Mike B

If it really has a BRE built engine that would be worth keeping. Do you have any documentation of this? What BRE parts does it have? -Mike

There are three braided hoses that mount at the top of the gas tank (I circled them in different colors in the attached picture). One is at the front of the right side (green circle), one at the back of the right side (red circle) and one at the back of the left side (blue circle). If the leak is near the filler area and only leaks when it is completely full, I think it would be the hose that mounts at the front of the right side of the tank (green circle). I had a small leak in this area on my 72 recently, so I pulled the tank and repainted it and sealed it while I had it out. The hose was split near where it attaches to the tank. I would bet yours has the same problem. -Mike

I did a search for "gas fumes" and it gave me the link I originally posted. I guess the search results don't stay active for very long, but if you do a similar search you will find lots of information about this. Like others have said, it may be a cracked hose or air gaps that you need to seal up. -Mike

Try the search function. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?searchid=744663 This has been covered many times before and there are lots of different suggestions.

Arne's right. That's why there are separate stainless trim pieces for the top corners, but not the bottom. -Mike

Bet you didn't know that Jimmy Neutron had a 510 either, but apparently he is selling it . http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=300313792291

Thanks for the input guys. The tanks are sealed now. There was plenty of the sealant for both. Just have to wait for the rest of it to drain out now. -Mike

I need some quick opinions about sealing my gas tanks. I had to replace a hose on my 72 240Z, so I pulled the tank this weekend. The exterior was ok, but needed a repaint after 40 years to look as good as the rest of the car. I had also already pulled the tank from HLS30-00210 since it had been sitting for 15 years and wanted to check it before restarting the car. It was in similar shape. I decided to paint the exterior of both with POR-15 products, which I did yesterday and they both look great now. The interiors of the tanks looked excellent with just a few minor spots of very light surface rust. I have a can of POR-15 fuel tank sealer and thought I may as well treat the inside of the tanks since I have them out. I cleaned the tanks with Marine Clean and Metal Ready and dried them out over the past two days, so they are 100% dry now. Today will be the last day of warm weather for a week or so, and the sealer has an ideal temp of 72 degrees. If I am going to seal the tanks I need to do it today, or wait another week, since it will be cooler and raining off and on after today. Should I go ahead and use the POR-15 sealer as a preventative measure since I already have it ready to go? If the tanks lasted almost 40 years they will probably last at least another 40 as is. The Metal Ready etches the tank and treated what little surface rust was there, but I have only used it as a prep for further POR-15 products. Would there be any problem using the tanks without sealing them now that they have been treated with Metal Ready? I have a couple of spare tanks from parts cars that I may try to sell at some point. They are not quite as clean as these were, so I could use the sealer and left over POR-15 to seal and coat them. Any opinions on this? -Mike

I agree, I think this is a regular type A four speed. The early 5 speed (FS5C71A) has a different tail housing with a flange that bolts to the drive shaft. Here are a couple of pictures of a NOS one that was for sale in the classifieds recently. -Mike

Actually, the highest offer through eBay was $21,000 on May 13, but that was also declined. -Mike

Anyone else watching the Daytona Coupe auction tonight? It got bid up to $6.8mm, but didn't meet the reserve. They said they were looking for a minimum of $7.8mm all in (including the 6% buyers premium). I wonder if they chose to auction it through Mecum instead of Barrett Jackson because Mecum allows a reserve and Barrett Jackson doesn't? -Mike

Take a look at this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22909. -Mike

I saw Norm at the Datsun show in Vancouver BC last Sept. He sometimes goes to the Canby, OR show, which is next month. If he shows I'll let you know. -Mike

Yes. No, there is no vehicle specific ID number on the transmission, but it should be the correct transmission for the model year. In this case it would be the "type A" four speed. -Mike

I take it you don't have the ID plate that goes on the passenger's side of the engine bay? If not, there is no way to identify the exact engine that goes with the car, but it would probably be in the 2600-2800 range.

Costs to transport from FL to GA shouldn't be too bad. You could even drive down and pick it up.

Yep, it has http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32582. Its called "flip this car". -Mike

Nate, post some pictures of the engine bay and the exterior of the car to get a better evaluation of the car. From what I can see in these pictures though, it looks really rough and even with it being a low VIN, it may be better to sell what you can off this one and find a better project Z to start with. Some of the unique early parts may have some value, even if they are not in the best of shape (like the spare tire, heater control panel, etc) so don't throw anything out just yet. There is an early plastic map light cover on the floor of the passenger side. You should pick that up and put it away before it gets broken. -Mike

I agree. I just checked two of my cars and they both have the grill mounted in the upper hole. There is a nut welded on the back of the upper hole, but not on the lower hole. What does yours look like Zed? -Mike

Your center valance looks like it is mounted way too high in the middle. Can you post a picture of the center mounting bracket and the center bracket on the valance? Maybe the mounting bracket was bent out of the way to mount the old spoiler?

I was wondering the same thing Arne. I agree though, it does look factory. -Mike

Ron, after seeing your diagram above, hearing that these were used on triples, and taking another look at your pictures, I think I have a better understanding of what they are now. They look like 1973 fuel rails with a third line added on top for the triples. -Mike

I'll be there again. Not sure which car I will bring yet, but I am leaning toward the 72. -Mike

Looking at the engine number info in the zhome.com registry it appears that engine 15980 would be from a car produced around 10/70 and engine 22622 would be from a car produced around 12/70. Its interesting that relatively early cars would both have the vapor lock kit installed. It looks like the cut and modified the top fuel line before it got to the rear block and cutoff the 2nd from the last bracket for some reason.

Someone mentioned to me that there is also another version of the fuel rail that has a 180 loop that joins the two lines at the back end instead of the square block. I think I have seen that too on a few cars, but I'm not sure which model or years. Does anyone know more about this? I also noted that Kats' 3/70 cars has the type 1 that I listed above (1969 to early 1970). -Mike