Mike -
Registration for Datsun Driving Canby Fun 2010 (Oregon) is now open.
Mike B replied to Jcoop's topic in United States
Are you entering the show this year Dave? After Arne's stolen gas door knob last year I'm considering it just to have my car in a more attended area. -Mike -
Man, the spreadsheet is really a mess now. It may be too far gone to save if there isn't a decent backup copy somewhere. Too bad that getting added to the Zhome info appears to be hit or miss. I have also tried to get my cars added a few times to no avail, so I have just given up on it. -Mike
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Rick, it's a 1972 with an L28 in it now, so it is not going to be a numbers matching car anymore. However, it sounds like it that isn't important to him and it is the drivetrain he is looking for. -Mike
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Hopefully it will have more Datsuns than the NW Nissans meet in Issaquah yesterday. I think there were a total of five S30s there and two of those were Dave and Tyler's. It was really more of a general tuner/import turn out. Probably only about 10-20% of the cars were Nissans and the majority of them were 240sx or Z32s. This El 240sx (or was it a 240sx del Sol?) was one of my favorites. -Mike
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I hate to say it, but I don't think there is anyway to get the original look you want (real cadmium plating) using zinc and yellow chromate. That has been my concern all along about using these home plating kits, the parts just come out looking yellow/gold in my opinion. I am holding out until I can find a place that does true cadmium plating so I can send all my parts out to have them done in one batch. There have been discussions about cadmium plating in the past. Here is a comment from Carl Beck that summarizes it pretty well http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=168664&postcount=11. Eastwood sells a three step paint kit that is supposed to give a cad look to parts. Maybe you could try to add the red and green highlights from that kit, but I'm not sure how that would look or hold up http://www.eastwood.com/golden-cad-kit.html. -Mike
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It this the one you are looking for? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CARROLL-SHELBY-WHEEL-CENTER-CAP-SMALL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad046e95fQQitemZ390041364831QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories -Mike
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Randy, If you are looking for a reproduction of the early plastic fuel door knob, contact Bryan at winkaslink@yahoo.com. Bryan made the repro knobs and he may still have a few left. They don't come with the chromed potmetal base though, so you will still need to source one of those (the early and later knobs both use the same base). -Mike
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Here are some pictures of other old posters that someone sent me. He sold the posters long ago. Notice the original red paint scheme on the Bob Sharp 240z in the middle picture. -Mike
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I thought it would be nice to have one thread show original vintage posters. Here are a couple I have. I plan to get the East African Safari Rally and the Frisselle posters framed. -Mike
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Well, Brad Frisselle's IMSA Z car was sold a couple of years ago. They were asking $275k for it, but I am not sure if it sold for that. http://www.canepa.com/inventory/racecar/240z.html -Mike
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I just left the plastic base and shift pattern on, since I was afraid I would do more damage trying to remove them. I taped the wood and shift pattern with several layers of blue painters masking tape, and stripped the remaining chrome off with muriatic acid. You have to find a place that can chrome plastic. The guy that did mine is no longer in business. After it came back from being chromed, I had to use a tap to clean out the plating that got attached to the threads inside the knob. I re-stained the knob and put a clear polyurethane coating on it. Here are some pictures before (first three pics) and after. -Mike
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Randy, I think both Kats and Esprist have both made reproduction hoses using this method. In this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34094 Kats said he used Nissan fuel hose, but not specifically which one. They seem to be running them with no problems and it seems like it would probably be ok as long you are use copper tubing inside. However, I am no expert and haven't tried it myself, so I am not making any recommendations on this yet. -Mike Actually, Kats mentions in another linked thread that he used Nissan hose #17239-E4600.
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Arne, I think people are using copper tubing, not wire, inside of the 'replica' hoses, so I would image that would keep them from collapsing, but I haven't tried it myself. I suppose that could also reduce the air volume, so I am not sure if that is a problem or not. I think the set on ebay Randy is referring to is this one that Jim Frederick is selling http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280464739462&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT. He seems to be listing quite of few different replica hoses on ebay recently. They look like they are just cut down from longer stock hoses, maybe fuel hose or something else? -Mike
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Will hasn't even been on the site for the last two months, so I wouldn't hold my breath on reproductions of anything anytime soon. It was almost a year ago that I took an original early seat guard and a couple of other parts down to the Amelia Island show for Will to make molds. It sounds like he is busy with Larry's car and probably other things in life as well. -Mike
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Classic Datsun Motorsports sells the correct orange color spray paint for $28. -Mike
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I have two sets of the 15" RE960AS that I got last year, but I haven't put many miles on them. Also, my cars are stock, so probably not the best platform to compare high performance tires. -Mike