Mike B

John, I am not a locksmith, but I think there is still some confusion here. Series one cars have two separate and very different single sided keys: one for the ignition and one for the doors, hatch and glove box (let's just call it a door key now for simplicity). The keys have different groove profiles (keyways) so you can not get a series one ignition keyed to match a series one door key. That is why series one cars have two different key codes, one for the ignition and one for the doors. The ignition key is made of steel and for the US market they were all the VOSS type (see the first picture below). There were four different door key blanks (see the next four pictures below). Cars would randomly get a one of the four types of door keys when they were built. The groove profiles are different so they are not interchangable. The ignition key is also about 1/4" longer than the door keys. Series two cars have one double sided key that works the ignition and all the other locks on the car. There are two types of series two key blanks (a left and a right groove pattern). Like the four types of series one door blanks, they are not interchangeable. What type of ignition do you have now? Single sided or double sided? If you get a used series one ignition you will still have a separate ignition key whether you get it keyed to your original ignition code or not. That is how they came from the factory. -Mike

Motorsport Auto also sells replacement floors http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SBC1B10. I have heard that their "Premium" floors are the same ones sold by Charlie. Those floors (sold by Charlie and MSA's premium floors) are the most accurate replacements and the ones everyone recommends as being the best. The frame rails that come with these kits are only the parts under the floor pan on back. They don't include the front of the frame rails. It looks like Bad Dog does sell this piece though. I think A7DZ made a similar repair to his car when he restored it. There are several posts on his restoration work, so search for that. -Mike

I think he was referring to how it is done on a Chevy V8. -Mike

I thought the BRE spook was the Canadian snow plow . -Mike

61" L x 16" W x 4.5" H w/o guards or 7.5" H w/ guards mounted. Approx 12 lbs with guards, rubber strips and mounting brackets attached. -Mike

Wouldn't the answer to that be no then, since he has a series 1 car? It has a much different ignition key from the key that is used on the other locks on the car. Are you saying the series 1 ignition can be rekeyed to work on the series 1 key that operates the door and hatch locks? Maybe John can chime in and clarify exactly what he is asking. -Mike

John asked if a locksmith could rekey a series 1 ignition to match the original key code. I assume this means he doesn't have the original ignition key, just the code from his glove box or owners manual. Even if he has an original key, I would think it would depend on how worn that key is. Similar to making a duplicate key by copying an old one vs making one from a code. Many original keys are pretty worn and if I were going to have a have a lock rekeyed I would want it based on a fresh key made to code, rather than a worn original. At least the original Nissan series 1 ignition keys are steel, so they don't wear as much as the other original keys, which are I believe are made of brass. Since the series one ignitions have a separate key with a different code than the rest of the car, what is the benefit of getting it rekeyed any way? So that it matches the code on the glove box and owners manual? -Mike

Yes, that is what I meant. I went to three locksmiths that couldn't cut a 240z key by code. They could only duplicate one that was already cut. I'm sure the same would apply to rekeying an ignition. I called around until I found a locksmith that specialized in older locks. Yes, but a locksmith has to know how to interpret the codes to shape a key or change the lock so that the new key will work with it. -Mike

Yes, a good locksmith can rekey an ignition. The problem can be finding one that still has the old Datsun key codes. I had to look around a bit before I found one. -Mike

$500 plus shipping seems high to me for a zx five speed. I'm sure you could find one locally for less. There are always lots of them on craigslist, at least in my area. Since you are in CA, I'm sure it would be relatively easy to find one locally. I think $130 to ship a transmission is about the going rate if it is long distance. If you get a four speed from a 73 you will have the same fitment issue as a 280z or zx 5 spd. If you want to go with a direct plug and play four speed you would need a Type A, like Arne has (and his is a known good one). If you want a five speed you will have to custom bend a shifter or modify the trans tunnel and console. Your choice. -Mike

Actually, I think that was 26thZ, not me. I haven't priced getting any hubcaps rechromed yet. -Mike

Luv24ds, how can you tell if it is still available on the Courtesy site? I thought that just meant it was just a valid part number? -Mike

62650-E4101 Assy-Front Bumper to 5/70 62650-E4102 Assy-Front Bumper (with rubber hole) 6/70 to ???? 62650-E4103 Assy-Front Bumper (less rubber hole) 6/70 to ???? 62650-N3300 Assy-Front Bumper - USA 7/72 to ???? 62650-N3301 Assy-Front Bumper - Canada 7/72 to ???? These are from the March 1974 US and Canada parts catalog. The top of the page says up to 7/73, but the "up to" applied dates are blank for the bumpers after 5/70. I would doubt that the dealer still has NOS bumpers available. I got a NOS early front bumper from Rod's Datsuns at the Canby show last year. He said he had gotten the last four in stock a couple of years ago. -Mike

I don't know the seller, but here are two more uncracked dashes from 72 240Zs (with all gauges and wiring) in the Seattle area. The seller wants $400 each. http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/1013592531.html -Mike

There is a center attachment brace that it welded to the lower radiator support frame. -Mike

Those are the same panels that MSA has sold before and the ones that people charge twice as much for on ebay. I think they may be left overs from the Z program cars. I got a set from MSA about 2 yrs ago and they said that they had been getting them from Nissan Canada until they ran out and then had to get them from Japan. They didn't have any colors other than black. It seems like they only made a batch of black ones for the program cars, probably to save on costs, because most cars have a black interior, so not much of a demand for the colored panels. Marty - I have a NOS blue passenger side panel, but not a drivers side side. I was hoping to get a 903 blue car with a blue interior someday, but then I ended up buying #32, which is a 903 blue car with black interior. I wouldn't want to change the interior on such an early car, so I will sell off the blue pieces I collected at some point. -Mike

Yep, that is the same person that did Larry's top notch restoration in this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=32275. The seat covers are not correct for a 240z. At least one of the door panels is broken, and looks to have some other damage at the top. It looks like he used the blue paint he includes to paint the door panels. Probably the seat covers too, since I don't think they make these later covers in blue. I am sure there are other undisclosed items defects that someone will only discover after the fact. -Mike

I just came across a TV show called "Chasing Classic Cars" on a Discovery HD Channel. Here is a link to a website with some information about it http://turbo.discovery.com/chasing-classic-cars/chasing-classic-cars.html. Kind of an interesting show. It is a series about a classic car dealer in Connecticut (F40 Motorsports http://www.f40.com/index.php). Anyway, I watched my first two episodes tonight and saw an early Z car in both! The first was in an episode about a very early porsche 911 (VIN #724) in So Cal. They show a clip of the guy driving to the "cars and coffee" meeting in an old Ferrari and a 240Z pulls up fast on his right, so of course he steps on it to keep up with the Z. The second episode was about an old Morgan roadster that he takes to Lime Rock raceway. They show some old period racing photos of Lime Rock and one of them has a Bob Sharp Racing Z in the photo. He also mentions that was where Paul Newman started racing, but no mention of Bob Sharp. -Mike

Here is the picture Bob. You are correct though, white with tan was not a stock combination. Only #907 green came with the tan as an interior option in 1970, so I would bet that the exterior color has been changed. -Mike

"#497 out of #500 ever made before production " Well.....not quite. It does like pretty good in one picture from 10 feet away. Wonder what the rest of it looks like up close. -Mike

Yes, that grommet is on the wiring for the windshield wiper motor. I think Banzai is the only place I have seen with a reproductiion. I haven't compared them to see how similar they are. I would guess that you would need to slit the grommet to get it over the wiring. To remove the cowl or you remove the six or so small screws at the front edge of the cowl (maybe the two hood bumpers too) and slide the cowl forward. There are several tabs on the back of the cowl that secure it. -Mike

Well, for $20 a set you can't go wrong. Thanks for the clarification. I knew they were used on at least some of the 280Zs, but wasn't sure if it was every year or not. -Mike

Arne is right, they were all one color of grey originally. The paint that Les at Classic Datsun sells is supposed to be a correct match. I have also seen someone use off the shelf Graphite color rattlecan paint that matched pretty well. Make sure you have a good look at the backs of any you consider buying as they tend to rust easily. Also take a good look at the chrome on the front for pits. These caps were used from 1972 through 1978 so they are a lot more common than the earlier D caps. -Mike

I don't think the original strapping under the seats was black. I think the early straps (before they went to springs) were all a beige rubber material with some green material on some of the ends. The rubber material is usually melted for some reason. Someone told me it was a chemical reaction, not sure if that is true of not. I think the straps were fairly tight initially, but loosened up over time (if not completely seperated) due to the melting issue and streching from being used. -Mike